No. However, it shouldn't be too difficult to do once you understand the process. Look up the Peerless XLS subwoofer driver + the passive radiator combination as another option. Madisound should sell these and provide box dimensions.
I agree to an extent, but I believe your statement needs some clarification. For example, using an amp rated for 1000 WRMS at 4 ohms to drive an 8 ohm driver rated for 500 WRMS would be fine, because the amp would then only be pushing 500 watts. However, driving a 4 ohm sub rated the same with the same amp, the sub wouldn't last very long if it's driven a to high volume levels. I know, I've done this very setup. The subs sounded great while they lasted, but they both eventually blew. Using DVC subs also gives you a lot more flexibility in terms of wiring for different impedances. Doubling the impedance also doubles the dampening factor, and lowers the THD. It's also is easier on the amp...You want an amp that has twice the power as the speakers are rated.
You want an amp with highest damping factor you can to control cone movements.
I think we can build upon our thinking here. You are totally correct about power levels, exactly right about the impedance and wattage. What folks can miss is that when considering damping factor is the reverse equation, where the speaker‘s momentum generates power back into the amp, which the amp then has to absorb and control. i like your example of driving the 4 ohm sub with the matched 4 ohm amp - as it proves what I’m hoping to illustrate. The subs can experience cone excursion beyond the control of the amp, as it continues to move from momentum … and the amp isn’t absorbing enough of the back current, and the cone goes a bit wild, potentially into over-exertion. If it does this, there’s a double-whammy when it slips out of, and then back into, the magnetic field of the magnet, getting smacked hard mechanically and off in another direction, only to over-extend again.I agree to an extent, but I believe your statement needs some clarification. For example, using an amp rated for 1000 WRMS at 4 ohms to drive an 8 ohm driver rated for 500 WRMS would be fine, because the amp would then only be pushing 500 watts. However, driving a 4 ohm sub rated the same with the same amp, the sub wouldn't last very long if it's driven a to high volume levels. I know, I've done this very setup. The subs sounded great while they lasted, but they both eventually blew. Using DVC subs also gives you a lot more flexibility in terms of wiring for different impedances. Doubling the impedance also doubles the dampening factor, and lowers the THD. It's also is easier on the amp...
I had a pair of Sundown subs rated for 150 WRMS each, and I was pushing them with a 600 WRMS Alpine amp. They sounded awesome until they popped...BTW, these were for a car audio system, the one I'm doing now is for my HT system...I think we can build upon our thinking here. You are totally correct about power levels, exactly right about the impedance and wattage. What folks can miss is that when considering damping factor is the reverse equation, where the speaker‘s momentum generates power back into the amp, which the amp then has to absorb and control. i like your example of driving the 4 ohm sub with the matched 4 ohm amp - as it proves what I’m hoping to illustrate. The subs can experience cone excursion beyond the control of the amp, as it continues to move from momentum … and the amp isn’t absorbing enough of the back current, and the cone goes a bit wild, potentially into over-exertion. If it does this, there’s a double-whammy when it slips out of, and then back into, the magnetic field of the magnet, getting smacked hard mechanically and off in another direction, only to over-extend again.
two factors I look for then, is to oversize the amp, factoring between analog or digital, and, as you also suggested, avoid 4 ohm setups (while parts can be found for specific builds, 4 ohm is not the standard for PA cabs). The issue with the smaller 4 ohm coil is that it generates less voltage from cone movement, providing less ”grip” back to the amp for it to hold on to with.
if I’m singing to the choir, I apologize. But i couldn't tell if this particular perspective was clear.
just out of curiosity, what cabs were you running?
You sized that by the book - I’ll bet it did sound great!I had a pair of Sundown subs rated for 150 WRMS each, and I was pushing them with a 600 WRMS Alpine amp. They sounded awesome until they popped...BTW, these were for a car audio system, the one I'm doing now is for my HT system...
I agree to an extent, but I believe your statement needs some clarification. For example, using an amp rated for 1000 WRMS at 4 ohms to drive an 8 ohm driver rated for 500 WRMS would be fine, because the amp would then only be pushing 500 watts. However, driving a 4 ohm sub rated the same with the same amp, the sub wouldn't last very long if it's driven a to high volume levels. I know, I've done this very setup. The subs sounded great while they lasted, but they both eventually blew. Using DVC subs also gives you a lot more flexibility in terms of wiring for different impedances. Doubling the impedance also doubles the dampening factor, and lowers the THD. It's also is easier on the amp...