turbo track miata Rotella Synth UOA

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

hustler

Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Messages
82
Location
Dallas
This is a built 1896cc motor with a turbo and run really, really, really hard at the track tuned at 11.5:1 AFR in load. This was the 2nd and 3rd "track days" on this motor after about 8k street miles.

What are your thoughts on this? I should note that I have a weird issue where the WBO2 reads lean after a few laps (I guess I'm heat-soaking the huge intercooler) and it reads .2-.4 lean. I just added fuel accross the board, then drove home 5-hours on that rich table...basically 13.8 in cruise. I think I'll have less dilution next time.
vh8epi.jpg
 
Wow. You made RTS beg for mercy.

If the driving condition are as hard as you say, and the engine is this young, these are probaly good numbers.

RTS is probably a good choice b/c it is inexpensive for frequent changes. I don't know if yu could get similar numbers by running a dino 15W-40; but if you tried that, it would save you a bit more money. When yu change oil this often in an apllication, those savings can add up fast.......
 
I'd like to see if I can get the fuel out of the oil and run 3 track days on the oil.

I have some oil in the car right now with 1 track event/2-hours on it, and it ran good AFR's for the day. I'm tempted to send that back in before I take the car 3-hours away for a 2-day event. I'd like to run dino Rotella but right now oil temps are around 26* sustained...so I can't entertain that option until I get a bigger oil cooler (8'x10' is not enough).

What should I think about the iron count? I'm on my 4th or 5th change...but most cars Blackstone Looks at don't spend 5-hours racing at 4000-7200rpm. I expect this motor to last 3-5 years at the most. I'd like to get 100 track events on it, any more I think is a little unreasonable.


Yeah, I drive this car hard. I run it on wastegate pressure which is 11psi...230whp/225wtq on a Mustang Dyno and I easily had the 2nd fastest street car due to the owner taking out the C6Z on RA-1's. I usually run this miata with the CMC cars at the track.
 
Last edited:
This engine is fairy new, so your wear levels will be a bit higher for a while.

At least you're being realistic about how long you will get out of the engine.

Maybe you don't want to run 'regular dino' HDEO, but maybe if you switched to a race oil, like Brad Penn 'Penngrade 1' or Valvoline VR-1, you'd save yourself a bit with the frequent changes? Ever though of getting an oil sponsor?
 
Well given your set up and usage I would say that RTS is doing a good job. I would not drive the car long on the same oil after track days but if you can afford to track it you can afford to change the oil after wards!

Your cold air intake is letting in way too much dirt and this is going to wear the engine out. If you are running a K&N get a prefilter to put around it. The prefilter is a foam wrap that will keep the dirt out with out hurting the flow realy of the K&N!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning


Your cold air intake is letting in way too much dirt and this is going to wear the engine out.


Quote:
I expect this motor to last 3-5 years at the most. I'd like to get 100 track events on it, any more I think is a little unreasonable.


I think his refresh rate will offset most of the dirt infiltration effects.
 
I should note that I have a blow off valve that is open at idle. I can either put the 11psi spring back in and have some comrpressor surge, or let it stay open at idle.

I just have a filter on the compressor housing, no cold air [censored] to deal with...just a little function over form.

I may get a big foam filter.
 
Last edited:
It did exceptional. I don't see any other oil doing any better. It really fought wear during all that fuel dilution.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Wow. You made RTS beg for mercy.



I dont get this statement.

I think it held up rather well considering the variables involved.

There is a LOT of fuel dilution, if not for that the visc and flash would be much higher.
 
I think it is an awesome report. How hard is 'very very hard'? What RPM max, what RPM average? I'm just curious.

EDIT: Oh, I see: "What should I think about the iron count? I'm on my 4th or 5th change...but most cars Blackstone Looks at don't spend 5-hours racing at 4000-7200rpm. I expect this motor to last 3-5 years at the most. I'd like to get 100 track events on it, any more I think is a little unreasonable."

Did I read the engine had around 8k miles on it? That's beautiful wear for still breaking in and having a hard track run with those RPM and boost. This oil proves itself more and more everyday. I'm not saying another oil wouldn't do just as well, although it'd be hard, but I am saying Rotella-T 5w-40 is a very robust oil at a great price. Priced too cheap, but I ain't complaining :)
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Wow. You made RTS beg for mercy.



I dont get this statement.

I think it held up rather well considering the variables involved.

There is a LOT of fuel dilution, if not for that the visc and flash would be much higher.


I just meant that in 1k miles, he took a stout, 15.5-cst oil down to 10.87-cst.

That's a big drop for any oil to endure so quickly.
 
Definitely cut it down to size. That'll teach it!
grin2.gif
Stout HDEO? XHVI base stock? Well, we'll see about that!!

grin2.gif


I doubt that any oil could come out unscathed.
 
Unfortunately I ran 13.8 in cruise on the way home, and as fat as 11.2:1 on the track, until it heat-soaked and ran 11.5:1.

I typically cruise at 15.6:1 and in boost at 11.5:1. I'm tempted to send a sample of the oil I have in now, with 2-track hours, and see what it does.

Thoughts? Any thoughts on trying another oil? I feel like the data I have currently is flawed due to my tune issue. I need a v-mount set-up, not the stacked heat exchangers.
 
Your data isn't what it could be because of the tune.

Everyone is going to come in here recommending you an oil.. GC 0W-30, M1 0W-40, PP 10W-30, Edge, M1 TDT...

Then some will recommend Valvoline VR1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, etc..

But I'm going to say stick with the RTS. Hard to beat.
 
260*f

I'm about to get a more efficient oil cooler made. However, it will be 2 of them and both get direct air (like this one but more efficient).
 
How's your cooling system handling the load? It would be more compact to use a coolant:eek:il heat exchanger. Much more efficient if you've got the cooling capacity.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

KonaN
2022 Kona N HPL Premium PCMO 5W30 UOA
2 3
Replies
53
Views
10K
kschachn
TiGeo
2018 VW Sportwagen 52K 6K OCI Liquimoly Molygen 5W40 w/track use
Replies
15
Views
3K
edyvw
K
2022 Volkswagen Taos SE, FWD - 3,000 mile review
2 3 4
Replies
74
Views
19K
K.Aoi
A
Ano(the)r 0w20 - FA20 Engine Thread
2
Replies
28
Views
14K
kschachn
W
20,000 miles in a CX-5 GT-R
3 4 5
Replies
91
Views
19K
14Accent
Back
Top