That may be the case, but there really isn't a better way of doing it with an EV unfortunately.
What powers the ac compressor on an electric vehicle?
- Thread starter The motor guy
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VWs always start rough in my experience. I don't know why.
I just installed the Tiguan version of this. Works great, no more forgetting to disable the start/stop.
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Ed
3 or more phases, and an inverter to step UP the Voltage even higher that the output Voltage of the big drive battery. Using high Voltage enables the windings of the ac electric motor to be made of thinner wire resulting in less copper being used, and less weight.
It's not that simple. The compressor on an ICE vehicle just cycles on and off based on pressure and/or computer control, so while the idea of "oversized" is true to the extent that cycling on and off is less efficient than something barely sized large enough to get the job done so it never cycles off (which would also depend on your set climate control temp and fan), it also means that oversized can get the vehicle cabin cold a lot faster.
"Just right" sizing works a lot better in a building where the system always runs to maintain temp, not as much in an automobile where you're using it intermittently while traveling and don't want to sweat in a 100F+ vehicle while waiting for it to get cool inside. While I don't have any hard data, it wouldn't surprise me at all if EV compressors/motors are not "right sized" but also oversized and still cycling the compressor on and off in routine use.
Both in my current Bolt and my previous Volt the electric ac compressors cycle like on an ICE car. It’s just less obvious and more of a whirring sound vs the click of a clutch. I don’t think they are variable speed?
The first generation of these compact, electrically driven AC/Heat pump compressors are finding themselves in other applications too. Such as light aircraft.
Just about everyone uses variable displacement compressors now but depending on temp it could still cycle off.
@Torrid, the paper clip trick is the first and most primitive defeat of the a/ss system in the fords - you simply bend it into a “U” and press it into the back side of the wiring harness connector as it plugs into the defeat switch. The signal is read on press, without needing the release. It registers as soon as you turn the key to start. It does not disable BMS. The only downside is if you cycle the engine without a full power down, it will enable a/ss and you can’t disable it because the switch is essentially bypassed. Works great.
-m!
It's a heat pump with resistive strips. It works fine, move or sit. Super efficient, as well.
Hybrid compressors for the a c system that run on very high voltage require special oil that has extremely low amounts of moisture in it. And in order to prevent moisture from being add it to this kind of a system if it is ever serviced it requires being serviced by equipment that is dedicated for that type of system. If you use equipment that was used on a regular air conditioning system of a internal combustion engine, it will be contaminated with oil that has too much moisture in it and the high voltage will cause problems because of that moisture.
These systems are completely sealed and do not suffer from leakage around a shaft between the compressor and an outside clutch. Because they do not ha outside clutch. The motor that drives them is contained in the same containment as the compressor and therefore in general, they do not leak refrigerant out of them like internal combustion engine AC compressors do.
Some manufacturers want the system service after several years even if they're not having any problems. Personally I don't see a need for this. And because it does not leak refrigerant as much as their internal combustion engine counterparts, it may be that they actually can be used for many more years thand the internal combustion engine counterpart without having to have any service at all.
These systems are completely sealed and do not suffer from leakage around a shaft between the compressor and an outside clutch. Because they do not ha outside clutch. The motor that drives them is contained in the same containment as the compressor and therefore in general, they do not leak refrigerant out of them like internal combustion engine AC compressors do.
Some manufacturers want the system service after several years even if they're not having any problems. Personally I don't see a need for this. And because it does not leak refrigerant as much as their internal combustion engine counterparts, it may be that they actually can be used for many more years thand the internal combustion engine counterpart without having to have any service at all.
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I noticed a lot of the gas vehicles that turn off, seem to turn back on after a couple of minutes. Probably to power the ac. Either that or they moved forward slightly at the stop light and started the cycle over again. My ac is out on my truck so my window has been down and I notice these things now. Lol
Usually DC to AC multiphase motor to control the output of the AC compressor to be just right, constant on, without cycling on and off. This is like your inverter AC (a very popular thing in Asia) and with multiphase constant on, variable output, there is no surge that stress the inverter.
This is also used in most hybrid except Honda Accord. I think the Honda Accord AC compressor has 2 side, 1 powered by the engine and the other powered by the inverter electric motor, so either they blend to get a target output or they use either or. This can be more efficient but more expensive to make.
This is also used in most hybrid except Honda Accord. I think the Honda Accord AC compressor has 2 side, 1 powered by the engine and the other powered by the inverter electric motor, so either they blend to get a target output or they use either or. This can be more efficient but more expensive to make.
The Kona EV has a 3-phase 400V compressor with both an evaporator and a condenser in the cabin airflow path. That allows efficient dehumidification as needed to clear the windshield.
It also has a 400V resistive PTC heater next to those to heat the air on start-up when under 7°C while the heat pump does its de-icing cycle. I can tell when this happens because the power usage is around 3.5 kW for the first minute then drops to around 0.6 kW as the heat pump takes over.
It also has a 400V resistive PTC heater next to those to heat the air on start-up when under 7°C while the heat pump does its de-icing cycle. I can tell when this happens because the power usage is around 3.5 kW for the first minute then drops to around 0.6 kW as the heat pump takes over.