What would an OE (oil expert) do?

[36yrsinTX]

Just looking for informed opinions here:

Vehicle is a 2005 Merc Mariner (=Ford Escape) with the 3.0L V-6. We bought this new, and I've done my own oil changes since the second one (dealer did the first one on a complimentary basis). I've used only MC syn blend (per factory recommendation) 5W20 with a MC filter, OCI @ 5K miles without fail. So far, this engine has performed flawlessly - zero oil consumption, no odd noises, no evidence of sludge.

Driving pattern (this is SWMBO's car and she drives like an 85-year-old - sorry if you've been stuck behind her. . .

) does NOT include any short trips - 40 miles RT minimum on 99% of driving - nor any towing, nor any off-paved-road use. Also, very little start-and-stop driving (we live out in the sticks, and have 45 - 55 mph speed-limit roads to drive) but also not much high-speed driving, either. In short, this vehicle has had a nearly ideal life.

At this point, I don't have any problem, but as the odo approaches the 100K mark - nothing magic about that number, except being 1/2 way to my goal - I have been wondering whether I should switch to some other oil, perhaps a full synthetic or HM type, in order to maximize the life of the engine. I'm hoping for 200K out of it; this trucklet is always garaged and in outstanding condition. Yes, the transmission is a potential weak point on these, but that's a different subject.

So, what do y'all think? Stay the course or make a change? If I have to spend more on a full synthetic, I don't mind if it will result in a better chance of lasting the 200K.

Thanks in advance for your input!

 

[SatinSilver]

Sounds like a winning combo. I go to the Ford dealer for the MC oil and filter on my Toyota Matrix. There was a recent UOA on a Focus that went 10k miles on the stuff with a good report. Keep doing what your doing. I would do some preventative maintenance at this point unless you've already done the basics. Esp a trans flush and maybe all new fluids for that matter. Then all the filters; air, cabin, fuel etc.

 

[dave1251]

No need to change what you have done.

 

[scurvy]

The only "oil experts" you'll find here licensed tribologists. The rest of us are just taking shots in the dark.

That said, there's zero reason to deviate from what you're doing - it appears to be working well for you. You might consider taking an oil sample at 5k and send it off for a UOA if you're interested in extending your oil change intervals. Strictly my opinion but I would be very surprised if you have a lubrication-related failure in the next 100k miles if you keep doing what you've done so far. The car is much more likely to meet its demise from a drunk driver or a tree falling on it during a thunderstorm.

You'd be hard pressed to find a 'better' 5w20 blend than Motorcraft. It performs very well, easy to get and an excellent value. MC oil filters are also well constructed, fairly inexpensive and a great value.

 

[Astro14]

Stay the course. It's been working and she isn't hard on the car...the MC syn blend is a good oil.

Look, everyone talks about the magic 200K...but I got there during the early 80s, driving a 1977 Oldsmobile using SE/SF/SG dino 10W40 (it came in cans...I carried an oil can opener with me)...junk oil by today's standards...

Keep up on the maintenance, do it by the book, and this car will easily get to 200K...the challenge won't be the durability, it will be you getting bored with it...

 

[Jim Allen]

Overall, I say stay the course.

BUT, since you are asking, I think you could probably extend the OC a bit, given you near ideal operating environment. Next OC, I suggest oil analysis to test the condition of the oil. Don't expect a "tea leaf reading" of engine condition from this... it will be only a snapshot... but it will give you a pretty good indication of oil health and whether it is safe and advisable to extend the interval or not.

I have a 2000 Honda that operates in more or less the same sort of environment and using a similar quality syn blend oil. I've been gradually extending the interval from 5K and at the next interval to test, I will be out to 10K miles. 8500 miles was a BREEZE for it, as was 9K, so I suspect 10K will be nominal as well, though I expect to see some signs of this being nearer the limit.

Whether you go longer or not, I suggest an improvement in filtration. The MC filters are high quality filters in most respects but they are "average" in filtration efficiency. Cleaner oil helps extend the intervals. Look at Fram Ultra, Bosch Distance Plus, Royal Purple, Purolateor Pure 1 Synthetic. Of them, I think the Ultra is the best deal. Lotta capability for the money.

 

[Donald]

So while a MC filter is very good, there are even better ones. M1, Bosch D+. I would consider PP. Its an excellent oil at a decent price. Buy the filters on Amazon for free shipping.

Your vehicle will fail before your engine. As in rust or repairs start to mount up. Diff & tran fluids?

Carwell the vehicle for rust prevention.

 

[Hallmark]

Your choices of oil, OCIs, etc. to date mirror the treatment I give three vehicles in my stable. But, I recently switched a 2012 Veloster over to Kendall GT-1 5W20 syn blend (w/titanium) at $44.40/case FOB distributor. After studying some VOAs/UOAs of that oil, I concluded that it is ConocoPhillips Motorcraft blend with an enhanced formulation that appeals to me.

 

[zerosoma]

Switch to nothing but straight Marvel Mystery Oil.







actually I'm kidding on that one. Do what you're doing it's working fine!

 

[Eddie]

Continue with your present oil & filter. You will reach your goal easly unless a drunk hits you.

 

[threeputtpar]

I've been servicing my SIL's 2006 Escape with the 3.0l, so here is my take.

I agree with most everyone saying that the combo of MC 2W-20 and the FL-820s is good. You could spend more for synthetic and maybe extend the change interval, but the cost per mile would be roughly the same so I stuck with MC for her's.

What you should really be checking and servicing is the CD4E transmission and the PTU that is connected to the trans (if it is 4WD). Her's has 75K miles on it and the trans fluid was in need of changing and the PTU gear lube was toast. Mercon V or an equivelant in the trans and any synthetic 75W140 in the PTU. The trans has a drain plug for ease of change, and IIRC so does the PTU. Trans filter is non-servicable.

For spark plugs, the intake manifold needs to be removed so you may want to have someone do that for you if you don't feel confident.

 

[mechtech2]

That Motorcraft oil is VERY good.
And the MC filters are valved properly [anti drain] for the car.

 

[36yrsinTX]

Thanks so much to everyone for their input. Follow-ups:
-Shots in the dark? Nah, if ya watch this forum, then you're probably a lube geek and have much better advice than the average service manager, quickie lube manager, or auto parts store employee. That's expert in my book!
-I sent for and received some UOA kits recently, so did plan to do that @ the next OC.
-I will study the oil filter issue more closely. I had not researched filters for a number of years, but back then, MC, P-1 and Wix were top-rated. Certainly there are better choices today.
-Already been hit once - but not a drunk, a 19-year old who wasn't paying attention. Pretty good T-bone, but repairs were top-notch and no resulting driveability issues.
-A couple of you mentioned the trans. Being aware of its fragile reputation from the start, I had a flush done at 15K, 30K, and 60K. At 90K, I did my own flush with Amsoil synthetic by doing a triple change (drain, refill, drive it one day, repeat 2 more times) since you only get about 1/2 of the capacity out per drain. I now calculate there is about 80% fresh fluid in it. Expensive, but cheaper than a flush at a shop, and I have a high-quality fluid. This is a 2wd, so no PTU, but it does have a trailering pkg, so there is an aux cooler. Right, no filter serviceability.
-Plugs changed (be me) @ 90K. What a PITA!! I did discover a leak in the front cam cover gasket tho. Snugging down the CC bolts seemed to cure it, however.

Will stay the course on oil, maybe switch filter brands. Thanks again.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: 36yrsinTX
-I sent for and received some UOA kits recently, so did plan to do that @ the next OC.


That's a sensible plan. I suspect the results will say that the maintenance followed since day one has been fine, though.

I see no problems with what's been undertaken so far.

With respect to filters, don't sweat them much unless you're tempted to buy garbage filters or dramatically extend your OCIs.