Amsoil's EaO. Maybe other companies will someday offer a clone.
Whats the best filters now?
- Thread starter bravo2
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Buy what's on sale of the above mentioned. They are all good. Use the savings on your oil purchase, or buy lunch.
We don't have an Amsoil source here, but all the others you mention I agree are good filters. Advance's AAP Totalgrip filter is decent too, as well as easy to install.
Your Amsoil source is on this web site.Quote:
We don't have an Amsoil source here, but all the others you mention I agree are good filters. Advance's AAP Totalgrip filter is decent too, as well as easy to install.
If you can get the Motorcraft filter at Walmart, get it...otherwise, run the Supertech.
Triple_Se7en
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This thread is about Best Filter - not Best Buy!!!!
These two do not quality-compare to filters like Amsoil AEO, Mobil-1, K & N, Wix/Napa Gold.... even a Purolator Pure One.
Supertechs are copies of AC Delco.... Motorcrafts are copies of Purolator Premium Plus - difference-being the Motorcraft has the valve on the threaded-end & the Premium Plus has it opposite end.
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Too bad some of the Amsoil EaO filters put the bypass valve on the wrong end. Amsoil's FL-1A "equivalent", the EaO15, appears to have the bypass on the closed end of the element. Purolator made the same lousy decision on many of the Pure1 filters.
In the case of the EaO15, what would be a top notch, first choice, filter for FL-1A applications becomes just another overpriced filter in my view. Because of the bypass valve location, I won't run a PL30001 or EaO15 when winter temperatures lead to frequent media bypassing.
Though I might run a Pure1 or EaO in the summer when it's warmer, much of the benefit of the costly EaO filter is lost when it's only used 6 months or so.
In the case of the EaO15, what would be a top notch, first choice, filter for FL-1A applications becomes just another overpriced filter in my view. Because of the bypass valve location, I won't run a PL30001 or EaO15 when winter temperatures lead to frequent media bypassing.
Though I might run a Pure1 or EaO in the summer when it's warmer, much of the benefit of the costly EaO filter is lost when it's only used 6 months or so.
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The practice of the threaded end bypass is to prevent suspended abrasives from collecting in the bottom of the filter. Upon cold start, for some unknown reason, Ford engine division engineers fear the bypass opening and allowing this abrasive debris to enter the engine. There's a few flaws in the theory, the biggest one being that millions of other cars have filter with the dome/closed end bypass that show no signs of deleterious effects, and that it would apparently require all filter orientations to have the filter dome end be facing down. The abrasives that were in suspension ...should be identical to the abrasives in the oil anyway. Your pickup draws from the (near) very bottom of the sump where these particles should be drawn from if they do indeed fall out of suspension. That being a sensible notion, then we can suggest that you're passing nothing to the engine that wouldn't be either there already ...or in ample supply in the sump.
There are surely exceptions ..but if your ADBV holds (not all do beyond OEM spec's and FORD surely appears to be ulta-anal about this with the variety of "S" suffixes on their aftermarket MotorCraft filters) ..there should be little reason for the bypass to open unless you're in severe cold or are using a higher viscosity oil (or both). The "fear" is allegedly during the initial filling of the oil gallery where you can get a decent PSID until they are filled. My observations on a non-Ford engine show that this transition is mostly nonexistent. It would be present if Ford designed all of their oil pumps to be in or near relief at all times.
There are surely exceptions ..but if your ADBV holds (not all do beyond OEM spec's and FORD surely appears to be ulta-anal about this with the variety of "S" suffixes on their aftermarket MotorCraft filters) ..there should be little reason for the bypass to open unless you're in severe cold or are using a higher viscosity oil (or both). The "fear" is allegedly during the initial filling of the oil gallery where you can get a decent PSID until they are filled. My observations on a non-Ford engine show that this transition is mostly nonexistent. It would be present if Ford designed all of their oil pumps to be in or near relief at all times.
Heck some of the FORD/MOTORCRAFT filters or their Champ Labs equivalents in use today on todays vehicles don't use the base end bypass either. The ones that had it still do the 910 did not. I would not worry about it. I just switched to EaO96 for my Neon.
Brian,
The Eao filter doesn't spend much of it's life in the bypass mode anyway. I don't see a problem using one on a Ford engine.
Harry
My Wix just did 15000 miles with a 0.2 insoluable count. I used to use Purolator, until I had two leak...plus, theoretically, I like the threaded-end ADBV on the Wix better than the dome end ADBV of the Purolator. I guess the point is, you can go more than 10000 on a WIX, so, you need to be going 20000 on an AmSoil to make it "worth" the extra cost. I might go to AmSoil after I use all my WIX, and I bet the AmSoil will easily go 20000 in my vehicle. I'd back it up with a UOA the first time just to be sure.
No filter spends "much of it's life in the bypass mode", but all oil filters need some form of bypass. Where is the evidence or test data showing EaOs spend any less time in bypass than other filters (assuming neither filter is nearing it's capacity)?
EaOs appear to filter really well, and apparently have significantly more capacity than most competitor's filters which enables them to go much longer before they become clogged and bypass a large amount of the time.
As far as bypass valve location, Every OEM Ford filter and every Motorcraft filter with an internal bypass I've ever seen has had the bypass located on the open end. My OEM Jeep filter had the bypass on the open end. Every Mopar filter for my Jeep that I've seen has had the bypass on the open end. I understand that some Mopar filters have been sourced by Fram and don't have the bypass on the open end, but I've personally never seen one.
It costs more money to put the bypass on the open end. Ford and Chrysler are cheap and wouldn't specify it and pay more for it if they didn't see a benefit. Having worked for one of the big three in the past, I'm certain that they wouldn't pay even a few additional pennies for the open end bypass if there wasn't a benefit that was meaningful.
Having said all that, I used dome end bypass filters (Pure1) on my Jeep for years with no apparent issues. Of course, many folks do the same with Frams with the same results. So the fact that I saw no issues with the dome end bypass filters on my Jeep probably proves nothing (other than the filter you use doesn't matter, or my vehicle didn't see the conditions, for whatever reason, that the OEM Jeep designated open end bypass valve addresses).
I must admit that I like the idea of an oil filter that filters significantly better than what I'm accustomed to. But I have no intentions of using one with the bypass valve on the closed end. I have considered using an EaO on my GM vehicles (engine bypass), but on my old van I simply can't justify (to myself) the EaO's cost, and my truck has a lot of warranty left and I don't want to exceed the OLM intervals for oil and oil filter changes.
Wix and Baldwin I like.
There's something about the little string that goes around the pleats on the Purolators that bug me; I know it doesn't hurt anything, but it still looks tacky none the less.
I meant to say Overpressure relief, not ADBV. Oops.
Triple_Se7en
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There are two grades of Baldwin filters out there. The cheaper ones created alot of start-up noise for me until the engine warmed. Tried three different applications on three different vehicles. Then I took the other five new Baldwins I purchased from that group of eight & tossed them in the garbage.
But yes... the "premium" Baldwin worked well for me on my Colorado 4X4. Will I buy the premiums again... no! It came with a ADBV-attached. My engine has a vertical filter mount & needs no ADBV.
You know I did not know the difference about the Baldwins. I order mine online from THIS GUY for cheap.
I frequented Baldwinfilters.com, but never saw the premium ones shown as different. I don't know why I missed that.I have looked at the construction and Baldwin and Wix are very well made filters. I have had no issues with either so far.
Give me a link to the premium ones. The Baldwin B2 I use has a Anti Drain back valve and bypass valve 8lbs (my tranny filter is horizontal)
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I am in total agreement, why teflon? I've yet to see any and I mean ANY oil out there that uses teflon except one once. teflon is not an additive that is used. what don't you use on pans that has teflon in it? metal. now what is an engine? metal parts. so what would teflon do in a metal engine?
as for filters, I guess if you put junk in your oil, you need a filter. look where I used NO FILTER.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=5&vc=1
you might have to look down the thread a little but I think you'll see, the filter isn't the real thing you need to worry about, it's the oil. I even used oil analysis to show how the oil stood up using filters, no filters, high dollar filters and cheap filters. flow is more important that filtration IMO. remember though if you have a new engine or put junk in your oil, then yes you need a good filter.
bob
as for filters, I guess if you put junk in your oil, you need a filter. look where I used NO FILTER.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=5&vc=1
you might have to look down the thread a little but I think you'll see, the filter isn't the real thing you need to worry about, it's the oil. I even used oil analysis to show how the oil stood up using filters, no filters, high dollar filters and cheap filters. flow is more important that filtration IMO. remember though if you have a new engine or put junk in your oil, then yes you need a good filter.
bob
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