Any of the branded syn 5w20 oils will work fine, PP QHP Mobil1. Many have rebates that will save you some cash as well. If you think you need a 5w30 I would go PP as it is a thin 5w30.
what oil for the toyota 5.7 liter????????
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Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
How does Redline 5w30 compare to Amsoil ASL?
I beleive the ASL would be slightly thicker. No?
The viscoties are virtually identical, RedLine has a much higher HTHS value though.
Interesting....
Thanks for the info Ben
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
How does Redline 5w30 compare to Amsoil ASL?
I beleive the ASL would be slightly thicker. No?
The viscoties are virtually identical, RedLine has a much higher HTHS value though.
Interesting....
Thanks for the info Ben
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
3 toyotas- The amsoil HDD has a ton of ZDDP as I remember. Pretty sure the ASL has little to none. I have had great luck running Redline 5w-30 in my toyotas. I was running SSO in the camry and it wasnt quite right. Great oil just not for the 3MZ-FE. Its very quiet with the RL. I am curious about the ASL as these motors prefer a bit more viscous oil in my experiments.
Is ZDDP an important additive or what, and what does it do?
Interesting on the RL; good to hear.
Well, i'm finding out the same thing with our corolla and my tundra with the SSO. Not working out so good, as both motors are noisier than the ASL. It looks like to me that your experiments just might be spot on with the need for a more viscous oil.
Going back to the ASL in all our stuff now.
3 toyotas- The amsoil HDD has a ton of ZDDP as I remember. Pretty sure the ASL has little to none. I have had great luck running Redline 5w-30 in my toyotas. I was running SSO in the camry and it wasnt quite right. Great oil just not for the 3MZ-FE. Its very quiet with the RL. I am curious about the ASL as these motors prefer a bit more viscous oil in my experiments.
Is ZDDP an important additive or what, and what does it do?
Interesting on the RL; good to hear.
Well, i'm finding out the same thing with our corolla and my tundra with the SSO. Not working out so good, as both motors are noisier than the ASL. It looks like to me that your experiments just might be spot on with the need for a more viscous oil.
Going back to the ASL in all our stuff now.
0W20 or 5W20 and call it a day. In fact some have used 5W20 in thier speced 5W30 engines. Unless i lived in a extreamly cold climate id give 5W20 a try.
Originally Posted By: whitearrow
hey fellas i wish y'all would give me the secret on how to get decent gas mileage out of this truck.don't get me wrong i didn't get the truck for stellar gas mileage but every advantage helps.i get 15.3 mpg's no matter whether i drive like grandpa or like a 15 year old.what gives?my driving is approx. 50/50 hwy to city with maybe slightly more hwy.
A newer engine will often get somewhat worse mileage than a higher-mileage engine that is 'broken in' a bit more.
Give it some time, and some hard driving, and the engine will 'settle in'.
hey fellas i wish y'all would give me the secret on how to get decent gas mileage out of this truck.don't get me wrong i didn't get the truck for stellar gas mileage but every advantage helps.i get 15.3 mpg's no matter whether i drive like grandpa or like a 15 year old.what gives?my driving is approx. 50/50 hwy to city with maybe slightly more hwy.
A newer engine will often get somewhat worse mileage than a higher-mileage engine that is 'broken in' a bit more.
Give it some time, and some hard driving, and the engine will 'settle in'.
I've got a 2007 Tundra 5.7L Crewcab. I've used Amsoil 0W-20 and it turned in very, very good UOA's. In fact, those may be my UOA's referred to earlier in the thread.
Lately I've fed it Valvoline Synpower 5W-20 (O'reilly rebate) and was mostly happy. Only thing was that towards the end of the last OCI, fuel mileage went into the toilet. From high 19's to low 17's. I then changed the oil for Quaker State Q-horsepower 5W-20 (with rebate). I also did a drain and fill on the tranny with Toyota WS. Gas mileage is back into the high 19's. I find it hard to believe that an oil change would boost fuel mileage so much, but I can't explain it any other way.
All oils seemed to sound the same in it - can't tell if one is quieter or not.
I'm a believer in the drain and fill for the tranny. The fluid I drained at 40k didn't look bad, but it sure wasn't new either.
thanks,
ben
Lately I've fed it Valvoline Synpower 5W-20 (O'reilly rebate) and was mostly happy. Only thing was that towards the end of the last OCI, fuel mileage went into the toilet. From high 19's to low 17's. I then changed the oil for Quaker State Q-horsepower 5W-20 (with rebate). I also did a drain and fill on the tranny with Toyota WS. Gas mileage is back into the high 19's. I find it hard to believe that an oil change would boost fuel mileage so much, but I can't explain it any other way.
All oils seemed to sound the same in it - can't tell if one is quieter or not.
I'm a believer in the drain and fill for the tranny. The fluid I drained at 40k didn't look bad, but it sure wasn't new either.
thanks,
ben
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Most people have great luck running any proper spec oil in their Toyotas. Realisticaly 5,000 mile oil changes with a high end syn oil is not really buying you anything and you would be draining out oil that probably has at least a conservative 5,000 miles of life still left in it. But then it is you money so do what ever you think would serve your needs.
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
What advantage would the HDD 5w30 have over the ASL?
The oil is rated as a HDEO and is formulated to protect gasoline and diesel engines in the most severe commercial use. If you do not need the extra additives there may not be any advantage in using the oil. For example if 100 ppm of x additive gives all the protection needed 200 ppm may not be of any benefit . That said running a syn can't hurt and a 0w-30 isn't super thick.
What advantage would the HDD 5w30 have over the ASL?
The oil is rated as a HDEO and is formulated to protect gasoline and diesel engines in the most severe commercial use. If you do not need the extra additives there may not be any advantage in using the oil. For example if 100 ppm of x additive gives all the protection needed 200 ppm may not be of any benefit . That said running a syn can't hurt and a 0w-30 isn't super thick.
I think 5W40's and 0W40's are the best all around comprimise for most engines in North America. I can say with out any doubt that even though Toyota's do well on almost anything I prefer M1 0W40,RTS 5W40,Redline 5W40,Redline 5W30,Amsoil Series 3000 HD 5W30,Motul 300V in any viscosity......
If that was my truck I would either be running M1 0W40,Redline 5W30 or Amsoil S3K 5W30 year round. I would be changing the oil every 6 months no matter the millage and running a decent filter. In the past I normally went cheap on filters but recent information has me moving back towards Purone's, K&N, M-1 etc........for filter's.
With any of the above oils you would not even need to do a UOA unless you wanted to show off because all of them will produce insanely low wear number in all of Toyota's V8's!
Oh if you did want to use a 5W20 or 0W20 which I would never do because I do not see where they are anything other then a solution looking for a problem I would use Redlines 0W20 or 5W20 and not look back!
If that was my truck I would either be running M1 0W40,Redline 5W30 or Amsoil S3K 5W30 year round. I would be changing the oil every 6 months no matter the millage and running a decent filter. In the past I normally went cheap on filters but recent information has me moving back towards Purone's, K&N, M-1 etc........for filter's.
With any of the above oils you would not even need to do a UOA unless you wanted to show off because all of them will produce insanely low wear number in all of Toyota's V8's!
Oh if you did want to use a 5W20 or 0W20 which I would never do because I do not see where they are anything other then a solution looking for a problem I would use Redlines 0W20 or 5W20 and not look back!
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i would absolutely love to run rotella t synthetic 5w-40.i use it in my atv,lawn mower,etc.so it would be nice to just use one oil.i read in the owners manual said to use 0w-20 or 5w-20 only.i am just a little afraid to use a 40w oil in a $40,000 truck that specs a 20w.
Originally Posted By: kd5byb
I've got a 2007 Tundra 5.7L Crewcab. I've used Amsoil 0W-20 and it turned in very, very good UOA's. In fact, those may be my UOA's referred to earlier in the thread.
Lately I've fed it Valvoline Synpower 5W-20 (O'reilly rebate) and was mostly happy. Only thing was that towards the end of the last OCI, fuel mileage went into the toilet. From high 19's to low 17's. I then changed the oil for Quaker State Q-horsepower 5W-20 (with rebate). I also did a drain and fill on the tranny with Toyota WS. Gas mileage is back into the high 19's. I find it hard to believe that an oil change would boost fuel mileage so much, but I can't explain it any other way.
All oils seemed to sound the same in it - can't tell if one is quieter or not.
I'm a believer in the drain and fill for the tranny. The fluid I drained at 40k didn't look bad, but it sure wasn't new either.
thanks,
ben
Your mileage went in the toilet with the valvoline?
Good decision on the trans drain and fill; what did you pay for the WS?
Did my tundra couple months ago with ATL, and so far it's improved low throttle shifting some. You're right, the old didn't look bad, (even mostly towing) but it's a good thing to start the process off sooner. The old fluid in my truck looked maroon in color, while the new was a bright red. Truck at 27k now.
IF you did the d&f yourself, did you check the level before you drained to see if toyota underfilled you?
What's your plans for future drains?
Later
I've got a 2007 Tundra 5.7L Crewcab. I've used Amsoil 0W-20 and it turned in very, very good UOA's. In fact, those may be my UOA's referred to earlier in the thread.
Lately I've fed it Valvoline Synpower 5W-20 (O'reilly rebate) and was mostly happy. Only thing was that towards the end of the last OCI, fuel mileage went into the toilet. From high 19's to low 17's. I then changed the oil for Quaker State Q-horsepower 5W-20 (with rebate). I also did a drain and fill on the tranny with Toyota WS. Gas mileage is back into the high 19's. I find it hard to believe that an oil change would boost fuel mileage so much, but I can't explain it any other way.
All oils seemed to sound the same in it - can't tell if one is quieter or not.
I'm a believer in the drain and fill for the tranny. The fluid I drained at 40k didn't look bad, but it sure wasn't new either.
thanks,
ben
Your mileage went in the toilet with the valvoline?
Good decision on the trans drain and fill; what did you pay for the WS?
Did my tundra couple months ago with ATL, and so far it's improved low throttle shifting some. You're right, the old didn't look bad, (even mostly towing) but it's a good thing to start the process off sooner. The old fluid in my truck looked maroon in color, while the new was a bright red. Truck at 27k now.
IF you did the d&f yourself, did you check the level before you drained to see if toyota underfilled you?
What's your plans for future drains?
Later
Did you guys just drain, measure, and refill the ATF?
Sitting at 55k, running like a top, Canadian Toyota 0W20 since new. Getting on average 14.6 L/100km.
Sitting at 55k, running like a top, Canadian Toyota 0W20 since new. Getting on average 14.6 L/100km.
Originally Posted By: byez
Did you guys just drain, measure, and refill the ATF?
Sitting at 55k, running like a top, Canadian Toyota 0W20 since new. Getting on average 14.6 L/100km.
That's what i did with my trans fluid. Not too bad of a job really; just got to realize it's totally different than yester-years fluid system's. YOu got a drain plug ( 14mm ), check plug (5mm allen ), and a fill plug ( 24mm ). The fill plug is on the drivers side near the front of the trans, and you gotta have about 4' of 1/2" clear tubing & a funnel to fill the fluid. Because the fluid is so thin, it actually flows pretty fast.
YOu probably outta get-er done ASAP if you can. Good insurance after the warranty is up.
Did you guys just drain, measure, and refill the ATF?
Sitting at 55k, running like a top, Canadian Toyota 0W20 since new. Getting on average 14.6 L/100km.
That's what i did with my trans fluid. Not too bad of a job really; just got to realize it's totally different than yester-years fluid system's. YOu got a drain plug ( 14mm ), check plug (5mm allen ), and a fill plug ( 24mm ). The fill plug is on the drivers side near the front of the trans, and you gotta have about 4' of 1/2" clear tubing & a funnel to fill the fluid. Because the fluid is so thin, it actually flows pretty fast.
YOu probably outta get-er done ASAP if you can. Good insurance after the warranty is up.
What was the exact volume of fluid that came out of yours? How do you use the check plug? Does it have to be at a certain temperature before opening the check valve?
Originally Posted By: byez
What was the exact volume of fluid that came out of yours? How do you use the check plug? Does it have to be at a certain temperature before opening the check valve?
3.20 quarts; and it drains the same warm or hot.
You don't remove the check plug until the trans fluid is between 115F & 133F with an IR thermometer, and the truck is idling in P with the a/c & defrost off. I would pull it at 115 on a IR, cause the fluid temp will be slightly higher than that reading but still under 133.
Also, if you have the 5.7 tow package you have to bypass the temp sensor to the cooler before you can get the proper reading. It's on the passenger side and it's a bolt you push in with a screwdriver and install a paper clip in the holes to keep the bolt depressed. Before you do this though, the truck should be cold when you start.
You should go join tundrasolutions.com, then you can get the TSB for the process.
What was the exact volume of fluid that came out of yours? How do you use the check plug? Does it have to be at a certain temperature before opening the check valve?
3.20 quarts; and it drains the same warm or hot.
You don't remove the check plug until the trans fluid is between 115F & 133F with an IR thermometer, and the truck is idling in P with the a/c & defrost off. I would pull it at 115 on a IR, cause the fluid temp will be slightly higher than that reading but still under 133.
Also, if you have the 5.7 tow package you have to bypass the temp sensor to the cooler before you can get the proper reading. It's on the passenger side and it's a bolt you push in with a screwdriver and install a paper clip in the holes to keep the bolt depressed. Before you do this though, the truck should be cold when you start.
You should go join tundrasolutions.com, then you can get the TSB for the process.
Originally Posted By: whitearrow
i would absolutely love to run rotella t synthetic 5w-40.i use it in my atv,lawn mower,etc.so it would be nice to just use one oil.i read in the owners manual said to use 0w-20 or 5w-20 only.i am just a little afraid to use a 40w oil in a $40,000 truck that specs a 20w.
I'd be a little nervous running a 40w as well. If you decide to do it though, let us know how it goes.
Getting a little better mileage yet?
The hardest thing with these trucks is keeping your foot out of it. Yeah right; it's not easy to do that's for sure.
i would absolutely love to run rotella t synthetic 5w-40.i use it in my atv,lawn mower,etc.so it would be nice to just use one oil.i read in the owners manual said to use 0w-20 or 5w-20 only.i am just a little afraid to use a 40w oil in a $40,000 truck that specs a 20w.
I'd be a little nervous running a 40w as well. If you decide to do it though, let us know how it goes.
Getting a little better mileage yet?
The hardest thing with these trucks is keeping your foot out of it. Yeah right; it's not easy to do that's for sure.
I have a 09 tundra and did the first oil change at 1200 (M1 5w20)and the second at 4200 and put in M1 0w20. I live in North Dakota where it can get to 20 below and colder. I did notice that I'm getting about 1mpg better on the highway with the 0w20. I'm currently getting 16.7mpg hwy and 14.6 in town.
I did the last OC before finding BITOG so I will be going to a different oil in the spring. I'm just not sure what I will change to, I'm even more confused after reading this thread...
3toyotas- what would you recommend, I do mostly short trips during the week but in the summer we have a camper that is 4500lbs that I take out about 6 times a year. Oil filter recommendations? I've been using the OEM.
I did the last OC before finding BITOG so I will be going to a different oil in the spring. I'm just not sure what I will change to, I'm even more confused after reading this thread...
3toyotas- what would you recommend, I do mostly short trips during the week but in the summer we have a camper that is 4500lbs that I take out about 6 times a year. Oil filter recommendations? I've been using the OEM.
Getting the break in metals out of there is definately a good idea.
How many miles you have on the truck? You can expect that mileage to improve after 21k.
What oil you considering now?
Amsoil makes a tremendous ASM 0w20 which i beleive is thicker than most other 0w20's. It's also produced stellar UOA results.
You could run that in the winter, and step up to a 0w30 in the summer if you'd like. Or, you could run ASM all year for that matter; it would protect just fine. For towing purposes, i prefer a 30w thinking i may get slightly better protection. However, a 5w30 is not recomended for the 5.7 but is good for the 4.0 or the 4.7. I beleive the new 4.6 is specd for a 20w as well.
I would however, recomend sticking with a synthetic in these motors. Filters...........well we don't have too many options yet on these, but i've been using OEM and my UOA shows no filtration problems. Heard not so good things about wix, and there's no info yet on the TRD to sway me to start using them.
I can buy the OEM filters in a 10-pk for $40 including tax and shipping from trdparts4u.com, so i think we'll just stick with these.
It's pretty tough to beat Amsoil or Redline, but they come with a price too. I ran valvoline synthetic 5w20 when the truck was new, and noticed no strange engine noises and it seemed to do fine.
For your winters IMO, stick with the 0w and if you want to step it up in the summer go for it. If you go off OEM change intervals, the OEM filter should do you fine. I'm running 1yr/10k mile intervals with one filter on SSO 0w30 right now.
How many miles you have on the truck? You can expect that mileage to improve after 21k.
What oil you considering now?
Amsoil makes a tremendous ASM 0w20 which i beleive is thicker than most other 0w20's. It's also produced stellar UOA results.
You could run that in the winter, and step up to a 0w30 in the summer if you'd like. Or, you could run ASM all year for that matter; it would protect just fine. For towing purposes, i prefer a 30w thinking i may get slightly better protection. However, a 5w30 is not recomended for the 5.7 but is good for the 4.0 or the 4.7. I beleive the new 4.6 is specd for a 20w as well.
I would however, recomend sticking with a synthetic in these motors. Filters...........well we don't have too many options yet on these, but i've been using OEM and my UOA shows no filtration problems. Heard not so good things about wix, and there's no info yet on the TRD to sway me to start using them.
I can buy the OEM filters in a 10-pk for $40 including tax and shipping from trdparts4u.com, so i think we'll just stick with these.
It's pretty tough to beat Amsoil or Redline, but they come with a price too. I ran valvoline synthetic 5w20 when the truck was new, and noticed no strange engine noises and it seemed to do fine.
For your winters IMO, stick with the 0w and if you want to step it up in the summer go for it. If you go off OEM change intervals, the OEM filter should do you fine. I'm running 1yr/10k mile intervals with one filter on SSO 0w30 right now.
My truck only has 5500 (600 of that was last weekend for a hunting trip) miles on it, bought it back in March so it will be while for 20K.
I was really thinking of maybe going to 0w-20 PP but I know that amsoil is a step up if I want pay the money. I really want to stick with 6 month OCI's until the warranty is up. Both times I changed my oil the oil filter still looked new so I agree on the OEM filter. I know that purolator makes one as well but with 6 month OCI's I stick with the OEM and it's cheap anyway. I don't do a lot of towing so I think the 20 would handle what I need it for.
How much is it for a quart of ASM?
I was really thinking of maybe going to 0w-20 PP but I know that amsoil is a step up if I want pay the money. I really want to stick with 6 month OCI's until the warranty is up. Both times I changed my oil the oil filter still looked new so I agree on the OEM filter. I know that purolator makes one as well but with 6 month OCI's I stick with the OEM and it's cheap anyway. I don't do a lot of towing so I think the 20 would handle what I need it for.
How much is it for a quart of ASM?
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