Uhh, no. Again physics matters.You’re right! But what if this newer 0w-16 (or lighter for the new GF-6b) simply flowed better and sealed the rings better to prevent excessive fuel dilution?
Uhh, no. Again physics matters.You’re right! But what if this newer 0w-16 (or lighter for the new GF-6b) simply flowed better and sealed the rings better to prevent excessive fuel dilution?
Does your owner’s manual or warranty book state anywhere that the new car warranty is predicated on a particular grade?Thanks for the reply. I don't believe I can run those viscosities on a new car that is under warranty, only 20 weights are listed in my manual.
Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is the least volatile out of anything. You can barely measure the amount of VII it has (1%). Modern long drain 0w20 actually have better base stocks than their 5w20 counterparts.if you don't get that boost going a good 5w-20 being changed at 6k would be my choice as they tend to have less volatility than 0w-20 so they're a bit more stable.
I'd do a uoa with or without tbn just to check fuel dilution. if it dilutes the oil closer to 6 cst kv100 then step up a grade. If not and it stays between 7-8 i'd probably keep the grade. How long do you plan on running it. 100k then trade or 300k into the ground.
It's pretty vague:Does your owner’s manual or warranty book state anywhere that the new car warranty is predicated on a particular grade?
yes typically but i believe m1 ep 0w-20 lost pao but also reduced the Vi to mitigate the lesser quality base stock in the most recent formulation revision. But i believe their 0w-40 fs got a pao bump.Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is the least volatile out of anything. You can barely measure the amount of VII it has (1%). Modern long drain 0w20 actually have better base stocks than their 5w20 counterparts.
No, M1 EP 0w-20 is still basically entirely PAO based, in fact, I had an entire thread on it. If base oil quality was reduced, VI would INCREASE, due to increased VII load, it's literally the opposite of this take.yes typically but i believe m1 ep 0w-20 lost pao but also reduced the Vi to mitigate the lesser quality base stock in the most recent formulation revision. But i believe their 0w-40 fs got a pao bump.
All in all a 5w-20 typically just has less vi and also less volatility to accompany it but yes you can get a 0w to be better everywhere than the 5w counterpart like the older 0 and 5w-40 castrol edge. The 0w had better shear than the 5w. If it has less vi and worse volatility combined then that's a big base stock indication. PP has a pretty low flash point but a better than average flow. A 5w20 of theirs is the same or better than 0w-20 of someone else in pumpability. I'd only use their euro grade or 10w-30. To reduce volatility in a turbo gdi engine.
Ah youre right i mixed the two up. But i thought some m1 EP grade got changed. Might have confused it with something else.No, M1 EP 0w-20 is still basically entirely PAO based, in fact, I had an entire thread on it. If base oil quality was reduced, VI would INCREASE, due to increased VII load, it's literally the opposite of this take.
You can find relatively decent 5w20 but not better than 0w20 Mobil1 EP. It has a VII of 131 and is majority POA with a pour point of -54.yes typically but i believe m1 ep 0w-20 lost pao but also reduced the Vi to mitigate the lesser quality base stock in the most recent formulation revision. But i believe their 0w-40 fs got a pao bump.
All in all a 5w-20 typically just has less vi and also less volatility to accompany it but yes you can get a 0w to be better everywhere than the 5w counterpart like the older 0 and 5w-40 castrol edge. The 0w had better shear than the 5w. If it has less vi and worse volatility combined then that's a big base stock indication. PP has a pretty low flash point but a better than average flow. A 5w20 of theirs is the same or better than 0w-20 of someone else in pumpability. I'd only use their euro grade or 10w-30. To reduce volatility in a turbo gdi engine.
Mobil 1 AFE and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum would be my choices. They both start off at 8.8 KV100, so have the most potential for staying in grade if there's fuel dilution. Castrol Edge EP is at 8.7, so that would be my 3rd choice.
I think it will be better for cold winters and still work well for hot summers.
TGMO would have been a nice oil but it is more work for me to find it.
I seen a Valvoline full synthetic with lots of moly that looked like a good candidate too. I am not sure how moly works in small DI turbo motors if there is any benefit or any negative effects.
Yes, TGMO had an extremely high VI, which was achieved by the liberal use of VII polymers.If you're going to use xW-20 for now, then count me as another vote for Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 (given what OVERKILL has written about it, and if you don't mind the slightly higher price). It's currently at Partsource for $38+tax for 4.73 litres; Canadian Tire just finished a sale that had it for $37+tax.
I would be careful with oils like Toyota 0W-20. If I remember correctly it used to have a lot (like 800ppm+?) of molybdenum, though they might have changed it since, and I think I remember reading around here that in the long run it might have contributed to making the piston rings stick, etc. (or was that just about high amounts of viscosity improvers?). SonofJoe I think wrote about this sort of stuff, though maybe someone else remembers better than me.
You should be able to order it for in-store pick-up from the Walmart website, if that's an option for you.I went out looking for some Mobil1 0w-20 as a retailer had some of it on sale. They only had the AFE fuel economy 0w-20 on sale, not the Extended Performance. Will Mobil1 0w-20 still have the group 4 base oils that extended performance has ? I will likely be running 10k kms on the oil life monitor give or take, so about 6000 miles.