what strength jack?

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Get the unijack off ebay. jack and stand in one. Get 4 and be happy. Smaller one will work fine but bigger one will lift higher if that helps
 
I just popped over to the U.S. to buy the $59 3-Ton Aluminum low-profile jack that Harbor Freight had on sale.
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I do realize my Highlander is 4,000lbs but I'm not lifting the whole thing at once so 3-Ton is fine.
 
I have the HF Daytona three ton jack. I actually have two now. Makes tire rotations a breeze.
I have a Chevy Suburban and I'm building a 68 roadrunner. My wife has a Kia Sorento and our two older kids have a Jeep Grand Cherokee and a Jeep Liberty. Child's play for these jacks.
 
If you dont have to travel with it just snag one of the larger HF steel jacks. They are actually quite nice.

The aluminum ones are very light but not as stable(and most dont lift as high)
They are however about 10x better than scissor jacks.

If needed they also have air/hydraulic models as well.
 
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I have the Harbor Freight steel 3 ton jack. It lifts my Tundra no problem.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
I just popped over to the U.S. to buy the $59 3-Ton Aluminum low-profile jack that Harbor Freight had on sale.
grin2.gif


I do realize my Highlander is 4,000lbs but I'm not lifting the whole thing at once so 3-Ton is fine.



Ummm, a ton is 2000 lbs so 3 tons is 6,000 lbs. Not a problem.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
2000 lbs would be sufficient.


Jacking one tire at a time is still lifting the weight of half the vehicle (even if the "third" wheel is still on the ground, the suspension on that wheel may be unloaded either partially or completely, putting the full weight of the half of the vehicle you are lifting on the jack).

So, depending on the weight distribution front: rear and the total weight of the vehicle and cargo (because it could be loaded to maximum cargo weight), that would be your jack weight rating, plus the 200% safety margin. The safety margin is required because you never use any injury / fatality potential tool to it's maximum rating.

Eg Miata 2200 lbs + 600 lbs = 2800 lbs, 51:49 ratio so 1428 lbs : 1372 lbs; greater of the two is 1428 lbs x 200% = 2856 lbs, you would select a 1.5 ton (3000 pound) jack.

For the OP's vehicle, 2000 lbs is definitely not sufficient.
 
What is the derating for a jack?

I mean, last I knew, bridges were built with a 40x fudge factor. You can way overload a bridge as a result. Planes are like 1.1x. It's expected that users are going to be anal and not go an ounce over. It seems in electronics the same 1.1x factor is used--ideally you'd use voltage ratings that are 2x peak voltage.

Are jack ratings the fail-at rating, or is that half (or quarter, or ___) of what it takes to fail?
 
Lifting equipment is built with safety-factors... however I wouldn't rely my life on just a jack. Regardless of what jack you use to lift a vehicle, you should always have appropriate jack stands. I bet a 1-1.5T could lift a corner of the vehicle. However ground clearance or max lift height might be a problem.

I have both a 1.5 and 3T hydraulic jacks and 3T stands... never had problems lifting supporting anything I own.
 
Three ton will work. I went with the 4 ton HF jack. Overkill but imo well worth the money, it is a beast.
 
Engineering General Recommendations for lifting and hoisting:

General recommendations
Applications / Factor of Safety
- FOS - (Fail over Safe)

For use with highly reliable materials where loading and environmental conditions are not severe and where weight is an important consideration 1.3 - 1.5
For use with reliable materials where loading and environmental conditions are not severe 1.5 - 2
For use with ordinary materials where loading and environmental conditions are not severe 2 - 2.5
For use with less tried and for brittle materials where loading and environmental conditions are not severe 2.5 - 3
For use with materials where properties are not reliable and where loading and environmental conditions are not severe, or where reliable materials are used under difficult and environmental conditions 3 - 4

Note as well that lifting from the side of a load is inherently unstable in comparison to lifting from the end of a load. Many automotive applications use lift points on unibody construction vehicles that are on the side of the box section frame member between the wheels. IN that case suggest using the higher of any recommendation, versus lifting from the frame or bumper as on full frame vehicles.

With hydraulic jacks, NEVER continue pumping the jack once the lift has reached full extension; all you are doing in that case is adding pressure to the seals (seal failure will get your attention, guaranteed) and the internals of the jack. Also jacks are never to be used for long term lifting of a load, always use blocks or jack stands instead. The danger there is the jack is more likely to fail the next time it is used.
 
Rule of thumb is to get the largest jack you can afford. Just like gun safes... I love the HF 4 ton low profile one. With the coupon, they are $80 or so and have excellent reviews.
 
I can afford a big jack but my back can't. Dirt driveway so I carry the jack in and out of the shed. Right now I keep one in the car. "Heavy" would be quite annoying!

I found that my 15 year old jack, which looks a lot like the 2 ton HF trolley jack, weighs the same as the 1.5 ton HF aluminum jack. Was hoping for less but neither is too bad.
 
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