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We'll see about that.
You should run to mommy and complain about me.
You should run to mommy and complain about me.
89 VW Cabriolet 8 Valve Oil Light
- Thread starter StevieC
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stevie have you been over to the vwvortex.com forums ? lots of good vw information over there, a number of years ago i bought my daughter a 97 vw jetta and that site has been very helpful keeping it running well.
duaneb9729, Much appreciated... I will check it out!
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Here is a reprint on testing the switches which you may have already tried:
DYNAMIC OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEM
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated rpm, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.
The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
CAUTION: If the warning indicator stays on after the engine is started, or flashes on while driving, always assume that there is insufficient oil pressure. Check oil level and test oil pressure before proceeding with tests of the warning system.
Checking Low Oil Pressure Warning System
With the ignition off, the low pressure (0.3 bar) switch is closed (complete circuit to ground). When the ignition is turned on, the indicator flashes (no oil pressure). When the engine is started and oil pressure rises, it opens the switch (opening the ground circuit), and the indicator goes out. With insufficient oil pressure or a stuck switch, the indicator will continue to flash. The switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, simulate a closed switch by removing the blue/black wire and grounding it. With the ignition on, the indicator should flash. If not, the problem is in the circuit or the indicator. If the indicator flashes only when tested in this way, replace the switch.
If the indicator flashes with the engine running, and the oil pressure tests OK, remove the blue/black wire from the switch with the engine running. The indicator should go out. If not, the circuit is shorted to ground between the wire and indicator. If the indicator does go out, the switch is stuck closed and should be replaced.
Checking Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System (high rpm)
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 rpm (ignition distributor input to control unit), oil pressure closes the switch (completing the circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound. The pressure switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, raise the engine speed above 2000 rpm and disconnect the yellow wire from the switch. The indicator should flash and the buzzer should sound. If the wire is connected to ground, the warning should stop. Disconnect the wire from ground and connect it to the switch. If the indicator does not go out, replace the switch.
Testing Oil Pressure Switches
The oil pressure at which the pressure switches react can be tested by temporarily installing an oil pressure gauge in parallel with the switch with a T-fitting and monitoring switch performance with a multimeter or test light
DYNAMIC OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEM
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated rpm, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.
The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
CAUTION: If the warning indicator stays on after the engine is started, or flashes on while driving, always assume that there is insufficient oil pressure. Check oil level and test oil pressure before proceeding with tests of the warning system.
Checking Low Oil Pressure Warning System
With the ignition off, the low pressure (0.3 bar) switch is closed (complete circuit to ground). When the ignition is turned on, the indicator flashes (no oil pressure). When the engine is started and oil pressure rises, it opens the switch (opening the ground circuit), and the indicator goes out. With insufficient oil pressure or a stuck switch, the indicator will continue to flash. The switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, simulate a closed switch by removing the blue/black wire and grounding it. With the ignition on, the indicator should flash. If not, the problem is in the circuit or the indicator. If the indicator flashes only when tested in this way, replace the switch.
If the indicator flashes with the engine running, and the oil pressure tests OK, remove the blue/black wire from the switch with the engine running. The indicator should go out. If not, the circuit is shorted to ground between the wire and indicator. If the indicator does go out, the switch is stuck closed and should be replaced.
Checking Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System (high rpm)
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 rpm (ignition distributor input to control unit), oil pressure closes the switch (completing the circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound. The pressure switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, raise the engine speed above 2000 rpm and disconnect the yellow wire from the switch. The indicator should flash and the buzzer should sound. If the wire is connected to ground, the warning should stop. Disconnect the wire from ground and connect it to the switch. If the indicator does not go out, replace the switch.
Testing Oil Pressure Switches
The oil pressure at which the pressure switches react can be tested by temporarily installing an oil pressure gauge in parallel with the switch with a T-fitting and monitoring switch performance with a multimeter or test light
I put him on my ignore list because I can't be bothered with such childishness. Thanks for letting me know.
Originally Posted By: FowVay
Here is a reprint on testing the switches which you may have already tried:
DYNAMIC OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEM
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated rpm, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.
The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
CAUTION: If the warning indicator stays on after the engine is started, or flashes on while driving, always assume that there is insufficient oil pressure. Check oil level and test oil pressure before proceeding with tests of the warning system.
Checking Low Oil Pressure Warning System
With the ignition off, the low pressure (0.3 bar) switch is closed (complete circuit to ground). When the ignition is turned on, the indicator flashes (no oil pressure). When the engine is started and oil pressure rises, it opens the switch (opening the ground circuit), and the indicator goes out. With insufficient oil pressure or a stuck switch, the indicator will continue to flash. The switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, simulate a closed switch by removing the blue/black wire and grounding it. With the ignition on, the indicator should flash. If not, the problem is in the circuit or the indicator. If the indicator flashes only when tested in this way, replace the switch.
If the indicator flashes with the engine running, and the oil pressure tests OK, remove the blue/black wire from the switch with the engine running. The indicator should go out. If not, the circuit is shorted to ground between the wire and indicator. If the indicator does go out, the switch is stuck closed and should be replaced.
Checking Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System (high rpm)
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 rpm (ignition distributor input to control unit), oil pressure closes the switch (completing the circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound. The pressure switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, raise the engine speed above 2000 rpm and disconnect the yellow wire from the switch. The indicator should flash and the buzzer should sound. If the wire is connected to ground, the warning should stop. Disconnect the wire from ground and connect it to the switch. If the indicator does not go out, replace the switch.
Testing Oil Pressure Switches
The oil pressure at which the pressure switches react can be tested by temporarily installing an oil pressure gauge in parallel with the switch with a T-fitting and monitoring switch performance with a multimeter or test light
Thanks... I have the 1.8 bar with Electric Warning system. I have already tested all the circuits and switches as well as the oil pump with a 2.0 heavy duty version with 6mm bigger gears. I have also replaced all the switches and the pressure gauge so I know I'm getting an accurate reading.
With 2 Bars showing on the gauge and confirmed with a manual gauge hooked up near the oil filter for testing purposes, i'm not worried about it.
Just wanted to know if its a common problem as the engine ages or just a poor design etc..
Thanks for that info though... Great reading!
Here is a reprint on testing the switches which you may have already tried:
DYNAMIC OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEM
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated rpm, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.
The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
CAUTION: If the warning indicator stays on after the engine is started, or flashes on while driving, always assume that there is insufficient oil pressure. Check oil level and test oil pressure before proceeding with tests of the warning system.
Checking Low Oil Pressure Warning System
With the ignition off, the low pressure (0.3 bar) switch is closed (complete circuit to ground). When the ignition is turned on, the indicator flashes (no oil pressure). When the engine is started and oil pressure rises, it opens the switch (opening the ground circuit), and the indicator goes out. With insufficient oil pressure or a stuck switch, the indicator will continue to flash. The switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, simulate a closed switch by removing the blue/black wire and grounding it. With the ignition on, the indicator should flash. If not, the problem is in the circuit or the indicator. If the indicator flashes only when tested in this way, replace the switch.
If the indicator flashes with the engine running, and the oil pressure tests OK, remove the blue/black wire from the switch with the engine running. The indicator should go out. If not, the circuit is shorted to ground between the wire and indicator. If the indicator does go out, the switch is stuck closed and should be replaced.
Checking Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System (high rpm)
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 rpm (ignition distributor input to control unit), oil pressure closes the switch (completing the circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound. The pressure switch opens and closes at specific pressures.
To quick-check the pressure switch, raise the engine speed above 2000 rpm and disconnect the yellow wire from the switch. The indicator should flash and the buzzer should sound. If the wire is connected to ground, the warning should stop. Disconnect the wire from ground and connect it to the switch. If the indicator does not go out, replace the switch.
Testing Oil Pressure Switches
The oil pressure at which the pressure switches react can be tested by temporarily installing an oil pressure gauge in parallel with the switch with a T-fitting and monitoring switch performance with a multimeter or test light
Thanks... I have the 1.8 bar with Electric Warning system. I have already tested all the circuits and switches as well as the oil pump with a 2.0 heavy duty version with 6mm bigger gears. I have also replaced all the switches and the pressure gauge so I know I'm getting an accurate reading.
With 2 Bars showing on the gauge and confirmed with a manual gauge hooked up near the oil filter for testing purposes, i'm not worried about it.
Just wanted to know if its a common problem as the engine ages or just a poor design etc..
Thanks for that info though... Great reading!
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- Jun 2, 2002
- Messages
- 4,202
I once had a old A1 chassis VW Rabbit with a 1.6 liter diesel engine. The vacuum pump on this engine was located where a distributor would have been on the gasoline engine. The oil pump was attached to the vacuum pump via a shaft which was driven off of the crankshaft. Over time the slotted coupling where the two shafts met had gotten wallowed out of correct size and allowed for excessive slop between the oil pump and vacuum pump while the engine was running. This caused a intermittent warning buzzer from the low oil pressure warning circuit.
It is possible that your oil pump drive is worn also. Of course, this is only a idea. I have no knowledge of the design of the 1989 model which I am presuming to be a 1.8 liter engine. The newer models drive the oil pump with either a chain or directly attached to the end of the crankshaft.
Let us know what you figure out.
It is possible that your oil pump drive is worn also. Of course, this is only a idea. I have no knowledge of the design of the 1989 model which I am presuming to be a 1.8 liter engine. The newer models drive the oil pump with either a chain or directly attached to the end of the crankshaft.
Let us know what you figure out.
FowVay. It has a shaft which runs from into the pump assembly. When I replaced the pump I also replaced the shaft as it is all one piece...
Thanks though...
Thanks though...
Steve,
I had a 1985 Golf with the 1.8L that once in a while would set off the oil buzzer on a curving exit ramp I used to get home. Especially if I was going fast. It only happened on that exit ramp. Maybe the oil sloshed away from the pickup tube
.
Whimsey
I had a 1985 Golf with the 1.8L that once in a while would set off the oil buzzer on a curving exit ramp I used to get home. Especially if I was going fast. It only happened on that exit ramp. Maybe the oil sloshed away from the pickup tube
Whimsey
Whimsey.. Yeah in later models they put a plastic wing thing on the pickup tube to keep the oil from moving away from the pick-up tube...
I have one of these on it...
I have one of these on it...
Just did an oil change on it, and I'm going to put it away for the Winter as we now have snow on the ground up here... I put Moto-Master (Canadian Tire), 5w50 Synthetic and I now have 1.5 bars of pressure at 100oC at idle. Much much better... Think I will stick with this oil.
StevieC:
I had an '85 that did this as well. I found that if I stuck with heavier oils the problem disappeared. The book recommended 15W40 or SAE 30 or 20W50 for warmer temps if memory serves. That dynamic oil pressure warning system was a real pain because it was too sensitive. The 5W50 should be a good choice IMHO and I'll bet 5W40 would work well too.
Andrew S.
I had an '85 that did this as well. I found that if I stuck with heavier oils the problem disappeared. The book recommended 15W40 or SAE 30 or 20W50 for warmer temps if memory serves. That dynamic oil pressure warning system was a real pain because it was too sensitive. The 5W50 should be a good choice IMHO and I'll bet 5W40 would work well too.
Andrew S.
Yeah the 5w50 works great and I think I'm going to stick with it. Engine turns over much easier in the winter (when I'm running it in storage) with it too. Good to know I'm not the only one with a fussy engine! I love the car
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