Toro 2-stroke snowblower exhaust question

[Touring5]

Today I ran the tank dry on my 13-year old Toro snowblower and noticed that the muffler/exhaust was exhibiting a lot of bouncing/vibration (lots of movement). The engine was pretty much stationary.

I looked in the owners manual to see if it showed how the muffler is mounted (perhaps with flexible mounts), but there is no mention of anything about the engine in the manual other than spark plug change and gas/oil fuel mixture. It has the GTS engine.

It seems to have acted like this for a while, but I'm asking if anyone knows if this is normal. It almost looked like it was ready to fall off and since I have at least 8 months before I'll need to use it again, I should have ample opportunity to fix it if necessary.

 

[Six_in_a_row]

Originally Posted By: Touring5
Today I ran the tank dry on my 13-year old Toro snowblower and noticed that the muffler/exhaust was exhibiting a lot of bouncing/vibration (lots of movement). The engine was pretty much stationary.

I looked in the owners manual to see if it showed how the muffler is mounted (perhaps with flexible mounts), but there is no mention of anything about the engine in the manual other than spark plug change and gas/oil fuel mixture. It has the GTS engine.

It seems to have acted like this for a while, but I'm asking if anyone knows if this is normal. It almost looked like it was ready to fall off and since I have at least 8 months before I'll need to use it again, I should have ample opportunity to fix it if necessary.


Touring5,

My 1999 model 38440 (20", 6.5 HP GTS) had a similar problem with the muffler rattling. My muffler is attached to the cylinder head with two long hex head machine screws that had become loose.

I also replaced the torn muffler/exhaust port gasket with a new part from the local Toro shop. The replacement metal gasket cost about $5.00. I torqued the two machine screws using aluminum anti-seize compound. To do this, I had to remove the plastic covering, a tedious job. I also took the opportunity to replace the fuel filter.

I agree that this project best left to warmer weather.

 

[Touring5]

Thanks.

That's along the line of what I was thinking might be going on. Removing the chute, shroud, etc. looks to be a bit time-consuming - I've never had to remove the top half. I've had it half apart and replaced the paddles and primer bulb. I wasn't even aware of a fuel filter, but might as well do that while I'm in there.

Sounds like a really nice project for later this month or April (whenever this winter finally comes to an end....).

 

[JTK]

Is it the Suzuki engine? I know the metal heat shielding that was integrated with the plastic cover on my Toro CCR2000 would shake like crazy, but the muffler/exhaust itself on the engine was solid. It was basically the same as this, minus the chrome exhaust cover.

Joel

 

[Touring5]

For some reason I thought it was a Tecumseh (not sure where I might have gotten that idea), but the manual mentions nothing about the motor.

The heat shield and pipe vibrate (i.e. move) a lot. It really acts like something is loose and makes a very noticeable rattling sound.

 

[Kestas]

There are probably fatigue cracks somewhere. Unbolt the shield and pipe and inspect.

Also, the noise may be coming from elsewhere near the exhaust. Again, give it a good inspection.

 

[Touring5]

I went ahead and got the cover off and sure enough, the two long mounting bolts had backed out (a lot).

Went to the local Toro sales/service shop and ordered the gasket (&4.xx for the part and $5.xx for shipping). I asked them what the torque should be and they couldn't find the spec, but suggested a generic 112 in/lb. They also said they always use locktite (red) on muffler bolts.

Also, sure enough there was a fuel filter hidden behind the covers - no mention anywhere in the manual about the existence or maintenance of it. Bought a new one and will install when I replace the muffler/gasket.

Anyone know for sure what the bolts should be torqued to?

 

[boraticus]

Go to the following site, download the chart, measure the bolt and find the correct torque setting.

It's not really that critical to know the exact torque. It's not like it's an engine head. I'd put some Loktite on it and use the nearest spec for the bolt size and type. Just don't over tighten it.

www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf

 

[Touring5]

Yes, I want to be conservative on tightening the bolts. One of the bolts was really backed out and I think the internal threads got a little buggered up (not stripped). Since spending decent money on a torque wrench a couple of years ago, I figure I might as well put it to good use.

 

[Six_in_a_row]

Originally Posted By: Touring5
Yes, I want to be conservative on tightening the bolts. One of the bolts was really backed out and I think the internal threads got a little buggered up (not stripped). Since spending decent money on a torque wrench a couple of years ago, I figure I might as well put it to good use.


Touring5,

I agree that there is no use in making the machine screws too tight. I found in repairing my Toro muffler assembly that the new metal muffler/exhaust port gasket and the stamped muffler work together as one big compression/lock washer.

I used anti-seize compound because I found no evidence of factory thread locker on the hex head machine screws. In the worst case, the anti-seize will allow you remove the long machine screws easily in the future if you must. My muffler repair went through two seasons and is still holding up well. Unfortunately, I had the opportunity to check the muffler in January when I had to replace the starter rope.

I suspect these little machines can hold up well with a little bit of attention.

 

[Touring5]

Six_in_a_row,

The replacement gasket finally came yesterday and I was a bit surprised to see that it's a fiber/felt material (not metal). At first I wondered if it were the wrong part, but the shape and pattern are clearly correct. I suspect that the original was a similar material as nothing was left when I finally inspected it (I believe that was the case with yours). If I get another 13 years out of it, I think I'll have definitely gotten my moneys worth. Thanks for your responses.

 

[Six_in_a_row]

Originally Posted By: Touring5
Six_in_a_row,

The replacement gasket finally came yesterday and I was a bit surprised to see that it's a fiber/felt material (not metal). At first I wondered if it were the wrong part, but the shape and pattern are clearly correct. I suspect that the original was a similar material as nothing was left when I finally inspected it (I believe that was the case with yours). If I get another 13 years out of it, I think I'll have definitely gotten my moneys worth. Thanks for your responses.


Touring5,

All that was left of my original muffler gasket was the thin, badly rusted, stamped metal outline to which some other material was attached. If Toro had only used evil asbestos!

Two years ago, my replacement had metal on one side (the muffler side) and some gray plastic "felt" on the other. The "felt" back side was mostly covered by the metal from the front. Touring5, I believe you have a new, improved version.

We can both get another 13 years from our machines, but whether these machines will see 13 years more from us depends upon how much snow we'll have to move!

I'm glad you had some warmer weather to do your fix without a foot of snow waiting in your driveway!