What benefits does 5w-20 have over 0w-20?

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To Shannow's point...


From ConocoPhillips...
http://www.ocsoil.fi/upload/News on Lubes/ILSAC-GF-5.pdf

The TEOST 33C bench test evaluates an engine oil’s tendency to form high-temperature
deposits. This test was originally developed and included in GF-2 to evaluate turbocharger
deposits. It was not part of GF-3 or GF-4, but is back in GF-5 in anticipation of greater use of
turbochargers. Turbochargers allow the automakers to use smaller displacement, more fuel-
efficient engines while still maintaining high power output. Deposit buildup in the turbocharger
bearing areas can lead to loss of engine performance, turbocharger failure and possibly engine
failure. In GF-2, the maximum limit for deposits was 60 mg. For GF-5, the maximum limit is 30
mg (except there is no limit for SAE 0W-20 oils because some Japanese OEMs recommend
SAE 0W-20 oils with high molybdenum content which will not pass this test)
 
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Depending on how cold and hot your climate gets 5w20 for summer and fall then 0w20 for winter and spring.


If you have and any doubts on what to do please read your Owners Operating Manual.
 
Why would one need to switch viscosities by season? 5w-20 is plenty good enough for just about any winter out there, and 0w-20 is just a bonus. 5w-20 and 0w-20 will be essentially interchangeable in the summer. The whole point of multigrades was to avoid seasonal oil changes, not change between the two closest grades on SAE J300 by season.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Why would one need to switch viscosities by season? 5w-20 is plenty good enough for just about any winter out there, and 0w-20 is just a bonus. 5w-20 and 0w-20 will be essentially interchangeable in the summer. The whole point of multigrades was to avoid seasonal oil changes, not change between the two closest grades on SAE J300 by season.


'zackerly...pick the "W" that gets you through (including allowing it to slip a grade in service), the HTHS that suits your high end, and use same thing all year around.
 
BITOG is all about splitting hairs, for sure, but yep, pick something that works all year. It works for just about every European proprietary specification out there. The whole point is not the be wasting oil and just changing based upon ambient temperatures if that can at all be avoided.

If 5w-20 isn't good enough for the engine in the winter and 0w-20 isn't good enough for the summer, I would suggest that neither a 0w-20 nor a 5w-20 are a good choice for the engine at any time in the first place.
 
In my area 0w20 is the first full synthetic to be put on clearance. lol

That's the only reason I'm using it. M1 ep 0w20 for $1 a quart is too good to pass up.
 
I conventional at $1 a quart would be too good to pass up here.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Justin251
In my area 0w20 is the first full synthetic to be put on clearance. lol

That's the only reason I'm using it. M1 ep 0w20 for $1 a quart is too good to pass up.


I have 5 quarts of Pennzoil something-or-another 0w-20 that I got for $1 a quart. I wouldn't mind if this happened more often ... maybe once a year? I'll be doing oil changes less now that the car no longer has a warranty. Once a year OCI!
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
BITOG is all about splitting hairs, for sure, but yep, pick something that works all year. It works for just about every European proprietary specification out there. The whole point is not the be wasting oil and just changing based upon ambient temperatures if that can at all be avoided.

If 5w-20 isn't good enough for the engine in the winter and 0w-20 isn't good enough for the summer, I would suggest that neither a 0w-20 nor a 5w-20 are a good choice for the engine at any time in the first place.


What defines "good enough"?
 
That's my point, tig1. If someone sees it desirable or necessary to use 5w-20 in the summer and 0w-20 in the winter, then clearly they don't think the grade is "good enough." You and I know well enough that if 5w-20 is specified, something like M1 0w-20 will work perfectly well year round, particularly if someone is choosing a synthetic in the first place. Alternatively, if 5w-20 is allowable, it's going to work just fine in all but the worst possible conditions. And, considering where I live, and that I rarely use a 0w-XX, the 5w-20 is fine for winter.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
Is it just slightly thicker? More shear stable?

Let's just say M1 EP 5w-20 vs M1 EP 0w-20

Why use the 5w-20 over 0w-20 in this case?


Why what is the point of your question ?

Almost 4 pages of response I still don't get.

Usually you go from a 5w?? to a 0w?? and not the other way round.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
Is it just slightly thicker? More shear stable?

Let's just say M1 EP 5w-20 vs M1 EP 0w-20

Why use the 5w-20 over 0w-20 in this case?


Why what is the point of your question ?

Almost 4 pages of responses I still don't get this.

Usually you go from a 5w?? to a 0w?? and not the other way round.

BTW the way you have phrased the question I have assumed that the 5w?? is the OEM recommended grade.

Not enough background information to discuss without qualification ie too broad a question.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
That's my point, tig1. If someone sees it desirable or necessary to use 5w-20 in the summer and 0w-20 in the winter, then clearly they don't think the grade is "good enough." You and I know well enough that if 5w-20 is specified, something like M1 0w-20 will work perfectly well year round, particularly if someone is choosing a synthetic in the first place. Alternatively, if 5w-20 is allowable, it's going to work just fine in all but the worst possible conditions. And, considering where I live, and that I rarely use a 0w-XX, the 5w-20 is fine for winter.


Thanks. The 0-20 I use has proven to be outstanding in both sub zeroF and 100F+ temps.
 
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Pennzoil claims an 8.6% NOACK for its Platinum 5W20 compared to 10.8% for the 0W20 in the same line. I'd sure stick with the 5W20 if cold starts weren't a concern for me and that grade was specified for my car.
 
Well, you certainly can do that, but I always wonder about chasing one specification. A Noack of 10.8% isn't bad at all. But, if 5w-20 is acceptable for the car, fits the climate (which it almost invariably will), and is readily available and at a good price, why not?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Well, you certainly can do that, but I always wonder about chasing one specification. A Noack of 10.8% isn't bad at all. But, if 5w-20 is acceptable for the car, fits the climate (which it almost invariably will), and is readily available and at a good price, why not?


Yah, you'd probably have to get into a very extreme climate to really care about the 0W20 cold benefits. The PP 5W20 I used as an example has pretty good viscosity at -30C and I have been happy with very cold starts on ski weekends in the Whites with 5W30 oils featuring similar numbers. Maybe if I worked at the top of Mt. Washington I'd be thinking 0WXX...
 
5W-20 has zero benefit over 0W-20 when speaking from an engine perspective. 0W-20 does have the benefit of being better in extreme cold starting than 5W-20.

5W-20 does have a cost benefit over 0W-20 as 0W-20 is either semi or full synthetic while 5W-20 can be had in conventional form.
 
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