What filter to clean 5VZ?

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Hey guys. An episode of mental illness has me thinking too much about my 5VZ in 4x4 pickup. I have been running M1 with YZZD1 for the past 26,000 miles.

When I got the truck I replaced an aftermarket pcv that was acting rude. Later I reshimmed some of the valves and found the baffles in valve cover packed pretty nice with oil deposits. It took a half gallon of PB Blaster to clean them up. I also got the shopvac and a pick and pulled a small amount of this [censored] out of the valvetrain area. Then a toyota dealer tech told me that they just throw the valve covers away when they see this.

A BMW dealer shop manager, who does a lot of work on the side, showed me some before and after photos of a tough neglect case he got, where he ran the engine with ATF in the crankcase. So I decided to try this for myself, and changed oil with 1 quart of ATF mixed in, L10241 filter, and drove for 30 miles. On the drain, the oil looked pretty gross but was not so black that I couldn't see the red tint from ATF. That was over 15000 miles ago, and I have had no reason to be concerned that this caused any harm.

I'm switching to Rotella T5 after positive experiences with this in other cars. There's a bottle of LiquiMoly Motor Clean on my shelf that I want to get rid of. Why not use it in the 5VZ? All the other engines I have, including the one I intended to use this product in, are pretty pristine.

I am planning to change the filter, run the Motor Clean, then cut open both filters for analysis. But which filter is better for this kind of operation? On the shelf I have a pile of YZZD1, a couple FL400S, and a brand new L20195 (F01G24B1). But all of these filters, especially the Denso, seem to be known to be comparatively weak at filtering. Should I use a P1/Bosch filter instead when I use the Motor Clean? Or something else like Fram Ultra, roll of paper towels, or old teeshirt?

I'm also going to quit the M1 for cost reasons - planning to switch to Rotella T5.
 
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Let me get this straight...

1/2 gallon of PB Blaster
Valve cover gaskets
Short drain interval (ATF, oil, filter), plus replacement oil/filter
LiquiMoly
Plethora of oil filters

...all of that unnecessary expense, and you're going to stop using Mobil 1 because of "cost reasons?" Stop the madness!

P.S. - Running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-30 with a Fram Ultra on 10k drain intervals in a 1MZ-FE with excellent results (http://i.imgur.com/qDL5lEc.png).
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Let me get this straight...

1/2 gallon of PB Blaster
Valve cover gaskets
Short drain interval (ATF, oil, filter), plus replacement oil/filter
LiquiMoly
Plethora of oil filters

...all of that unnecessary expense, and you're going to stop using Mobil 1 because of "cost reasons?" Stop the madness!

P.S. - Running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-30 with a Fram Ultra on 10k drain intervals in a 1MZ-FE with excellent results (http://i.imgur.com/qDL5lEc.png).


I don't drive as much as I used to, to the point where a 1 year OCI has 2000-5000 miles run during that interval. Under these conditions, I think that I am not getting as much benefit from the M1 as when I drove 20k/year. Nice UOA on yours though.

I had the Blaster on the shelf already, didn't use most of it because I discovered Kroil. Still need to find a use for the remaining Blaster before the can rusts out.

VCG's leaked anyway, and I fixed a valve tick, so I don't think that was very wasteful.

I do regret buying a dozen YZZD1 though, especially after learning about the YZZD3. I have the ford filters for other cars.
 
Originally Posted By: KDonkey
I don't drive as much as I used to, to the point where a 1 year OCI has 2000-5000 miles run during that interval. Under these conditions, I think that I am not getting as much benefit from the M1 as when I drove 20k/year.


Leave it in there for however many years it takes to rack up the mileage. Time doesn't matter.
 
Originally Posted By: MinamiKotaro
Leave it in there for however many years it takes to rack up the mileage. Time doesn't matter.


I will consider this, but my layperson's understanding of engine oils has me slightly confused. When I ran one of my other cars on the highway all the time, its MM did not turn red until over 15,000 miles, but it has a much larger sump and a giant oil filter (and manufacturer specified synthetic oil).

I will have to be convinced that contamination from water, fuel, and blowby does not hurt over time, especially since I am short tripping. I have 2 years and 7k miles on the current fill in the 5VZ (M1 HM 5w30). Perhaps now is a good time to sample it for my first UOA.

FWIW, I took apart the MM on the other car to find out how it works. It counts liters of fuel consumed, based on the injection pulse duration. For purposes of the count, it doubles the instant consumption when water temperature is below 70C or crankshaft speed is over 4500rpm. An upper bound of 32200 km distance travelled is enforced. Unfortunately I could not find out exactly how much fuel must pass through it to turn the MM red.

If I run the cleaning solvent before changing oil I will probably use the L20195. It's cheap and cutting it open after the "flush" may give an indication of whether it did anything.
 
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