The other gun lube

[alternety]

No - not cold pressed rattlesnakes.

May I suggest trying some of a material called Inorganic Fullerene like WS2 (Tungsten Disulphide). There are threads here in the additives category. The one about WS2 the ultimate lube has the most information. Most of the things the naysayers felt the need to provide are in there as well.

You can now get the material from the Oil Hub. The draw back of their specific product from APnano is that is suspended in some non-synthetic motor oil. It is a concentrate.

It behaves similar to MoS2, but it is harder, slipperier, takes higher temperatures, and is better at permanently bonding to surfaces.

I am going to use it on guns and engines. I have been trying to find some for a long time. I have some larger particle (around 600nm) regular WS2 that I put in alcohol to apply it. For the APnano IF WS2 I will lubricate it with the concentrate and later (after firing the gun) flush the oil carrier residue.

One area of concern is it may permanently change the color of metals that it is applied to. I am not sure yet. The IF WS2 can be burnished onto a surface (just about any material) and it will form a semi-permanent coating. I just have not seen the results after firing yet. It is tenacious black stuff so be careful what you get it on.

You can also use it to coat bullets, but you should use the non-IF WS2 powder for that. Note that it will coat the barrel and will increase the speed of bullets through the barrel. This can lead to needing an increase in powder charge if you are loading. The bullet can speed up enough to shorten the acceleration period.

There is some anti-oxidant effect; but not a primary feature. It may also reduce fowling. I have not experimented to any extent at this point. I don't get out to shoot a lot so I would be real interested in hearing about results from anyone else that experiments with the material.

 

[Barkleymut]

What part of the engine are u going to use it on? Hopefully not the crankcase.

 

[MolaKule]

Quote:
This can lead to needing an increase in powder charge if you are [re]loading. The bullet can speed up enough to shorten the acceleration period.


One could also use a faster burning powder if that is really the situation.

How much increase in bullet speeds would you experience/expect?

 

[dinkydau]

Usually with any bullet coating, moly, ws2 or hBN your velocity will drop anywhere from 20 to 80 fps. You then need to adjust the powder charge to bring the pressure and velocity back to where it was shooting a naked bullet.
DD

 

[dinkydau]

Check out this site for info on coatings.DD

http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: dinkydau
Check out this site for info on coatings.DD

http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html




This was what I was getting to:

WARNING!! Do NOT automatically increase your powder charge after coating your bullets. As with all reloading, start with a KNOWN SAFE MODERATE LOAD for naked (un-coated) bullets of the same type/weight and work up in small increments, checking for pressure.

You have two ways of compensating:

Use more of the same powder or use a faster burning powder according to reloading charts.

 

[alternety]

Originally Posted By: dinkydau
Check out this site for info on coatings.DD

http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html




Thanks for that link. Nice process description.

A further note, which I probably should have mentioned. The particle sizes can get pretty small. The IF WS2 can be in the range of 80nm or smaller when it is new. After processing with shot and a tumbler, it can also include much smaller particles in it. These various particles will not be stopped by the filter any face mask you likely have. WS2 is listed as non-toxic. But the world is still young for nano-particle hazard understanding. I got sloppy in using some of the large particle (>= 600nm) WS2 and believe I felt the effect in my lungs for a few days. To filter all of the processed IF WS2 out of air, you would need filtering down to < 10nm. even the 600nm WS2 will have particles less than 600nm. The published particle size is a nominal value.

Be careful. A chemical hood seems like overkill, but may be a useful technique. I am not sure what to do with the exhaust air. I used a sealed cardboard box with handling ports (plastic bags/Nitril gloves). Closed top with a "Saran Wrap" type material. Went outside to open it. Possibly overkill, but I am trained to consider failure possibilities.

Regarding where in the engine - yes, the crankcase. See the referenced thread in my initial post for all of the superfluous reasons for not doing that. Please do not reopen that topic here.

 

[Mystic]

I have never used any kind of lube for bullets. And I always shoot copper jacketed bullets so I have no need for a lube. If I was shooting cast lead bullets I would consider a lube to help prevent lead build up in the barrel.

For a handgun if I wanted a faster bullet I would use +P or P+P ammunition if that ammunition was acceptable to use in the handgun. That will get you faster speed for the bullets.

 

[dinkydau]

MolaKule you are 100% right. Good rules for a reloader.
Mystic a coating will reduce barrel fouling if its a lead or a jacketed bullet.
Some feel it improves cleaning, its not for everyone as it adds several steps to the loading process.
DD

 

[Mystic]

I would use a lube for cast lead bullets, but not for copper jacketed bullets. There really is no need to worry about copper build up. If you look at a smooth gun barrel under a microscope it looks like a rough road. A little bit of copper build up does not really cause any problems.

But I don't want to shoot lead cast bullets. More trouble than they are worth. I will stick with copper jacketed. The old timers had a special technique for removing lead from a barrel and also they used some sort of lube.

 

[bsmithwins]

Gun oils are creepy to get between parts that aren't or can't be disassembled. Also, in many places you want anti-corrosion protection too.

I'm not seeing how WS2 would do those things.

BSW

 

[alternety]

I put it in alcohol. It seems to get into little places.

I wonder how mixing it with a little Kroil instead would work.It would smell a lot worse and you would want to clean out the Kroil eventually. But it is "the oil that creeps". Surely the particle size of the IF form should get pulled along to some extent.