Switch from VR-1 to Brad Penn?

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68srvivr

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Mar 19, 2009
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Location
L.I., NY
I own a 1968 Barracuda Formula 340-S (orig. flat tappet cam).
127k on original motor.
Been using Valvoline VR-1 (10w30) for past 2 seasons...
April-Nov, depending on weather on L.I., NY.
Heard about Brad Penn, checked their site and was thinking of
switching this spring.
Should I?
What oil is best for my car?...seems like ZDDP claims are not always accurate.
Also, what should oil pressure be at idle?
Thanks to all.
 
VR1 is on sale right now at Autozone. I say stick with that. Brad Penn is fine too, but given that VR1 is $2.50/qt it's the obvious choice.
 
Comparing between Brad Penn 10w30 and VR1 10w30 doesn't show much difference in specs. Brad has 7% higher Phosphorous. VR1 has higher flash point by 8C. Brad has higher ash content. VR1 has higher VI. Both seem like reasonable oils for your car. The Valvoline oil is probably more available than Brad Penn.

Why are you thinking of changing?
 
Is your car a 4-speed or auto? I think there may have been a cam spec difference in the models... not sure.

Anyway, for the 4-speed model, I think the cam specs were...
210/222 @.050 and .429/.444 on 114 lc.

I don't know the spring rates, however it might be good to check that.

I've use VR1 (the street legal and dino version)in my Chevelle, no problems whatsoever.

Why the change?

I also use Brad Penn in a solid lifter 327 with heavy valve spring rates. I perceive the Brad Penn to be 'better' in a heavily modified engine. Again, I 'perceive' that and I have no data or experience to say the VR1 wouldn't be just as good.

As others have said, if VR1 works for you, continue to use it.

Just stay away from the synthetic VR1... it's an SL oil, unless you are running the 20w50, which I don't think you need.

Either way, they are two solid oils for your application.

(I'm not a Mopar fan but I do like that 'cuda and the ones that followed)
 
Car is torqueflite 727 auto.
Funny you mention 20w50, because that is what my mechanic
(ex Mopar dealer employee) recommends.
What is correct?...10w30, 10w50, 20w50...
Car sits in unheated (detached) garage all winter
and is out spring to late fall.
Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: 68srvivr

Also, what should oil pressure be at idle?
Thanks to all.

Rule of thumb (minimum) is about 10 PSI / thousand RPM. But, I'd be surprised if yours was less than 10 even at 700 RPM (I'm totally guessing on nominal idle speed).

Just to add on to the oil opinions; with that mileage, I would be surprised if VR-1's ZDDP isn't adequate. The only "negative" I've heard on racing oil is that it isn't for long OCIs, but that doesn't appear to be an issue for you anyway. I say "run what you brung". And, unless you're consuming a LOT of oil or are taking it to a track day, 10W-30 should be more than enough.
 
I'll take your friends GTO case at face value but oil related failures are pretty few and far between.

Cam failures (flat tappet) are certainly more frequent.

I would inquire more about this engine failure before I let it affect my oil choice, especially since it has been working good for year over past years.

You can certainly use 20w50 and see how you like it. Long Island can be just as hot and humid as Charleston, SC in the summer. But if you have had good oil pressure from 10w30, then I see no reasons to change the oil weight.

I'm not sure what Plymouth called for the 340, oil weight wise.

Peace of Mind can be worth it's weight in gold and when you are fond of a muscle car, especially so.

So take reccomendations here with a grain of salt combine it with your gutt feeling and run what you feel is best for you.
 
Thanks to all.
Again, relying on all of you "oil" experts.
Just want to put right oil in to preserve orig. motor for as long as possible.
It's a #'s matching car...want it to stay that way.
Without price as a factor, which one wins the vote?
 
redline has loads of zinc and moly. its an option
to me it sounds like you have a good thing going tho, i would probably stick with VR1
 
Are we all referring to the VR-1 (conventional dino crude) 10w30?
That's what I've been using.
Not the "not for street..." stuff.
 
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