Ford ranger transmission problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 10, 2006
Messages
1,027
Location
Charlestown Indiana
I'm hoping that someone can give me some insight on my transmission issue, as I'm not too knowledgeable when it come to automatic transmissions.

Several months ago, I went to stop and the transmission keep pushing as I applied the brakes - I had to brake really hard to get the truck to stop. The transmission had always performed well up to this point. I went to my mechanic and he said it was probably a sticking shift solenoid. Since I was about 2500 miles from my scheduled maintenance, he suggested that I just keep an eye on it and come back if the problem reoccurred. It has started to happen frequently, although not nearly as bad as the first time. It also seems like its not shifting into over-drive. I can get the tach to 6000 rpms (highest number) without the last shift. I also fell a vibration at shift points when the vehicle is cold. After describing this to my mechanic, he said it was probably torque converter "shudder". I have stopped driving the truck, and will get it to him as soon as possible - early to mid week. Any ideas about what problem could be?

I added 6 ounces of Auto Rx, but don't know if I should wait 1000 miles to see if it does the trick.
 
Could be a lot of things including torque converter shudder or the solenoid. How many miles since you last changed the fluid, how many miles on the truck, and what type of fluid do you have in it now?
 
The truck has gotten a flush every 30,000 miles and now has 88600 on the clock, roughly 28600 miles on the fluid. The transmission fluid has alway been Motorcraft Mercon V
 
Could be torque converter related, but sounds more like some kind of electronic issue like the solenoid you mechanic talked about. In any case it's not safe to drive like that so your mechanic is your best bet. Let us know what you find out.
 
I have a much earlier (1991) Ranger with 70k on it. The automatic transmission (A4LD then, I believe 5R55E in yours) can have shift problems. It may be the overdrive band needing adjustment or an internal solenoid or...whatever it is find a really good transmission shop in your area to check it. These are set up to throw codes like the emissions systems do but I don't think they trip the 'check engine' light. The dealer can check the codes for you for about an hour's shop time, then you can decide what to do.

From all I've read, I doubt you need an overhaul but if you do don't let someone replace just the soft parts. There are improvements that can be made internally. Again, I doubt it's in that shape but not shifting to overdrive, from my POV, is not something to delay assessing until next oil change, nor would I let a general mechanic diagnose it. He would mean well, but...


Keep us posted.
 
Sounds torque converter related to me. I had the same problem on an earlier Ranger I was borrowing from someone, turns out it needed a new Torque Converter.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The trans doesn't keep "pushing", the engine does.


That would have been my observation as well.

Even simple stuff like a TP sensor not showing correct voltage at idle will cause the IAC to go full open on decel. A TP sensor can also cause numerous shift problems as well. Not wise to get strictly focused on the trans as the base problem just yet.
 
Originally Posted By: PW01
Would a computer scan reveal these problems?


Yes, it would even if the readings aren't enough to throw a 'check engine' light.

Glad you're going tomorrow; it's probably a simple fix. I've ordered a scanner from Advance Auto to diagnose some fuel injection problems on my Ranger. I decided to do that rather than start throwing parts at it for $50-150 each.
 
Originally Posted By: PW01
Would a computer scan reveal these problems?


Sometimes not. If a TP sensor sends the incorrect voltage, but the voltage is not out of range, then often you won't get a code.
Majority of the time you will get a "TP voltage out of range" or similar code. TP sensors with a separate idle switch usually won't set a code no matter what (not something you have to worry about). Sometimes you need to pull a data stream to actually monitor the TP voltage as you move the throttle through it's range.

Not saying you have a TP problem, just keep an open mind as to causes.
 
A code should be thrown, and a check engine light should be on.
But not always.
Get it scanned for free at Auto Zone or a similar store.
 
Put it on the computer, no codes/lights. Flushed/replaced fluid (Mobil 1 ATF), replaced 2 solenoids (1 shift, can't remember the name of the other), new filter, 2 ounces of torque converter shudder guard. All seems fine now, except I couldn't really test the "passing" gear because it started to sleet.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top