sticky topic - what is the best oil

[Otis1972]

Hi, I'm brand new to the forum, I am taking the advice of the sticky topic thread I saw. I just bought an 06 Tacoma. My responses to the suggested questions are below in CAPS;

So, when you ask for advice, tell us about your car! The more details, the better. Here are the essential points:

1. What kind of vehicle you have -2006 TACOMA, 5-SPEED, 4WD, 2.7L, 99,500 MILES
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well-- ILSAC multigrade engine oil 5W-30
3. Where you live - PHOENIX, AZ
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?) VARIES UPON MOOD, USUALLY A LITTLE ABOVE SPEED LIMIT
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?) WORK FROM HOME, TRUCK WILL NOT BE DRIVEN MUCH, (MAYBE 5 TO 6 THOUSAND MILES PER YEAR). MAJORITY OF TRIPS WILL BE LONGER, SOME OFF ROADING WILL BE DONE, MORE HIGHWAY MILES THAN CITY
6. Whether your car has any known problems NOT THAT I KNOW OF YET; THE CONVENTIONAL OIL IN THE TRUCK NOW LOOKS LIKE HONEY; PREVIOUS OWNNER SAID HE LAST CHANGED THE OIL AT ABOUT 95K MILES

If you have any preferences -- synthetic vs. conventional, store-bought vs. ordered online, how long you'd like to go between oil changes, etc. -- or any other info you think might be important, let us know that as well. PREVOIUS OWNER SAID HE PUT CONVENTIONAL OIL LAST OIL CHANGE, BUT BEFORE WAS SYNTHETIC. I AM LEANING TOWARDS SYNTHETIC, MAINLY BECAUSE I WILL ONLY DRIVE 5 TO 6k MILES A YEAR.

PLEASE GIVE RECOMMENDATIONS ON OIL FILTER TO USE AS WELL. I ALSO PLAN TO DO A COOLANT FLUSH SOON TOO, I'D WELCOME ANY COOLANT RECOMMENDATIONS.

THANKS,

Once again, the more details, the better. BITOG loves a good oil recommendation thread, especially when you give us a lot to work with. cheers
[color:#FF0000][/color]

 

[CT8]

Chevron Supreme.

 

[nyumski]

Mobil 1 series with sae 5w40 either is ESP, TDT and delvac

For 10w40 i will choose Q8 T800 10w40, it is one of the HDEO oil

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 and a Fram Tough Guard once a year or up to 10,000 miles if you want

 

[Dyusik]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Chevron Supreme.

+1
With a wix.

 

[Kuato]

Any synthetic should do just fine for 6k/1 year. Price the deciding factor, the ST Syn or Valvoline Synpower were both under $17 last time I checked.

Considering your super high temps though, plus offroading, dust etc, if a bit more cost isn't an issue, you may want a stouter oil...in which case you may want to consider Amsoil 10w30, which will flow just as well as a 5w30 in the AZ temps, or M1 which should be good as well.

 

[Warstud]

Since it doesn't get used often just use a conventional.

 

[Ram01]

Valvoline max life with a wix or Toyota filter.

 

[suspiciousmind]

Can't go wrong with platinum...

 

[Donald]

Find out what oil your vehicle requires, probably SN, and the viscosity (5W30 is a guess).

Go to Walmart and buy oil that meets the spec for your vehicle. If you can afford synthetic, go for it, otherwise a conventional oil. Get a filter there also, almost any will do, I would avoid the really cheap ones, like the plain orange Fram.

I would forget the coolant flush and drain the radiator and fill with a 50/50 mix of Zerex Asian coolant and distilled water.

You got a transmission, maybe transfer case and diff that need fluid changes also.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: suspiciousmind
Can't go wrong with platinum...


I love me some Pennzoil Platinum... But Napa Platinums is inferior to all microglass filters with only a 50% efficiency @20 microns while something like a Fram Ultra is 99%+@20 microns

If you must use Wix/Napa products you're better off with the Napa Gold or regular which are 95% efficient at 20 microns

 

[donnyj08]

Valvoline Synpower 5w30 and a Fram ultra once a year.

 

[BikeWhisperer]

5k to 6k a year, go with Maxlife and a Wix (Napa Gold) and change once a year.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Find out what oil your vehicle requires, probably SN, and the viscosity (5W30 is a guess).

Go to Walmart and buy oil that meets the spec for your vehicle. If you can afford synthetic, go for it, otherwise a conventional oil. Get a filter there also, almost any will do, I would avoid the really cheap ones, like the plain orange Fram.

I would forget the coolant flush and drain the radiator and fill with a 50/50 mix of Zerex Asian coolant and distilled water.

You got a transmission, maybe transfer case and diff that need fluid changes also.



+1
It can be that simple.
Go a synthetic name brand if you can, but a semi-synthetic, or mineral oil will work too.
Change your oil and filter every year.

OP: " ILSAC multigrade engine oil 5W-30…... I WILL ONLY DRIVE 5 TO 6k MILES A YEAR. "

 

[suspiciousmind]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: suspiciousmind
Can't go wrong with platinum...


I love me some Pennzoil Platinum... But Napa Platinums is inferior to all microglass filters with only a 50% efficiency @20 microns while something like a Fram Ultra is 99%+@20 microns

If you must use Wix/Napa products you're better off with the Napa Gold or regular which are 95% efficient at 20 microns

Maybe true when new but, I run the platinum filter 2x 8k and its efficiency improves throughout its lifetime.

 

[yesthatsteve]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Donald
Find out what oil your vehicle requires, probably SN, and the viscosity (5W30 is a guess).

Go to Walmart and buy oil that meets the spec for your vehicle. If you can afford synthetic, go for it, otherwise a conventional oil. Get a filter there also, almost any will do, I would avoid the really cheap ones, like the plain orange Fram.

I would forget the coolant flush and drain the radiator and fill with a 50/50 mix of Zerex Asian coolant and distilled water.

You got a transmission, maybe transfer case and diff that need fluid changes also.



+1
It can be that simple.
Go a synthetic name brand if you can, but a semi-synthetic, or mineral oil will work too.
Change your oil and filter every year.

OP: " ILSAC multigrade engine oil 5W-30…... I WILL ONLY DRIVE 5 TO 6k MILES A YEAR. "


+2

EXCEPT...Zerex Asian coolant is already pre-mixed; no need to dilute it further.

 

[sicko]

If you're getting your oil from an auto shop, then go with what's on sale at a good price, because just about any quality oil (conventional or synthetic) will be able to handle your usage. Also, keep an eye out on this forum for when quality oil has a good rebate on it.


If you're buying your oil from some place like Walmart which has good oil prices and doesn't put oil on sale, then I like Mobil Super 5000, and Havoline for conventional oil. If you want to move up to a semi-synthetic then it's hard to beat Pennzoil Gold because it says right on the label that it's 50% synthetic. If you want to go up to a full synthetic, any of the known synthetics will handle your application just fine (Pennzoil, Valvoline, M1, Quaker State, Super Tech, Castrol, etc). If you want to go with a high mileage oil, I like Valvoline MaxLife.

As for filters, right now I'm using either Wix/NAPA Gold filters or Fram Ultras.

Any of the above combination of oils and filters will be able to go 1 year in your vehicle since you're doing about 6k miles a year.

 

[dnewton3]

First, Otis1972, Welcome ...

Second, you need to understand there is a big difference, no - make that HUGE difference, between what you want to use and what it needed for the safe operation of your engine (and other vehicle components).


Your planned usage, that of longer trips, perhaps 6k miles a year, in a normal warm climate, is about as easy as it gets on an engine, ever. It will come up to temp, stay there, and (presuming the cooling system is in good order) not overheat. There is absolutely nothing, and I mean zilch, special that would necessitate any super-duper requirement for lube or filter.

Any properly qualified SM or SN API lube in 5w-30 will do a great job. That includes many of the bargain house brands when it comes to lubes. And for filters, for exposure of a year, just about any filter brand you'd recognize at your auto parts store will do a fine job as well.

You can spend a lot of money on these products, but given your situation, you'll not get one iota of extra protection out of them because your application is about as easy as it can get on a lube/filter.

Some folks are going to tell you it's "cheap insurance" to use syns and super filters, but they are mistaken. It's not "insurance"; it's waste. They'll tell you that oil is cheap and engines are expensive; that's fear mongering, and it's prevalent here at BITOG.

Even today's "normal" products (conventional lube and filters) have way more capacity than your planned OCI is going to consume. I have personally run "normal" products (ST oil and Classic and MC filters) out to 10k miles and 15k miles. Upon UOAs and filter dissection, there was absolutely nothing wrong, and everything was completely normal in terms of wear and filtration. If these products can run to 15k miles, then your situation will NEVER, EVER stress them past their limits. And my results are posted here as proof.

The concept to grasp (and this escapes a lot of BITOGers) is that unused potential is wasted potential. If two products have more capacity than is needed, and one has more than the other in terms of capacity, it is not smart to chose the one that wastes the highest capacity, especially when it costs more! You are already not in a position to maximize even "normal" products, so buying more expensive products is just doubling down on waste. Consider this scenario ...
Oil "A" with filter "B" can safely protect to 8k miles.
Oil "X" with filter "Y" can safely protect to 15k miles.
If your planned OCI is only 6k miles, then the first scenario is more than adequate. So why pay more when you don't get more? Why pay more to waste more?

Be cautious; many people will foolishly waste your money.

I would suggest you read and understand this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

Again - Welcome!

 

[bigt61]

Yup, Dave is right. SuperTech 5W-30 or 10W-30 and any cheap filter at Walmart and you're good to go. Keep it topped off and switch to a high mileage oil if you have abnormal "consumption".

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
...there is a big difference, no - make that HUGE difference, between what you want to use and what it needed for the safe operation of your engine (and other vehicle components).

Some folks are going to tell you it's "cheap insurance" to use syns and super filters, but they are mistaken. It's not "insurance"; it's waste. They'll tell you that oil is cheap and engines are expensive; that's fear mongering, and it's prevalent here at BITOG.

Even today's "normal" products (conventional lube and filters) have way more capacity than your planned OCI is going to consume.




+1