Ok but i asked about gulf because i cant see the bottle
it comes in drums at the quick lube place
it comes in drums at the quick lube place
store brand motor oil
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ANd i care because i want the car to last a while and i heard synthetic makes your car last longer
Originally Posted By: engineer20
ANd i care because i want the car to last a while and i heard synthetic makes your car last longer
You heard incorrectly...synthetic oil, not the car, will last longer...
Synthetic OIL lasts longer than conventional oil....but your OCI is 5k and ANY SN-rated conventional oil will "last," remain effective, for 5k miles, YOUR OCI, under normal/typical driving conditions...synthetic oil typically "lasts" up to 10k miles and while some people do not change synthetic oil over even more miles, as many as 15k miles, most people will limit synthetic OCIs to 7-8k miles.
The car will not last any longer than maintenance performed on ALL OTHER mechanical parts and sheet metal...the engine will die long after brakes, suspensions parts (e.g. shocks/struts/springs) etc. have been replaced, IF YOU STICK TO YOUR 5k OCI...again WITH ANY SN-rated oil.
ANd i care because i want the car to last a while and i heard synthetic makes your car last longer
You heard incorrectly...synthetic oil, not the car, will last longer...
Synthetic OIL lasts longer than conventional oil....but your OCI is 5k and ANY SN-rated conventional oil will "last," remain effective, for 5k miles, YOUR OCI, under normal/typical driving conditions...synthetic oil typically "lasts" up to 10k miles and while some people do not change synthetic oil over even more miles, as many as 15k miles, most people will limit synthetic OCIs to 7-8k miles.
The car will not last any longer than maintenance performed on ALL OTHER mechanical parts and sheet metal...the engine will die long after brakes, suspensions parts (e.g. shocks/struts/springs) etc. have been replaced, IF YOU STICK TO YOUR 5k OCI...again WITH ANY SN-rated oil.
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Back in 1973 to 1987 I worked at sears as a mechanic. We used mostly the old sears spectrum oils. Anyone remember those oils? Not one engine failure occurred. It also kept the engines clean. I used it in my car and so did the other mechanics. I dont know who made it for them but it was good oil. At Sears we installed confidence!!
With all things being equal (i.e. SN certification), store brands can meet your vehicle's needs and save some coin when they're on sale. Then there's the recent Kmart sale on Super S Multiflo. But for everyday pricing on conventional oil, I would skip the store brands and go right for the 5 quart jug of Mobil Super for $12.97 everyday at Walmart.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
sounds good.
Any thoughts on gulf brand motor oil? what about gulf synthetic? i can get a gulf synthetic OC for 49 at a quick lube with a mighty filter, is gulf any good (conventional or synthetic) and how does this compare to formula shell?
Our shop switched to Gulf from Formula Shell. I love the Gulfpride and Gulftech engine oils. I use our bulk Gulfpride Advanced Fuel Efficient Semi-Synthetic 5w30 in my vehicles. Most shops in our area use Gulf as their bulk oils. Gulf has one of the largest bulk distributorships in the Northeast. I have Gulfpride Universal Semi-Synthetic ATF in My Trailblazer 4L60 also.
Check out their data sheets at http://www.nu-tierbrands.com
sounds good.
Any thoughts on gulf brand motor oil? what about gulf synthetic? i can get a gulf synthetic OC for 49 at a quick lube with a mighty filter, is gulf any good (conventional or synthetic) and how does this compare to formula shell?
Our shop switched to Gulf from Formula Shell. I love the Gulfpride and Gulftech engine oils. I use our bulk Gulfpride Advanced Fuel Efficient Semi-Synthetic 5w30 in my vehicles. Most shops in our area use Gulf as their bulk oils. Gulf has one of the largest bulk distributorships in the Northeast. I have Gulfpride Universal Semi-Synthetic ATF in My Trailblazer 4L60 also.
Check out their data sheets at http://www.nu-tierbrands.com
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@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
Originally Posted By: Lex94
There are about 260M registered vehicles in the USA.
Pennzoil motor oil has about a 50% market share.
There are over 100M vehicles using Pennzoil.
Sooo.....
Never buy a used car! It's too risky.
The last time I checked Pennzoil had about 22% of the market share.
There are about 260M registered vehicles in the USA.
Pennzoil motor oil has about a 50% market share.
There are over 100M vehicles using Pennzoil.
Sooo.....
Never buy a used car! It's too risky.
The last time I checked Pennzoil had about 22% of the market share.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
With modern conventional base oils, additive chemistry is far more important than base oils. Not much difference in using inexpensive synthetics and conventional oils for normal drain intervals.
Talking about cleaning, we changed the oil in a 2005 Tuscon using our bulk Gulfpride AFE 5w30. The next day the vehicle came back smoking and sputtering with the check engine light on. It had a cam actuator code that typically indicates a clogged oil control valve. We pulled the drain plug to check for sludge. The pan was full of sludge. One day of driving on our Gulfpride broke loose tons of sludge.
With another oil change, the vehicle was fine. You don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine.
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
With modern conventional base oils, additive chemistry is far more important than base oils. Not much difference in using inexpensive synthetics and conventional oils for normal drain intervals.
Talking about cleaning, we changed the oil in a 2005 Tuscon using our bulk Gulfpride AFE 5w30. The next day the vehicle came back smoking and sputtering with the check engine light on. It had a cam actuator code that typically indicates a clogged oil control valve. We pulled the drain plug to check for sludge. The pan was full of sludge. One day of driving on our Gulfpride broke loose tons of sludge.
With another oil change, the vehicle was fine. You don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
if i'm doing a 3k OCI, is a store brand conventional and store brand filter enough?
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Sludge is NOT a result of using the wrong BRAND SN-rated oil specified for the engine (5w-30 in your case)...
Sludge is a result of
1. OCIs extended beyond the capabilities of the oil
and
2. OCIs EXTENDED WELL BEYOND THE MILES SPECIFIED BY THE OEM, (5k miles for your engine)...
BUT....you've written: "if I'm doing a 3k OCI" ......so neither variable is relevant to your inquiry.
With 3k-mile OCIs ANY SN-rated oil will keep a clean engine clean....
Is there even any evidence of sludge in your engine?
If not, then there's no need to worry or wonder about brands of oil if you are going to do 3k OCIs...
If there is some sludge then OCIs every 3k miles will clean a lot of it up...as salv writes in reply...
Originally Posted By: salv
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
With modern conventional base oils, additive chemistry is far more important than base oils. Not much difference in using inexpensive synthetics and conventional oils for normal drain intervals.
Talking about cleaning, we changed the oil in a 2005 Tuscon using our bulk Gulfpride AFE 5w30. The next day the vehicle came back smoking and sputtering with the check engine light on. It had a cam actuator code that typically indicates a clogged oil control valve. We pulled the drain plug to check for sludge. The pan was full of sludge. One day of driving on our Gulfpride broke loose tons of sludge.
With another oil change, the vehicle was fine. You don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine.
YES! Change oil @ 3k miles as OP says he's doing, then yes, "you don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine."
if i'm doing a 3k OCI, is a store brand conventional and store brand filter enough?
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Sludge is NOT a result of using the wrong BRAND SN-rated oil specified for the engine (5w-30 in your case)...
Sludge is a result of
1. OCIs extended beyond the capabilities of the oil
and
2. OCIs EXTENDED WELL BEYOND THE MILES SPECIFIED BY THE OEM, (5k miles for your engine)...
BUT....you've written: "if I'm doing a 3k OCI" ......so neither variable is relevant to your inquiry.
With 3k-mile OCIs ANY SN-rated oil will keep a clean engine clean....
Is there even any evidence of sludge in your engine?
If not, then there's no need to worry or wonder about brands of oil if you are going to do 3k OCIs...
If there is some sludge then OCIs every 3k miles will clean a lot of it up...as salv writes in reply...
Originally Posted By: salv
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@ pennzoil is it because of the sludge issues? Also, what about pennzoil platinum? that's supposed to clean sludge!
Is the napa brand motor oil any good?
let's put it this way, is a "premium conventional" like castrol gtx, or kendall liquid titanium, etc "better" than a "cheap synthetic" like meijer or supertech synthetic?
what's the difference between using a top conventional vs the cheapest synthetic you can find like gulf synthetic/supertech? does the cheap synthetic offer any benefits?
With modern conventional base oils, additive chemistry is far more important than base oils. Not much difference in using inexpensive synthetics and conventional oils for normal drain intervals.
Talking about cleaning, we changed the oil in a 2005 Tuscon using our bulk Gulfpride AFE 5w30. The next day the vehicle came back smoking and sputtering with the check engine light on. It had a cam actuator code that typically indicates a clogged oil control valve. We pulled the drain plug to check for sludge. The pan was full of sludge. One day of driving on our Gulfpride broke loose tons of sludge.
With another oil change, the vehicle was fine. You don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine.
YES! Change oil @ 3k miles as OP says he's doing, then yes, "you don't need to spend big money on oil to clean a dirty engine."
Can I clean sludge by using a short 1k oci in succession a few times to clean out sludge? There is sludge when I open up the oil cap. I bought tons of peenzoil platinum on sale so I heard that's a good cleaning oil but will a short oci work or will putting seafoam in my crankcase clean my sludge? I also seafoam end my camry thru the brake booster line and smoke came out. I attempted the same on the taurus but no smoke came out. I think I poured the seafoam incorrectly into the taurus and later poured an ounce into the taurus crankcase. Must I immediately change the oil on the taurus and did I screw it over by pouring seafoam into the wrong line? The camry actually drove a lot better and smoother after the seafoam so sea foaming was good but what about putting it in the crankcase to clean sludge and use peenzoil platinum and use a 1k oci on a cheap purolator classic filter?
Nick1994
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1,000 miles is too short, run it for 3,000 and change it.
1000 miles might be too short, but it depends how you're putting the miles on. If it's the type of driving that's conducive to the problem in the first place, maybe 1000 miles is a good idea.
Thanks, i guess i will try one k but what about the seafoam question?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Personally I would t drive over 200-300 miles with Seafoam in the crankcase. I don't have scientific evidence for that lol but I just wouldn't.
What were your steps for sea foaming through the brake booster? What I do is suck half the can in there within a minute or so and turn the car off for 15 minutes, then start it up and rev it and drive it hard.
What were your steps for sea foaming through the brake booster? What I do is suck half the can in there within a minute or so and turn the car off for 15 minutes, then start it up and rev it and drive it hard.
Kitacam has answered all of your questions here and probably on the 'Yota forum, yet you still ask the same dang thing.
I cannot address any questions regarding Seafoam or other additives as I've not used them, nor had any need to...
Perhaps others who have used them with success can provide Engineer20 with expertise and comment on their experiences.
Perhaps others who have used them with success can provide Engineer20 with expertise and comment on their experiences.
also, is it ok to do a "partial" oil change every 1000 miles to prevent sludge, as in i drain out 1 quart, in case seafoam contaminated my oil yet I don't want to completly change my oil as that'd be too expensive?
Personally, I wouldn't bother with that. If you want to do short drains, just use a reasonably priced conventional. Finding a good deal isn't that hard.
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