I clean my O ring chains with WD40 and lube them with motor oil.
What are we using for chain lube?
- Thread starter Chris142
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Now you've done it. You said motor oil. Is it dino, a blend or synthetic? Straight weight or multi vis? Store brand or major label? C'mon- give us the 411...
Synthetic would make the chain slip!
Really though just oil. I had some left over Castrol 5W50 (the green stuff) left over from the early 90's and it seemed to work the best. Now my chain oil can has Valvoline racing 20W50 in it I think.
Really though just oil. I had some left over Castrol 5W50 (the green stuff) left over from the early 90's and it seemed to work the best. Now my chain oil can has Valvoline racing 20W50 in it I think.
The best I have used is the Hondaline , Motorex and the Motul dry lubes .
No fuss , no mess .
No fuss , no mess .
I give the warm chain a good dose of Inox spray lube after a run.
No adjustmant needed in 23000km.DID VMX Gold chain on a VFR.
No cleaning either- the Inox does not hold dirt.
Next time you replace a worn out chain split a few links to see how much of your lube gets through to the pins/rollers - zilch!
I find Inox superior to WD 40 in every application.
No adjustmant needed in 23000km.DID VMX Gold chain on a VFR.
No cleaning either- the Inox does not hold dirt.
Next time you replace a worn out chain split a few links to see how much of your lube gets through to the pins/rollers - zilch!
I find Inox superior to WD 40 in every application.
I use WD-40 to clean the chain and Maxima Chain Wax to keep it lubed.
Remember that O-ring chains don't really need to be oiled, as the lubrication is contained in the O-rings. The purpose of the lube is to keep the exterior of the chain from rusting. Chain Wax is nice because you spray it on, and once it sets, it's like a waxy coating on the chain... no mess.
Remember that O-ring chains don't really need to be oiled, as the lubrication is contained in the O-rings. The purpose of the lube is to keep the exterior of the chain from rusting. Chain Wax is nice because you spray it on, and once it sets, it's like a waxy coating on the chain... no mess.
This is not right on topic but is interesting.
I was into desert racing and riding for many years. I always removed the chains (these were not O'ring chains) and washed them in left-over premix gas. Then I would soak them in a warm mixture of 50w oil and grease and hang them to drain. This was done every week and took up a lot of my time.
I had a friend who never lubed his chain. I mean not at all. So we did an experiment. We both put on new chains, same make and size, and new sprockets. We ran them untill they were junk. I following my clean and lube regimen and he doing nothing but adjustments. Well you guessed it. They both lasted the same amount of time. About six months. The unlubed chain had stretched more than the lubed one and jingled and rattled a lot. The lubed chain would get kinks in it that had to be loosened with a mallet. The sprockets on both bikes were equally shot.
After that I wasn't so anal about lubeing chains.
Bob
I was into desert racing and riding for many years. I always removed the chains (these were not O'ring chains) and washed them in left-over premix gas. Then I would soak them in a warm mixture of 50w oil and grease and hang them to drain. This was done every week and took up a lot of my time.
I had a friend who never lubed his chain. I mean not at all. So we did an experiment. We both put on new chains, same make and size, and new sprockets. We ran them untill they were junk. I following my clean and lube regimen and he doing nothing but adjustments. Well you guessed it. They both lasted the same amount of time. About six months. The unlubed chain had stretched more than the lubed one and jingled and rattled a lot. The lubed chain would get kinks in it that had to be loosened with a mallet. The sprockets on both bikes were equally shot.
After that I wasn't so anal about lubeing chains.
Bob
On my street bikes I use to get 20k miles on the OEM chain and 10k to 15k miles on replacement chains, whether I bought them from the dealer as OEM replacements or not. I usually lubed every tank of gas, PJ chain lube was commonly used, and if I had time I'd spray and work the lube into the rollers. Starting at less than 10k miles the chains would often start kinking, so I'd unloosen the sprocket a lot and work the chain until it loosened up. I tried gear oil, and while it seemed to work on the rollers well it was real messy stuff.
I used lube to try to make the sprockets as well as the chain last, as even the o-ring chains still seemed to need lube for the rollers. Based on the stuff that I use around the garage now I'd be inclined to try to find some spray Mobil 1 grease if it's available, or something similar.
I used lube to try to make the sprockets as well as the chain last, as even the o-ring chains still seemed to need lube for the rollers. Based on the stuff that I use around the garage now I'd be inclined to try to find some spray Mobil 1 grease if it's available, or something similar.
Update.
I tried Chain wax for a little while on my new Chain and sprockets. It does not stay on very long at all. After 40 miles or less the chain is dry and is beginning to kink.
I switched to Clear guard.....It's worse.
I got some other stuff that contains "Synthetic sperm oil"
We will see how it does.
I tried Chain wax for a little while on my new Chain and sprockets. It does not stay on very long at all. After 40 miles or less the chain is dry and is beginning to kink.
I switched to Clear guard.....It's worse.
I got some other stuff that contains "Synthetic sperm oil"
Interesting story, Rob Wilson. I've spoken with several chain manufacturers about chain lube and one manufacturer said that one of their customers, a spark plug manufacturer, had a conveyor belt operated by a non-o-ring chain. The ceramic dust used to make the plugs was such an abrasive environment that they found that a completely dry chain outlasted a lubed one (even without o -rings!).
So, speaking to the original poster's problem, no lube may be better than lube in some conditions. In any case, you must condition the o-rings, and WD-40 is great for that.
So, speaking to the original poster's problem, no lube may be better than lube in some conditions. In any case, you must condition the o-rings, and WD-40 is great for that.
I've used Chain Wax on both the bikes I've ever owned and never had a problem with kinking. Could it be the chain needs replacing?
Chain wax dries "dry" on the chain... it won't be visibly oily, but if you touch the links, you should feel a waxy coating on the links which is protecting them from corrosion.
Also, make sure that you let the stuff set for 15 minutes before you ride the bike.
I think o-ring chains do benefit from lubrication of the rollers and the o-rings so I've used Honda Red Label chain lube for the last three years on my bikes. No fling-off, excellent chain wear and no crud buildup in the front sprocket area. Kerosene and a vegetable brush does a good job of cleaning.
Prior to this I mixed my own lube using gear lube and moly which actually worked pretty well but was messy unless I applied one drop to each roller/sideplate junction. Tedious and still got some fling-off on the wheel so I tried the Honda product.
I read about a lot of guys using the WD40 method. Must be something to it as many do this.
Prior to this I mixed my own lube using gear lube and moly which actually worked pretty well but was messy unless I applied one drop to each roller/sideplate junction. Tedious and still got some fling-off on the wheel so I tried the Honda product.
I read about a lot of guys using the WD40 method. Must be something to it as many do this.
Could it be the chain needs replacing?
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I hope not! It cant have 30 hours on it. I bought the chain and new sprockets as a kit.
i use the bel ray super clean after a ride, first cleaning w/ wd40 and scrubbing a bit. i find almost no dirt w/ the bel ray and it goes on white so you can see where you've sprayed. the lube is more for the sprocket than the x rings, i think.
cat
cat
Hello, all.
What do the pundits here think about using 90 weight gear oil for chain lube? I use it on a kawasaki KLR 250. I ride street only, no trails.
I use Redline MT-90 synthetic, left over from my Triumph GT6. It is good in your opinions?
What do the pundits here think about using 90 weight gear oil for chain lube? I use it on a kawasaki KLR 250. I ride street only, no trails.
I use Redline MT-90 synthetic, left over from my Triumph GT6. It is good in your opinions?
Contrary to some of the opinion posted here, There is in fact a need to lubricate the friction surface between the roller and the bushing. There is definately contact and friction between the two components during entry and exit of the working face of each tooth.
As far as using a 90w oil for chain lube...mfg's will often recommend using a heavy gear oil or motor oil for chain lubrication. And these items will be effective for about 5 minutes.
Oil films must maintain a certain thickness between the metal surfaces to be effective lubricants. The centrifigul force presented by the chain slings any sort of oil out of the needed areas fast.
Many lube co's have added loads of tackifier in an attempt to keep the oil or parrafin film present for longer. This led to chain lubes that are nothing but dirt magnets, and very hard to clean off.
The answer is to use dry-film chain lubes that have lubricating solids and/or chemicals, rather than staying lost in the 50's using motor or gear oil.
As far as using a 90w oil for chain lube...mfg's will often recommend using a heavy gear oil or motor oil for chain lubrication. And these items will be effective for about 5 minutes.
Oil films must maintain a certain thickness between the metal surfaces to be effective lubricants. The centrifigul force presented by the chain slings any sort of oil out of the needed areas fast.
Many lube co's have added loads of tackifier in an attempt to keep the oil or parrafin film present for longer. This led to chain lubes that are nothing but dirt magnets, and very hard to clean off.
The answer is to use dry-film chain lubes that have lubricating solids and/or chemicals, rather than staying lost in the 50's using motor or gear oil.
Jaybird,
Your post is correct regarding non-o-ring chains. The o-ring chains have the lube permanently sealed between the o-rings in the roller/bushing area. If you can get lube in there, the chain has failed, 'cause it can also get out.
Original poster (I'm too lazy to scroll back up), I think you're on the right track with the chain wax. The thoughts about it not lasting long are likely that it doesn't LOOK like it's still there, because it dries and therefore, doesn't attract dirt and dust--perfect. As to the kinking, I think it may be possible for the wax to promote some kinking action when it's cold. Did you check for kinking after a good ride when the chain is nice and warm/hot?
Your post is correct regarding non-o-ring chains. The o-ring chains have the lube permanently sealed between the o-rings in the roller/bushing area. If you can get lube in there, the chain has failed, 'cause it can also get out.
Original poster (I'm too lazy to scroll back up), I think you're on the right track with the chain wax. The thoughts about it not lasting long are likely that it doesn't LOOK like it's still there, because it dries and therefore, doesn't attract dirt and dust--perfect. As to the kinking, I think it may be possible for the wax to promote some kinking action when it's cold. Did you check for kinking after a good ride when the chain is nice and warm/hot?
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