Slightly enlarging a cylindrical tool?

JHZR2

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I have a bushing press that works well, but it holds onto the metal/rubber bushing ends too well when installing.

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Once installed it’s impossible to get them off without beating, which has collateral damage.

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The tool has end cups that are perfectly sized for the bushing.

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Almost a little too perfect…

So what’s the way to remove the slightest bit of material from the ID of the tool, so it releases easier from the bushing?

The thing is it needs to very consistently and regularly removed, no high and low spots or whatnot.

So how would I best remove the slightest amount of material in an extremely consistent way around the ID of the tool so that we can ensure that’s going to release easier.

I was thinking just sanding it, but I fear I’d take more off on one side.

Any recommendations?
 
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If you can't access a lathe you can try finding a way to spin it in something like a drill, maybe using a bolt and some washers as an arbor.

Take some sandpaper or plumbers tape and sand the ID with the work spinning. It would take A LOT to remove any significant amount of material this way. Hand sanding like this removes tenths of a thousandth. You'd have to work hard to take out a couple thou.
 
Know anyone with a Lathe?
Yes. But down in Arlington TX.

But if that’s the right way to do it, then that’s a good start.

If you can't access a lathe you can try finding a way to spin it in something like a drill, maybe using a bolt and some washers as an arbor.

Take some sandpaper or plumbers tape and sand the ID with the work spinning. It would take A LOT to remove any significant amount of material this way. Hand sanding like this removes tenths of a thousandth. You'd have to work hard to take out a couple thou.
I’m not sure we really want to take much more than a few thou. But the makeshift spinning setup is a great option to figure out.
 
A large brake cylinder hone or small engine cylinder hone with do that job with no problems. Put the hone in a drill press and clamp the piece, then use the press to bring the hone up and down, use cutting oil. Use a 3 arm hone.
 
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I used the hone I bought for this today. It definitely got easier to insert the control arm bushing ends in.

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The bore was scuffed down a bit. I could tell. I didn’t want to be too aggressive though, and since it was easy to fit the end in, I went with it.

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Then we went to press in the replacement.


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Which was hard but was fine.

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But the same happened again…

Stuck.

Used a punch and a brass drift. Got one side relatively easily, the other side not so much.

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All I could do is keep smacking it with a punch. Which damages the edge.

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So, I guess I just wasn’t aggressive enough with the hone?
 
Stick a bolt through, tighten a nut down, and chuck it in a drill. If you put a piece of fuel hose between the bolt head and nut, through the piece it will squish and center the piece on the bolt.

Your hone didn't even make it through the plating. You need some sandpaper IMO.
 
Stick a bolt through, tighten a nut down, and chuck it in a drill. If you put a piece of fuel hose between the bolt head and nut, through the piece it will squish and center the piece on the bolt.

Your hone didn't even make it through the plating. You need some sandpaper IMO.
Right it didn’t. I didn’t really want to be too aggressive. I thought maybe it was just some surface roughness. The before and after ease of inserting and removing the end into the cap was noticeable.
 
A large brake cylinder hone or small engine cylinder hone with do that job with no problems. Put the hone in a drill press and clamp the piece, then use the press to bring the hone up and down, use cutting oil. Use a 3 arm hone.
I didn’t read this close enough. I’ll do that next. I got the job done but I want to have an easier time and not damage my tool.
 
The other issue with using the hone is that the pressure is on the center of the stones so they will pivot and not cut evenly in this application.
 
I didn’t read this close enough. I’ll do that next. I got the job done but I want to have an easier time and not damage my tool.
You will not be able to move it up and down but as long as the center of the hone is in the bore it should work okay just let it spin, make sure you have good tension on the hone. You may need a smaller hone. This is a smaller one but if you take the part to the store you may find one that fits right in the tube properly, not half hanging out.


You could use a dremel with a sanding drum while spinning it in a drill as roofless said, don't worry about getting too aggressive it is a slow process, a lathe is the best way to do this, a machine shop will not charge you much if there is one locally.
 
You will not be able to move it up and down but as long as the center of the hone is in the bore it should work okay just let it spin, make sure you have good tension on the hone. You may need a smaller hone. This is a smaller one but if you take the part to the store you may find one that fits right in the tube properly, not half hanging out.


You could use a dremel with a sanding drum while spinning it in a drill as roofless said, don't worry about getting too aggressive it is a slow process, a lathe is the best way to do this, a machine shop will not charge you much if there is one locally.
That’s actually the hone I have.

I do think a machine shop is the better bet. I need to make a relationship with one anyway.
 
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