Synthetic For Kohler 20hp V twin?

[Mic]

I have a Toro Grounds Master 120 with a Kohler Command 20hp V-twin. I would like to know which grade of oil would be the best for winter and summer use. With temps in the winter to -30 and to +100 in the summer. Could I use 10W30 year round and get away with it? I use my machine all 4 seasons of the year.

I am thinking of using Mobil 1 Super Syn. I am open to other recommendations for oil.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[edvanp]

I have a 13hp Kohler in a John Deere (7 years old). The man who sold it to me said to use straight 30weight in it, which for the summer, would be great, but being in Michigan, I still run it occassionally to mulch leaves. I didn't think 30w would be a good choice on days when the temps are 30ish. I run full synthetic. I've had 10w30 M1, 5w50 Castrol and this past week I put in some 5w40 Havoline. All have worked great for me and the Deere runs as good today as it did the day I bought it. I hope this helps.

 

[MolaKule]

I currently use the Mobil 1 10W30 year round in Kohlers on Wood Splitters. I do add about 2 oz. of Schaeffer's #132 to the Mobil in summer.

 

[Bror Jace]

Mic, what does your manual say? That's the point to start from. Then, if you feel you have atypical use habits or some other good reason, you might deviate from the manufacturer recommended weight and grade.

Assuming they call for a 30 weight, Mobil 1 10W30 isn't a bad choice. Might be the best for this motor ... hard to say.

But there are other considerations: How hard do you run this motor? Interested in extended drains ... and extended for how long? Is this thing in a heated garage? Etc ...

--- Bror Jace

 

[Mic]

Bror Jace,

WOW! Here it is.

My manual says 10W30.

My dealer said they sometimes run straight 30 year round, they sometimes run 10W40 year round, and they sometimes run 5W30 for the winter.

What are my reason for deviating from the manufacturer recommendations? Call me a rebel.
I just want to know if one oil can do it all for me.

The motor is run full throttle for the 2.5 hours mowing my lawn, 3 to 4 hours for leaf pick up, 2-3 hours for blowing snow.

I am not interested in extended drains.

Drain intervals are currently 50-75 hours.

It is kept in a shed which is not heated.

Jeff

 

[01GTB]

My Kohler owners manuals for my 25,26, and 27 Commands call for a 10W-30 to 0F with 5W-20 or 5W-30 as the alternate below 40F degrees all the way down to -20F where the chart ends. Maybe a 0W-30 would be beneficial to you

 

[TooSlick]

Jeff,

The Mobil 1, 5w-30 is pretty shear stable ...I'd just run that or the Castrol 0w-30 if you can find it.

Ted

 

[Cujet]

M1 10-30 has served me very well. I use it in all climates without any issues. generally, synthetic oil is thinner (than dino oil when very cold) and flows well upon very cold startup.

Even M1 15w-50 flows very well during sub zero starts. Of course that would not be my first choice.

Try putting a couple of different quarts in the freezer, make sure to have it full cold. That should give you a good idea of how well synthetic performs while cold.

Chris

 

[Mic]

Thank's everyone for your recommendations. I am going to use the 10W30 M1 SS.

Jeff

 

[Scooby]

I have a 17.5hp Kohler Command OHV. I changed to Monil 1 10W-30 at 25 hours (Kohler recommended waiting until 50 hours?). It now has 34 hours on it and I have a blue smoke at idle. It doesnt do it at full throttle, just at idle.

I am probably gonna change oils next spring to either Chevron Supreme 10W-30, or Delo 5W or 15W-40. The blue smoke didnt start until after the Mobil 1 change???

 

[Pete591]

I have a 16 HP V-Twin VanGuard (Dhiatsu made in Japan)

It has had mostly M-1 15W-50 Redcap and Goldcap. Blackstone says minimal wear at 350 hrs.

Switched to Motul 15W-50 100% Synthetic and the engine just starts and runs better.

I think 15W-50 is right...10W-30 is too light and 20W-50 too heavy all by personal experience.

My .02

 

[JTK]

Wow Pete! You brought a 5yr/old thread back to life here! Anyhoo.. I'm know 15w50 won't harm a think in this application and probably gives awesome wear #'s for this usage, but why live with any pumping losses associated with a 50wt? You will have power and fuel economy losses. Would you notice them? Probably not. I personally would not go higher than a 40wt in a 'modern' OHV OPE engine. Ideally a 5w40.

Joel

 

[Pete591]

I sent in a sample of Redline 20W-50 that after only 8 hrs on the oil showed it had sheared down to a 40 wt. Not an "emergency" however these V-Twins shear oil alot.Better to have some wiggle room.

I did use Amsoil 0W-40 and it held up but now at the age of 17 years old I went to Motul 15W-50 100% Syn racing and the motor runs best with this oil so far.Near instant starting etc.

I understand the newer tractors with hydrostatic trannys go out the door prefilled with synthetic oil. Some sears units are sealed.

 

[Cujet]

FYI, I have a kawi (FH500V) powered JD tractor. The JD manual specifies 10-30 BUT, oil pressure gets low (5-10PSI) after a hot Florida summer mow of 2 acres. Even with M1 synthetic.

A look in the current Kawasaki service manual shows that I should be using straight 40 oil for my conditions. HMMMM, what a surprise! Some air cooled engines simply get too hot here in South Florida for 10-30.

By the way, a switch to M1 15-50 solved a number of air cooled engine problems I had here at my property. Including generators and waterpumps. (both are constant duty when operated).

Chris

 

[pickled]

Amsoil ASE or ACD for these motors hands down. If you don't want to go that route then a 5W40 (delo, rotella...etc.) will do you well.

 

[Pete591]

I know some guys running a fleet of Dixie Chopper V-Twins that use M-1 15W-50..says so in the manual.

V-Twins like Harley's etc shear oil apart quickly.

10W or 5w-30 for winter.