Took a drive into Canada for Krown Rust Proofing

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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Oil spraying for rust control is just catching on in the US. In Canada we have been doing it for years, as its the only way to save an expensive vehicle from the ravages of salt and rust.

Given the entrepreneurial spirit of Americans, and the tough economy I am surprised more people are not getting into this business. Low cost of entry, and basic skills needed, and a huge market to tap into. Being your own boss is very rewarding...


Been real popular in Europe for aged too. But given some of the fine messes the English put together, I'm not surprised.

I'm just happy I don't have to deal with that anymore.

For the North, I always preferred aluminum cars anyway.
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Now that you have all the access holes drilled and ready, find yourself an alternate solution like Carewell, CorrosionFree or others that can be done without so much hassle.
Krown is not bad, but not as great as the internet is making it out to be. If the car is a daily driver, I guarantee that most of it will be gone from the undercarriage by late Spring.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Now that you have all the access holes drilled and ready, find yourself an alternate solution like Carewell, CorrosionFree or others that can be done without so much hassle.
Krown is not bad, but not as great as the internet is making it out to be. If the car is a daily driver, I guarantee that most of it will be gone from the undercarriage by late Spring.


First negative comment about Krown I've heard...

One of the reasons I went with Fluid Film was because it was cheap enough, and easy enough, for me to hit whenever I wanted to. Spring and fall seems to line up with good times to do rotations and brake jobs, so, while it's on jackstands... hose it down.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: Donald


We use to do Ziebart, Rust Jones and others. They were more like Waxoyl than Krown/Carwell and FF. Then the car companies started using more galvanized steel, and other methods to help prevent rust.

I am not sure why cars are rusting to much these days. Maybe more places using salt or the drive train lasting longer so people keeping cars longer so now its rust that kills the vehicle vs an engine or transmission.


I used to walk through the auto wreckers years and see all the Zeibart and Waxoly treated vehicles and they were all rusted to junk. While the oil sprayed vehicles still had intact bodies and frames... Those companies have long disappeared in this part of the world as people figured out they had no effect on rust.

IN fact Zeibart vehicle actually rusted fasted as water got in behind the undercoating and accelerated the corrosion. The tar they uses actually blocked the drain holes in doors and would retain water and the the door bottoms out faster than with no treatment at all..


Waxoly and Ziebart are still around in my area. Not sure if they have changed their product over the years.
 
I went to the same place two years ago & returned home disappointed. They were very thin on the application. Kicker was they didn't even drop the spare tire under the truck bed to get the frame crossmember.

I got my own FF kit & hammer a gallon on every fall now....

Glad you were satisfied.
 
I have used Fluid Film on other cars in the past but I thought I'd try Krown. Maybe you got some bum workers because these guys were caking it on.
 
The Krown product is very good, but their process is questionable. Most of the time, they are lazy and drill holes unnecessarily. In 2010, I brought my then brand-new Civic for a spray. The Civic had many rubber plugs underneath the rocker panel for access. Also, the trunk lid was easily accessible by lowering the trim. In both cases, they drilled unnecessary holes in the top of the rocker and trunk lid.
 
Depends on the installer...A good installer will drill no holes, or very few. Some vehicles have sealed areas that can only be accessed by new holes.

However, it seems some customers feel they have gotten there moneys worth if they come away will a car full of plastic caplugs
 
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I do my new vehicles once with rustoleum rubberized undercoating from Walmart. $50. That slows it down 5 years. Never had any rust through yet. But you have to do them when new.
 
If one is going to one of the Krown shops, it's best to remove all the plugs, shields or any other coverings because they will not do it, unless you know the owners and receive special treatment. They will simply spray the plastic coverings and not touch what's underneath.
They will also not bother trying to remove factory plugs because it's too time consuming and if damaged, they would have to source those specialty plugs. That is why it's easier for them just to drill and use their own plugs.

As with most anything, if you want something done right, do it yourself or at least take some initiative.
 
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
As with most anything, if you want something done right, do it yourself or at least take some initiative.


That's why I gave in and bought the tools to do it myself (fancy FF sprayer, 5 gallon bucket of the stuff). Whenever I need to do something, I can spray to my hearts content.
 
I know I've been tempted to get my cars Krowned now that we've got two Krown shops in the Buffalo NY area. Those funds are always going some place else..
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
What does a 5 gal bucket cost?? Keep in mind this is a messy job and not everyone wants to do it


Looks like $200 on Amazon .

I understand, but for me, no biggie. I turn into a big filthy mess doing tire rotations and brakes in my dirt driveway.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
What does a 5 gal bucket cost?? Keep in mind this is a messy job and not everyone wants to do it


Looks like $200 on Amazon .

I understand, but for me, no biggie. I turn into a big filthy mess doing tire rotations and brakes in my dirt driveway.
You could get a 20 foot tarp to lay down next to the cars when you work on them so you have a clean surface
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I understand, but for me, no biggie. I turn into a big filthy mess doing tire rotations and brakes in my dirt driveway.
You could get a 20 foot tarp to lay down next to the cars when you work on them so you have a clean surface[/quote]

That's probably not a bad idea, really. I put a tarp over my camper each year, which then gets beat up over the winter; but tarps are kinda cheap. I might have to try that next time, thanks.

Heh, might help with one issue I run into: Usually I can slide under a vehicle easier than slide back out. For some reason it's always hard to slide out. Nice slippery surface would help that.
 
Flattened big cardboard boxes are what I use for working out on the gravel driveway. With the two layers they are easy on the knees for stuff like tire changes or brakes too. Or in winter, sometimes I'll just put on my floater suit and lay on the hard packed snow and ice to do an oil change.
 
Did the big box thing. Still had dirt in my hair from crawling around. At least I didn't get gear lube all over me.

Got a set of coveralls years ago. Been liking them a lot lately.
 
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