Want to start auto-rx treatment, but...

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2sld3kf2bt

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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Impala with 99k on the clock. Since I bought the car with 35k miles on it, I have been using Valvoline synpower and 6k OCI's. It has been used for short trips mainly with an occasional 700 mile round-trip to visit the in-laws, but as of November I switched cars with the wife and now it is my 60+ mile daily commute car. The engine has a few leaks, which are all minor. I get only a drop on the ground here and there, and it consumes less than a quart in 6k miles.

I want to do an auto-rx treatment, but I am reluctant to switch to dino oil for the treatment, that it might shock the system and make the leaks worse. Am I way off in thinking that?

Should I just use synthetic with the ARX, or dino for the treatment and go back to synthetic after the treatment? If it won't make the leaks worse, I'd rather use dino so the ARX works to it's max potential.
 
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I'd use the syn as you are, and then do the A-Rx in the spring/summer if it seems like a good idea then.
 
Well if you're really worried about using dino with ARX, the ARX website says you can still use Grp III with ARX and it be effective. They recommend dino first, but check out the auto rx website's FAQ section under "My Dealership says that I Must Run Synthetic Oil". This should make you feel a little better since Synpower is a Grp III.
 
I would use the dino.

If you are worried about cold start ups, Being that you are in St. Louis, I would wait till the summer.

Also, reading all the Auto RX threads here and on the Auto RX website will help you figure out what you want to do for your own vehicle.
 
No problem in using conventional for the auto-rx phases. Your OCI's will be very low. Use a quality conventional such as Valvoline or Pennzoil YB and you'll be good to go.

I wouldn't recommend Synpower or any other Grp III with Auto-RX as results will take much longer to accomplish.
 
Originally Posted By: 2sld3kf2bt

but I am reluctant to switch to dino oil for the treatment, that it might shock the system
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Auto-rx might clean out seals and you might have a little more leak for a while
 
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ARX says that the important thing to do is to use dino oil during the rinse phase. So maybe go ahead and clean this winter with the Syn Power and then rinse this spring/summer with the dino oil.

From their site....

Q: Does it matter what type of oil I use with Auto-Rx®?
A: It does not matter what type of oil you use for the cleaning phase of the Auto-Rx® application. However, for maximum results we recommend that you use plain, non-synthetic oil for the ?rinse? phase. Please see Application Instructions for complete details.


Q: Why do you recommend non-synthetic oil for the rinse" phase of the application?
A: We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use-semi synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx® Application. Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the engine’s internal oil-lubricated parts. The goal is to rinse all the internal parts of this liquefied debris, and a good ?Dino Oil?, with its simple additive package, does the job very well.
 
Thanks for the quick replies...

I have gone through many posts here as well as the A-rx site. I was mainly worried that since I have been using synthetic for so long, that going back to dino might be bad for the seals. I think I will go ahead and use synthetic for the clean phase and dino for the rinse phase. I can handle it if it leaks a little more but eventually seals itself back up as a result of the treatment.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2sld3kf2bt
Thanks for the quick replies...

I have gone through many posts here as well as the A-rx site. I was mainly worried that since I have been using synthetic for so long, that going back to dino might be bad for the seals. I think I will go ahead and use synthetic for the clean phase and dino for the rinse phase. I can handle it if it leaks a little more but eventually seals itself back up as a result of the treatment.


Remember that your Synpower is a Grp III oil which is not a true synthetic. You will have no seal compatibility issues if you switch between this oil and conventional every other oil change if you so choose.

Seal compatibility is an old myth and no longer applies.
 
Forget the shock to the system notions. You're going to be (essentially) doing two 3k OCI's ..why waste money on a synth
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Unless you've got some fear factor with a Euro-Alloy ..(and there's sensible alternatives there) 3k on any synth is just not economically sensible.
 
Quote:
Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the engine’s internal oil-lubricated parts. The goal is to rinse all the internal parts of this liquefied debris, and a good ?Dino Oil?, with its simple additive package, does the job very well.


All dino oils contain non-polarizing, simple additives? I must ask Chevron about that and about that clingy, liquified debris!
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Originally Posted By: moribundman
Quote:
Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the engine’s internal oil-lubricated parts. The goal is to rinse all the internal parts of this liquefied debris, and a good ?Dino Oil?, with its simple additive package, does the job very well.


All dino oils contain non-polarizing, simple additives? I must ask Chevron about that and about that clingy, liquified debris!
LOL.gif


I've tried to engage Frank about that since ALL oils have polar elements. Have yet to get an explanation.
 
I'm pretty sure it's a matter of magnitude. The esters are going to want to bond to metal. The more you have in competition (in an ester based lubricant, for example) ..the more the process is stifled/slowed/delayed
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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Forget the shock to the system notions. You're going to be (essentially) doing two 3k OCI's ..why waste money on a synth
54.gif
Unless you've got some fear factor with a Euro-Alloy ..(and there's sensible alternatives there) 3k on any synth is just not economically sensible.
!!!!GARY!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
As others have said, the dino will be just fine with no reprocussions when going back to syn.


I'm with panthermike on this one.
 
Ok, thanks again. I am convinced now. I will use conventional for the clean and rinse phase. I want to get the most effective ARX treatment.
 
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