Start up protection differences - 10w, 15w, 20w?

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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
My take on this,is if it's that cold where oil will not flow whatsoever,sump warmers/block heaters make more sense imo than uber thin oil.


Which one of 10W, 15W or 20W is an uber thin oil?


I was talking about 0W20.
 
Originally Posted By: tojo1968
Originally Posted By: rokwldr
Stupid, realy. I guess in Canada you could use oilve oil and do OK. I was speaking of S.Fla. I used M1 15-50 in a 2.8 S10 that went 250,000 miles. That says a lot to me. Just saying.

I owned 2 vehicles with the 2.8 in them.
84 Firebird
88 S10
Both went well over 200k with the engines running like a top. Zero oil consumption. Used Castrol GTX 20w-50 and AC Delco filters(PF47and PF52)in both because I was young and "thicker was better". Firebird spent its life in Pensacola and the S10 lived between Pensacola and New Orleans.


Castrol GTX and Pennzoil GT both had ads that recommended their 20W50s for high stressed 4 cyl engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CT8
The starting viscosity is most important when considering how long the time it takes to travel from the sump to the oil pump.


Pretty close, and way closer than those who say it's to do with pumped oil flow.

Per the ASTM...

Quote:
The low-temperature cranking viscosity is measured according to the procedure described in ASTM D5293 and is reported
in milliPascal·seconds (centipoise). Viscosities measured by this method have been found to correlate with the ability of
engines to start at low temperature.

The pumping viscosity is a measure of an oil's ability to flow to the engine oil pump and provide adequate oil pressure
during the initial stages of operation.
.
.
.
Because engine pumping, cranking, and starting are all important at low temperatures, the selection of an oil for winter
operation should consider both the viscosity required for successful oil flow, as well as that for cranking and starting, at the
lowest ambient temperature expected.


Supportive of the above quotes, and my statements re pumping/protection, are the results from some cold weather multigrade testing.
Oil%20gallery%20fill%20and%20rocker%20time.jpg


Columns to the right are time taken to see rocker arm flow, and the time to full oil pressure.

SAE30 at freezing, took 3 seconds to have flow out of the rocker arms, and 6 seconds to full oil pressure.
at 20F, still 6 seconds for full oil pressure, 15 for rocker arm flow.

The 5W20 at 12F produced rocker arm flow in 5 seconds, and 6 to full oil pressure...

The 5 and 3 for rocker arm flow are all but the same, and there's no way that at 30F the 5W20 is going to outflow the SAE30, as I say, it's a Positive Displacement Pump, espacially in the gallery filling phase.

Drop the temperatures some.
SAE30 at 20F, 10W30 at 9F, and 5W20 at -11F all offer about the same levels of "start-up protection". As per the ASTM quote, pick a viscosity suitable for you ambient.

SAE30 would be OK in my environment, which has probably only seen three 20F mornings in two decades...in the oft quoted Floridan context, the 5W would offer noting in terms of protection over either the SAE30, or the 10W30 that those debates usually pertain to.

(As an aside, I use 5W, 5W30 A3/B4 is my favourite ATM, with less VII than the more popular 40s, and still an HTHS over 3.5).

As the the other part of the quote, "cranking and starting", I've never pulled apart a dry engine, there is always copious oil in the bearings, and pistons/rings.

This is thick, and at the extremes of temperatures, can have the term "breakaway torque" applied to it - my old physics teacher from Calgary described a beetle, SAE30, and a hill as the only way to overcome breakaway torque in his youth.

OVERKILL has mentioned many times "ease on the battery" with the lower "W"s

Same engine as the above tests, this time cranking speed and startability (diesel engine). Diesels need speed to get the compression temperatures high enough for ignition.

Cold%20Start%20Engine%20B.jpg


The lower "W" grades, as expected give better cranking speeds at colder temperatures....above freezing, VI probably comes into it.


Could the faster cranking speed skew the flow/time results in the first graph?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
My take on this,is if it's that cold where oil will not flow whatsoever,sump warmers/block heaters make more sense imo than uber thin oil.

You don't need uber thin oil, you just need a multigrade that's appropriate for the climate. Delvac Elite 222 0w-30 (the successor to the oil in the Esso video) has some of the best cold start characteristics available, yet with an HTHS of 3.5 or higher, it's certainly not a thin oil.
 
Originally Posted By: OceanRuns
How different is cold start-up flow/protection in a 10w-30 versus a 15w-40, versus a 20w-50?

Assume we're starting above freezing (vast majority of the time). Does the 10w circulate faster such that it reduces wear on start-up over the other two?


OceanRuns – the simple answer is yes, theoretically, the 10W start-up viscosity is less than the 15W start-up viscosity, which is less than the 20W. You're on the right track but we have to remember that we are talking about viscosity of the oil at “cold” engine at start-up conditions (the “W” actually stands for “Winter” so the “10W” means 10 weight winter vis grade, vs. 15 weight winter vis grade, etc). So, if you're not in cold conditions, the flow of the oil at start-up probably isn't an issue. Additionally, your OEM may have certain viscosity requirements for the flow to and proper protection of the engine hard-parts. That being said, going “thinner” isn’t always the right answer.

For this reason, OEMs typically recommend viscosity grades based on the most prevalent ambient conditions that you are operating in. Your OEM manual will actually delineate the viscosity grade recommendations by temperature gradients. Hope this helps! - The Pennzoil Team
 
my old oil burning 307 cu in 1972 chevy nova running valvoline 20-50 would not even start once the colder, prolly 30's weather set in!!!
 
Originally Posted By: GenaFishbeck
So, if you're not in cold conditions, the flow of the oil at start-up probably isn't an issue. Additionally, your OEM may have certain viscosity requirements for the flow to and proper protection of the engine hard-parts. That being said, going “thinner” isn’t always the right answer.


Did you guys hear that?!?!

Thinner isn't always better -- and that's coming straight from the oil company!
happy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
my old oil burning 307 cu in 1972 chevy nova running valvoline 20-50 would not even start once the colder, prolly 30's weather set in!!!


Funny, my J-Car would start at -7C with 25W70 in the sump (20F)
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
my old oil burning 307 cu in 1972 chevy nova running valvoline 20-50 would not even start once the colder, prolly 30's weather set in!!!


Probably because of a carburetor issue, maybe the choke wasn't set right. I'd bet it had nothing to do with the oil if the temps were only in the 30's.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: benjy
my old oil burning 307 cu in 1972 chevy nova running valvoline 20-50 would not even start once the colder, prolly 30's weather set in!!!

Probably because of a carburetor issue, maybe the choke wasn't set right. I'd bet it had nothing to do with the oil if the temps were only in the 30's.


Or just the battery.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: benjy
my old oil burning 307 cu in 1972 chevy nova running valvoline 20-50 would not even start once the colder, prolly 30's weather set in!!!

Probably because of a carburetor issue, maybe the choke wasn't set right. I'd bet it had nothing to do with the oil if the temps were only in the 30's.


Or just the battery.


Certainly another possibility.
wink.gif
 
That was my thoughts too.

My brother had a Holden HK Premier (google them, they are great) with a 307...had braided straps all over the place instead of proper cables...all needed replacing, and made a big difference in cranking.
 
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