Suprising, I recently installed redline mc oil, and want the castrol 4t back, prety good oil I thought for the money. Its definitely not made from the standard castrol car stock, which I dont care for at all..
Victory 20w-40 semi-syn oil. . . .
- Thread starter Robster
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Robster
Thanks for the replies everyone--good discussion.
Phishin: If you read the most recent Amsoil m/c oil study, the Victory oil actually comes in 4th overall--not bad considering the competition. The shearing test specifically indicates that it stays in grade (40 weight)for all the tests--much better than many of the "favorites". Does the shear testing equate to real world?--I dunno.
I still believe that the designers take into account the shearing of the oil over the OCI when spec'ing their oil. For that reason I don't consider running an oil to the recommended OCI "abusive" to an engine .
As of right now, I'm thinking I'll stay with the Vic oil for the next OCI and send in a sample for testing when I change this batch out--I'll be sure to post the analysis.
The problem with the Amsoil tests is that it probably was not tested in a Victory bike. Different engines and designs sheer oil differently. Also I worry when any oil company reveals results of their own products versus competitors. Just like Castrol claimed their Edge was 5x better than Mobil 1 in such and such areas. If it is not tested by an independent and credible third party, I am always suspicious.
And yes I do believe running an oil to the OCI stated in the manufacturers manual is a bad thing unless backed up by a UOA. I have manuals from almost 30 years ago on carbureted V8's that wanted 7,500 mile OCI's on API SF oil. Anyone who has ever seen a UOA knows there would be horrible fuel dilution and sludge if you did that. But guess what? They want the thing to wear out so you buy one more from them. Just like how Toyota said my Type IV ATF was a "lifetime fill" when it is really toast by 40k miles.
Thanks for the replies everyone--good discussion.
Phishin: If you read the most recent Amsoil m/c oil study, the Victory oil actually comes in 4th overall--not bad considering the competition. The shearing test specifically indicates that it stays in grade (40 weight)for all the tests--much better than many of the "favorites". Does the shear testing equate to real world?--I dunno.
I still believe that the designers take into account the shearing of the oil over the OCI when spec'ing their oil. For that reason I don't consider running an oil to the recommended OCI "abusive" to an engine .
As of right now, I'm thinking I'll stay with the Vic oil for the next OCI and send in a sample for testing when I change this batch out--I'll be sure to post the analysis.
The problem with the Amsoil tests is that it probably was not tested in a Victory bike. Different engines and designs sheer oil differently. Also I worry when any oil company reveals results of their own products versus competitors. Just like Castrol claimed their Edge was 5x better than Mobil 1 in such and such areas. If it is not tested by an independent and credible third party, I am always suspicious.
And yes I do believe running an oil to the OCI stated in the manufacturers manual is a bad thing unless backed up by a UOA. I have manuals from almost 30 years ago on carbureted V8's that wanted 7,500 mile OCI's on API SF oil. Anyone who has ever seen a UOA knows there would be horrible fuel dilution and sludge if you did that. But guess what? They want the thing to wear out so you buy one more from them. Just like how Toyota said my Type IV ATF was a "lifetime fill" when it is really toast by 40k miles.
Last edited:
"lifetime fill" means it will last to the end of the warranty. LOL
ROD
ROD
Robenstein. . .I agree that the Amsoil test may be skewed toward their products, but I also believe that their tests are probably responsible for selling more Mobil 1 than Amsoil (because Mobil 1 always comes in 2nd place). If it was truly a rigged test, I'd think they'd place Mobil 1 further down the ranking.
Anyway, if you look at the Amsoil test here: http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G...ived/index.html and go to the shearing test chart, you'll see that the Victory oil stays in grade much better than some of the major brands.
I realize that the lab tests are NOT the same as running it in the bike, but I will submit a sample to Blackstone when I finish this run--I should have around 4300 miles on it at that point. I expect to see a fair amount of metals as this is only the 2nd oil change and is still breaking in. What I'm really interested in is TBN, viscosities, filtration efficiency and any fuel contamination.
This is my first Victory motorcycle and so far I'm impressed with it--very solid machine with much comfort, good power / torque, and good handling for it's size. I'd put it on par with the Ultra Classic I owned. Reliability?. . .ask me in a year.
Anyway, if you look at the Amsoil test here: http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G...ived/index.html and go to the shearing test chart, you'll see that the Victory oil stays in grade much better than some of the major brands.
I realize that the lab tests are NOT the same as running it in the bike, but I will submit a sample to Blackstone when I finish this run--I should have around 4300 miles on it at that point. I expect to see a fair amount of metals as this is only the 2nd oil change and is still breaking in. What I'm really interested in is TBN, viscosities, filtration efficiency and any fuel contamination.
This is my first Victory motorcycle and so far I'm impressed with it--very solid machine with much comfort, good power / torque, and good handling for it's size. I'd put it on par with the Ultra Classic I owned. Reliability?. . .ask me in a year.
Originally Posted By: Robster
I still believe that the designers take into account the shearing of the oil over the OCI when spec'ing their oil. For that reason I don't consider running an oil to the recommended OCI "abusive" to an engine .
Robster,
Do you mean that when the Victories engineers spec a 20w40 they know it will shear down to a 30 weight and that is what they believe is really needed for the engine? This logic assumes they are testing and doing UOAs of their own and may in fact have decades of experience with oils in shared sump engines and how they hold up to determine proper OCIs. If true wouldn't shorter than recommended OCIs be possibly detrimental?
That seems to be what has been posted on the home page of this very website (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/) but I am not sure since it is based on autos.
Wouldn't Honda, Yamaha, Victory, HD give up a competitive advantage in product reliability if they did not run UOAs and recommend oil and OCIs accordingly? If a 20w-40 shears down to a 30 wt is that what the manufacturer expected and as such is it OK? It seems like this shouldn't be a dark secret.
I still believe that the designers take into account the shearing of the oil over the OCI when spec'ing their oil. For that reason I don't consider running an oil to the recommended OCI "abusive" to an engine .
Robster,
Do you mean that when the Victories engineers spec a 20w40 they know it will shear down to a 30 weight and that is what they believe is really needed for the engine? This logic assumes they are testing and doing UOAs of their own and may in fact have decades of experience with oils in shared sump engines and how they hold up to determine proper OCIs. If true wouldn't shorter than recommended OCIs be possibly detrimental?
That seems to be what has been posted on the home page of this very website (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/) but I am not sure since it is based on autos.
Wouldn't Honda, Yamaha, Victory, HD give up a competitive advantage in product reliability if they did not run UOAs and recommend oil and OCIs accordingly? If a 20w-40 shears down to a 30 wt is that what the manufacturer expected and as such is it OK? It seems like this shouldn't be a dark secret.
@David_Dennis: Yeah, I believe that the engineers know (hopefully from years of good education) that oil shears as it's used and they spec the OCI based on an oil that meets a certain spec to account for that shearing / depletion of additives.
I don't think there's any secret to this; their recommendations are in black and white in the owners manual--they spec the oil and the OCI. Use that oil for that OCI and you're good to go. It only gets weird when we at BITOG start speculating about the engineers intentions and motives without data to back it up.
When I do the UOA on this batch of used Vic oil, I'll post it here (for better or worse) for everyone to look at and then we can decide whether it stood the test of real-world operation.
Thanks for the comments!--good discussion on a brand that doesn't get a lot of attention around here!
I don't think there's any secret to this; their recommendations are in black and white in the owners manual--they spec the oil and the OCI. Use that oil for that OCI and you're good to go. It only gets weird when we at BITOG start speculating about the engineers intentions and motives without data to back it up.
When I do the UOA on this batch of used Vic oil, I'll post it here (for better or worse) for everyone to look at and then we can decide whether it stood the test of real-world operation.
Thanks for the comments!--good discussion on a brand that doesn't get a lot of attention around here!
Originally Posted By: Robster
When I do the UOA on this batch of used Vic oil, I'll post it here (for better or worse) for everyone to look at and then we can decide whether it stood the test of real-world operation.
I for one, can't wait for this UOA. I'm very interested to see what happens when you run a semi-synthetic Group III oil for 5000+ miles in an air-cooled V-Twin.
The conclusions depend on what you expect from your bike. But the reality is, no one can predict when an engine will be worn-out by comparing Fe, Cu, and Pb numbers in a series of UOA's.
What I'm saying is, let's just say you get these results from running a 5000 mile OCI with that 20w40 oil you're running:
Fe = 100ppm, which is 20ppm/1000 miles
Cu = 50ppm, which is 10ppm/1000 miles
Pb = 25ppm, which is 5ppm/1000 miles
And let's say you run an exotic ester-based oil for 1500 miles and get:
Fe = 4 ppm/1000 miles
Cu = 2 ppm/1000 miles
Pb = 1 ppm/1000 miles
It appears that the engine is wearing 5X faster with the 20w40 oil. But you are paying a lot of extra money running 1500 OCI's with an exotic oil. Will your V-Twin last 5 times longer with the exotic oil vs. the semi-synthetic stuff? I doubt it. It might. Who knows.
It may take you 60k miles to wear the engine out running 5k mile OCI's with the 20w40 oil....and maybe you have desire to keep the bike that long.
But, I do think you're nuts if you think that the engineers really count on an oil sheering. In actuality, the engineers know that it doesn't really matter if you're running a 40 weight or a 30 weight oil in your bike....for it to last past the warranty period.
When I do the UOA on this batch of used Vic oil, I'll post it here (for better or worse) for everyone to look at and then we can decide whether it stood the test of real-world operation.
I for one, can't wait for this UOA. I'm very interested to see what happens when you run a semi-synthetic Group III oil for 5000+ miles in an air-cooled V-Twin.
The conclusions depend on what you expect from your bike. But the reality is, no one can predict when an engine will be worn-out by comparing Fe, Cu, and Pb numbers in a series of UOA's.
What I'm saying is, let's just say you get these results from running a 5000 mile OCI with that 20w40 oil you're running:
Fe = 100ppm, which is 20ppm/1000 miles
Cu = 50ppm, which is 10ppm/1000 miles
Pb = 25ppm, which is 5ppm/1000 miles
And let's say you run an exotic ester-based oil for 1500 miles and get:
Fe = 4 ppm/1000 miles
Cu = 2 ppm/1000 miles
Pb = 1 ppm/1000 miles
It appears that the engine is wearing 5X faster with the 20w40 oil. But you are paying a lot of extra money running 1500 OCI's with an exotic oil. Will your V-Twin last 5 times longer with the exotic oil vs. the semi-synthetic stuff? I doubt it. It might. Who knows.
It may take you 60k miles to wear the engine out running 5k mile OCI's with the 20w40 oil....and maybe you have desire to keep the bike that long.
But, I do think you're nuts if you think that the engineers really count on an oil sheering. In actuality, the engineers know that it doesn't really matter if you're running a 40 weight or a 30 weight oil in your bike....for it to last past the warranty period.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Phishin
In actuality, the engineers know that it doesn't really matter if you're running a 40 weight or a 30 weight oil in your bike....for it to last past the warranty period.
maybe they figure those numbers in and determine that the parts will wear out 5k after the warranty so you take it to the shop for repairs?
built in revenue for the shop!
In actuality, the engineers know that it doesn't really matter if you're running a 40 weight or a 30 weight oil in your bike....for it to last past the warranty period.
maybe they figure those numbers in and determine that the parts will wear out 5k after the warranty so you take it to the shop for repairs?
built in revenue for the shop!
Originally Posted By: sunruh
maybe they figure those numbers in and determine that the parts will wear out 5k after the warranty so you take it to the shop for repairs?
built in revenue for the shop!
I know one thing for sure........
If a bike is spec'ed for 40 weight oil and 5k mile OCI's....and if pretty much every UOA on BITOG has shown that the oil will drop a grade after 1500-2000 miles, then I'm NOT gonna assume that it's fine to run a 30 weight oil in my bike for the remainder 3000-3500 miles of the OCI.
INSTEAD, I'm gonna run a 50 weight oil, knowing that before I get to the half way point in my OCI, that I'll be in spec with an oil that's sheared down to a 40 weight.
Especially in an air-cooled V-Twin. Holy Cow.
All my bikes are water-cooled. I've never gone past 1000 miles on any oil. Because I want to run the correct viscosity all the time. I don't want to pour in the right viscosity and run a thin oil after 1000 miles....and I don't want to pour in an oil too thick, waiting for it to be sheared into spec. I just run the correct spec'ed oil, and change it frequently.
It's just what I do.
But if you're gonna run an oil that's out of spec, pour in something on the heavy side, and let it shear down into grade. Don't run thin oil in an air cooled V-Twin.....unless you hate your bike.
maybe they figure those numbers in and determine that the parts will wear out 5k after the warranty so you take it to the shop for repairs?
built in revenue for the shop!
I know one thing for sure........
If a bike is spec'ed for 40 weight oil and 5k mile OCI's....and if pretty much every UOA on BITOG has shown that the oil will drop a grade after 1500-2000 miles, then I'm NOT gonna assume that it's fine to run a 30 weight oil in my bike for the remainder 3000-3500 miles of the OCI.
INSTEAD, I'm gonna run a 50 weight oil, knowing that before I get to the half way point in my OCI, that I'll be in spec with an oil that's sheared down to a 40 weight.
Especially in an air-cooled V-Twin. Holy Cow.
All my bikes are water-cooled. I've never gone past 1000 miles on any oil. Because I want to run the correct viscosity all the time. I don't want to pour in the right viscosity and run a thin oil after 1000 miles....and I don't want to pour in an oil too thick, waiting for it to be sheared into spec. I just run the correct spec'ed oil, and change it frequently.
It's just what I do.
But if you're gonna run an oil that's out of spec, pour in something on the heavy side, and let it shear down into grade. Don't run thin oil in an air cooled V-Twin.....unless you hate your bike.
Last edited:
If you look at the different UOA'S where the oil has sheared a grade or two, there's usually a remark from Blackstone that says that even tho it dropped a grade, it didn't effect the wear rate or cause any ill effects. So I also believe the mfgrs that say to use this or that weight oil in their motor, know from testing that it will shear out of grade. But by recommending a grade higher, once the shear factor kicks in, the oil will be right where the engineers say it should be. Car guys experiment with lighter wt oils to see what they can get from it as far as mileage and maybe a little HP gain. Doing the same with a street bike should work the same. Harley recommends using a straight 60 wt oil in the heat of summer,and a 10w 40 wt in the winter.So there's a pretty good fudge factor figured in .,,
Last edited:
Just to keep you guys up-to-date, here are some observations. . . .my oil currently has 3255 miles on it. I know color don't mean much around here, but here's what I can tell ya: it's far from black. . .kind of a light brown color. It doesn't seem like it's thinned out at all based on it's consistency when it was new. I haven't added any oil during this OCI. I'm using a WIX filter. No weird start-up noises to report. I've done a mix of local riding in stop / go, hot weather and a recent 800 mile trip at mostly highway speeds with the cruise control set. The engine has smoothed out considerably since new, as has the shifting. I hope to get another long trip under my belt before this OCI is finished.
I think the riding conditions mentioned above describe the mixed riding that many of us do over a season and should yield a very real-world UOA. As I said before, as the bike is still breaking in, I expect metals to read higher than normal for this OCI. I hope to do the UOA within a month.
I think the riding conditions mentioned above describe the mixed riding that many of us do over a season and should yield a very real-world UOA. As I said before, as the bike is still breaking in, I expect metals to read higher than normal for this OCI. I hope to do the UOA within a month.
I just dumped the Mobil 1 V twin 20w50 out of my air cooled, shared sump Triumph today. Based on shifting it was shot....had 3k on it.
I am eager to see this report also. But its hard to tell since the bike is newer and wear numbers are sort of high on bikes as they wear in the first couple OCI's.
I am eager to see this report also. But its hard to tell since the bike is newer and wear numbers are sort of high on bikes as they wear in the first couple OCI's.
@Robenstein. . .have you ever done a UOA on the Triumph? Would be interesting to see how the Mobil 1 held up to shearing. I ran Mobil 1 v-twin in a BMW R1150RT (dry clutch) with amazing results--did a 7500 mile OCI with decent numbers in the UOA.
For those interested. . .up to now (according to the on-board computer) I've averaged 46 MPG over this OCI so far. If that average stays about the same for the rest of the OCI, that equates to about 108 hrs. of engine operation over 5000 miles. Most of the operation is at about a 2500 RPM average (5100 RPM redline). From this info I can approximate average engine output at about 49%.
So we have 49% average power output over 108 hrs. of operation--it doesn't seem like this engine is working very hard most of the time.
Compare this operation to the (horizontally opposed, air-cooled) airplane engine I operate during working hours. That engine operates (usually) at 75% power during cruise and WOT at takeoff and max sustainable power during climb-out. It too uses 15w-50 semi-syn (Shell) oil and operates at high-altitudes and often high temps; 2450-2500 RPMs are normal. This engine gets oil changes every 50 hours of operation. The tolerances for this engine aren't nearly as tight as the m/c engine and the 100LL fuel is quite dirty compared to MOGAS--the oil goes black quickly. There aren't as many metallic additives in aircraft engine oil to protect the engine parts--the base oil is the primary line of defense against wear with a non-metallic anti-scuff additive in the oil.
Where am I going with this?--here's my theory: there's no reason that a m/c shouldn't be able to go to the recommended 5000 mile OCI (108 hrs. of operation)considering how a similar (yet different) aircraft engine goes 50 hours (OCIs) in much tougher conditions with an oil that (by necessity) is less robust from an additive standpoint.
As said before. . . .excellent discussion!
For those interested. . .up to now (according to the on-board computer) I've averaged 46 MPG over this OCI so far. If that average stays about the same for the rest of the OCI, that equates to about 108 hrs. of engine operation over 5000 miles. Most of the operation is at about a 2500 RPM average (5100 RPM redline). From this info I can approximate average engine output at about 49%.
So we have 49% average power output over 108 hrs. of operation--it doesn't seem like this engine is working very hard most of the time.
Compare this operation to the (horizontally opposed, air-cooled) airplane engine I operate during working hours. That engine operates (usually) at 75% power during cruise and WOT at takeoff and max sustainable power during climb-out. It too uses 15w-50 semi-syn (Shell) oil and operates at high-altitudes and often high temps; 2450-2500 RPMs are normal. This engine gets oil changes every 50 hours of operation. The tolerances for this engine aren't nearly as tight as the m/c engine and the 100LL fuel is quite dirty compared to MOGAS--the oil goes black quickly. There aren't as many metallic additives in aircraft engine oil to protect the engine parts--the base oil is the primary line of defense against wear with a non-metallic anti-scuff additive in the oil.
Where am I going with this?--here's my theory: there's no reason that a m/c shouldn't be able to go to the recommended 5000 mile OCI (108 hrs. of operation)considering how a similar (yet different) aircraft engine goes 50 hours (OCIs) in much tougher conditions with an oil that (by necessity) is less robust from an additive standpoint.
As said before. . . .excellent discussion!
But your airplane engine oil does not lubricate essentially three components like your motorcycle(engine,primary, trans).
And no I havent done a UOA on the Triumph yet. I spent all my fun money on new tires, brakes, and the tools/parts needed to do the valve clearance adjustment. But I will tell you almost no one runs their 790/865cc Triumph mills the 6k mile reccomended OCI. But my engine love over 4k rpm and makes peak power at nearly 7k. Its a whole other beast versus a long stroke v twin.
And no I havent done a UOA on the Triumph yet. I spent all my fun money on new tires, brakes, and the tools/parts needed to do the valve clearance adjustment. But I will tell you almost no one runs their 790/865cc Triumph mills the 6k mile reccomended OCI. But my engine love over 4k rpm and makes peak power at nearly 7k. Its a whole other beast versus a long stroke v twin.
I just noticed that I put 46 MPG in the post above, when I meant 46 MPH. . .oops. Wish I could edit it. . .
@Robenstein. . . I'm not too familiar with Triumphs, but the people I know that have 'em love 'em. I might own one someday, who knows.
Anyway. . .yeah, there are differences in the two engines, the biggest of which is the lack of a clutch in the aircraft engine. Aside from that, the oil lubes pretty much the same type of stuff--rotating gears, cams and pistons among other things. The primary in the Vic engine is comprised of gears (not a chain), and the overhead cams are chain driven. I will concede that the aircraft engine has a larger sump, but it's proportionate to the larger displacement of the engine.
I still think they're more similar than dis-similar. Just my two cents.
@Robenstein. . . I'm not too familiar with Triumphs, but the people I know that have 'em love 'em. I might own one someday, who knows.
Anyway. . .yeah, there are differences in the two engines, the biggest of which is the lack of a clutch in the aircraft engine. Aside from that, the oil lubes pretty much the same type of stuff--rotating gears, cams and pistons among other things. The primary in the Vic engine is comprised of gears (not a chain), and the overhead cams are chain driven. I will concede that the aircraft engine has a larger sump, but it's proportionate to the larger displacement of the engine.
I still think they're more similar than dis-similar. Just my two cents.
Gears is what kills oil though. You have a gear driven primary and gears in your trans. And like I mentioned before, I have seen factory reccomendations that are totally unrealistic. My 86 Monte Carlo SS manual said to go 7,500 miles on the oil(dino 5w30). No way the oil held up that long on a carbed V8 and it was FULL of sludge when I got it at 70k miles. And Toyota again told me that my ATF was good for 100k miles/Lifetime. All UOA's of Type IV ATF show it wont last half that long.
Engineers sometimes make mistakes and sometimes do it on purpose.
As for the Triumph...I LOVE IT! It is light, smooth, handles well, and it was a lot of bike for the money. A couple of guys have nearly 130k on their 865cc twins with no major breakdowns, just maintenance. Only gripe I had was the OEM pipes are so restrictive and quiet, the bike sounded like a sewing machine and was a bit snatchy on the throttle until I put free flowing pipes and a richer tune in it.
Engineers sometimes make mistakes and sometimes do it on purpose.
As for the Triumph...I LOVE IT! It is light, smooth, handles well, and it was a lot of bike for the money. A couple of guys have nearly 130k on their 865cc twins with no major breakdowns, just maintenance. Only gripe I had was the OEM pipes are so restrictive and quiet, the bike sounded like a sewing machine and was a bit snatchy on the throttle until I put free flowing pipes and a richer tune in it.
I'm keeping the Vic all stock--the pipes are very quiet until you get up to 75-80 MPH and then they roar pretty well. Because of the distances I sometimes do, it's nice to have the quiet ones for those trips. I hear a lot of mechanical noise because of it, but I can also hear the radio when I want to. The stock fueling is of course, very lean but I get decent gas mileage for a big bike and it still performs well. Overall, I like it just as it is and won't be changing much. . .
Just did the oil change and took the sample for Blackstone. Here are the numbers:
Bike: 2013 Cross Country Tour (v-twin) air / oil cooled
Total mileage on bike: 5268
Mileage on this OCI: 4508.6
Average speed during OCI (from bike computer): 45.2 MPH
4508.6 mi. / 45.2 mph (average) = 99.74 hours on this OCI
WIX filter
This OCI encompassed a lot of local riding in hot PA temps, some stop / go traffic, 1000+ mile trip in moderate heat and sub 40F temps recently during commutes to work. I frequently ride on twisty, hilly roads and don't spare the throttle--"spirited" would be a good descriptor.
When drained, the oil was NOT black. . .dark brown. The bike is / was running great with no unusual startup noises--very nice running engine. I replaced this oil with the same Victory 20w-40 semi-syn and a Victory filter. On start-up with the new oil / filter, the engine sounded exactly the same as with the old oil. On past bikes (BMW for instance), new oil made a marked difference in engine sound. . . .not so with this bike.
I'll be sending this sample on Tuesday. As this is the 2nd OCI for this bike I expect metals to be elevated, but I'm otherwise optimistic that it held up well. Stay tuned. . . .
Bike: 2013 Cross Country Tour (v-twin) air / oil cooled
Total mileage on bike: 5268
Mileage on this OCI: 4508.6
Average speed during OCI (from bike computer): 45.2 MPH
4508.6 mi. / 45.2 mph (average) = 99.74 hours on this OCI
WIX filter
This OCI encompassed a lot of local riding in hot PA temps, some stop / go traffic, 1000+ mile trip in moderate heat and sub 40F temps recently during commutes to work. I frequently ride on twisty, hilly roads and don't spare the throttle--"spirited" would be a good descriptor.
When drained, the oil was NOT black. . .dark brown. The bike is / was running great with no unusual startup noises--very nice running engine. I replaced this oil with the same Victory 20w-40 semi-syn and a Victory filter. On start-up with the new oil / filter, the engine sounded exactly the same as with the old oil. On past bikes (BMW for instance), new oil made a marked difference in engine sound. . . .not so with this bike.
I'll be sending this sample on Tuesday. As this is the 2nd OCI for this bike I expect metals to be elevated, but I'm otherwise optimistic that it held up well. Stay tuned. . . .
Oil color really does not indicate oil performance. That is an old wives tale. For instance Kendall GT1 syn blend in my Scion always comes out brown, but my Quaker State Ultimate Durability comes out much darker. Both put up excellent numbers in UOA's on here.
Yeah. . .I realize color doesn't mean much, but it was an observation I made and some people want to know about it.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Oil color really does not indicate oil performance. That is an old wives tale. For instance Kendall GT1 syn blend in my Scion always comes out brown, but my Quaker State Ultimate Durability comes out much darker. Both put up excellent numbers in UOA's on here.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Oil color really does not indicate oil performance. That is an old wives tale. For instance Kendall GT1 syn blend in my Scion always comes out brown, but my Quaker State Ultimate Durability comes out much darker. Both put up excellent numbers in UOA's on here.
- Status
