Snagglefoot
Thread starter
Are you ready? A Zamboni.What's in the shed that's freezing temperatures are damaging?
Are you ready? A Zamboni.What's in the shed that's freezing temperatures are damaging?
I think is it. A wall mounted thermostat is just run in series with the heater. The heat was a baseboard heater and might have had a thermostat built in. It was replaced with the present heater which had no thermostat. Theoretically it’s giving out 100% of it can give, but something must be wrong with the wiring or the cut out sensor. Maybe it’s fried.Where is the thermostat? seems like its setup for an external thermostat?
Actually it’s got two 15 A breakers attached together at the box. We haven’t opened the electrical box up yet to check what’s up.15 amps at 240V still isn't much power. It's two space heaters or two hair dryers. The heater is undersized for the space it's expected to heat. It's not hot to the touch because the fan does a great job of distributing what heat it can make, around the room.
You have an unused neutral white wire to futureproof that circuit, and/or to meet code.
That thing's wired up fine. Anything that can also take 208V is "pure" 2xx voltage, as 208 is "Y-phase" and at one time was cheaper. There was no expectation of having 125V available with it.
That just controls the fan. It's not a high temp safety I don't think. 175F would be the on and then off with a 40F lower difference. You can find many different ranges if you want to change that.I will check the voltages. Regarding the red gizmo, I see it’s a thermal cutout with a low setting at 40 F. Not sure if the high number is 175 F. I would imagine the inside of the case is pretty hot from those coils. We found the unit is cutting out at just around freezing and is not keeping the room warm.
Are you ready? A Zamboni.
Here is the photo. The red and black both into the cut out, then the coil.That just controls the fan. It's not a high temp safety I don't think. 175F would be the on and then off with a 40F lower difference. You can find many different ranges if you want to change that.
High thermal protect would be over 200F-250F usually. If you follow the red and black wires were do they go? And the Red and Black at the sensor cannot be common with the 240V feed or it would be a dead short. Probably just controlling one side of the 240V to turn fan on and off like the cheap contactors in a outside AC unit.
Yup, it typically has some water in its tank, and needs the fabric water spreader to be unthawed. Zamboni’s normally run in arenas at temperatures close to 60 F. This one is run outside at temps down to about 0 F.Does the Zamboni have to be stored someplace that doesn't get below freezing?
A device that is 220v totally does not need a neutral.. Just two hot and a ground. Sometimes there is a 110V fan or light and then you would need a neutral. The two hot wires would go to a ganged circuit breaker covering two slots.We have a Lions Club storage building that basically froze inside during the last cold snap. There is a metal clad cable with four conductors inside it. The heating unit does not have remote thermostat and there is no adjustable thermostat on the unit. We’re not convinced it was getting the full 220 V, and the also the unit was shutting off at too low of a temp.
The line to the heating unit has a red and black, both hot, a white neutral and a green ground. The heater just has a red and black, but no white. The unit does have an electric fan and the fan blows hard.
I take it the white neutral is used to help power the 110 V motor and the red and black hot wires power the heating element. What happens with the white wire? We can’t see where this wire goes and we’re concerned the unit was wired wrong. I suspect the fan was wired with one white and one black, and the red and Is powering the coil, but the black is not. We’ll be taking a look later this week. Currently, everything is wrapped with electrical tape. The clad cable is connected to two 15 amp breakers latched together. Any ideas? Thanks. Yes we know to get an electrician but we want to see if we need a new heating unit first. Thanks.
You tube doesn’t seem to address this case very well.
Yeah the way a box works is you have a breaker for -120V and one for +120V, that gives you 240 volts at 15 amps. (The white wire is zero volts so you can get 120 from either the red or black and the white.) A "regular" circuit is 120V at 15 or 20 amps and normal space heaters/ hair dryers are spec'd to use all of that. So this heater, despite looking industrial and amazing, is at most 2x as powerful as a typical home appliance. Since its nameplate is 2000 watts, that's less than that but slightly more than a 120V circuit can handle. Check your hair dryer, it'll boast around 1800.Actually it’s got two 15 A breakers attached together at the box. We haven’t opened the electrical box up yet to check what’s up.
Correct. It never stops and it is a little warm. The other characteristic is that clicks off while the inside of the building is still cold.And the fan never stops? The air coming out should feel at least a little warm.
About 600 square ft.15 amps at 240V still isn't much power. It's two space heaters or two hair dryers. The heater is undersized for the space it's expected to heat. It's not hot to the touch because the fan does a great job of distributing what heat it can make, around the room.
You have an unused neutral white wire to futureproof that circuit, and/or to meet code.
That thing's wired up fine. Anything that can also take 208V is "pure" 2xx voltage, as 208 is "Y-phase" and at one time was cheaper. There was no expectation of having 125V available with it.
What kind of square footage is this expected to cover?
It never stops
Sometimes it's like pulling teeth...is that clicks off
The red and black as it comes into the device cannot be connected together. If that is what is going to that thermal switch it would short out when it activates.Here is the photo. The red and black both into the cut out, then the coil.