Should you baby a CVT or drive it hard?

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Subaru CVT is a JATCO.

Anything abused won't last.

Drive it sanely. Change the CVT fluid in a timely or mileage basis(2 years 30k max).
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Subaru CVT is a JATCO.

Anything abused won't last.

Drive it sanely. Change the CVT fluid in a timely or mileage basis(2 years 30k max).



Nissans are JATCOs, I thought Fuji Heavy Industries (Subaru) had their own.

Edit: Checked on that. Subaru CVT are their own "Lineartronic CVT" ones, not JATCO. You must be thinking of them using JATCO for all their conventional automatics in the past. See wikipedia page "Since the 1970s, all Subaru conventional automatic transmissions have been Jatco designs adapted to Subaru specifications. Since the 2014 model year, the conventional automatic transmissions in North American-spec Subaru vehicles have been replaced with Lineartronic CVTs."
 
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Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Subaru CVT's are JATCO licensed units produced in a plant owned 50:50 by Fuji and JATCO. Its a JATCO.



Do you have a reference source? Mine is PDF Industry Summary CVT

Fuji Heavy, with the Lineartronic may have worked quite a bit with jatco, yet I doubt if you could say its the same as the jatcos in Nissans.

krcX7N3.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Subaru CVT's are JATCO licensed units produced in a plant owned 50:50 by Fuji and JATCO. Its a JATCO.



Do you have a reference source? Mine is PDF Industry Summary CVT

Fuji Heavy, with the Lineartronic may have worked quite a bit with jatco, yet I doubt if you could say its the same as the jatcos in Nissans.

krcX7N3.jpg



Subaru's CVTs are a Jatco built unit, specifically for Subaru. They are very different from the typical and more universal Jatco line used by Nissan, etc..
 
I spent the better part of the week driving my father's 2013 Subaru Impreza. The more I drove it the less I liked the CVT transmission, especially when driving very slow in traffic. It has a weird almost jerky feel to it. Very hard to describe. He loves the car and that is his only complaint with it. I can see why.

I don't think driving it hard is a good idea.
 
I would think with a cvt every throttle fluctuation would cause it to "shift". But I don't know if there is wear from the band sliding around versus the band wearing simply from every rotation it makes.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
^^^You may be confusing load with rpm.

High LOAD helps to seat rings with cylinder pressures used through passages to push the ring in to the cylinder wall.

Wildly platform specific, but in general working the engine a bit is good for break in....


I think it's both that are good.

High load/cylinder pressure to push the rings against the walls.

High heat/friction from high rpm to polish them to fit.

Granted I don't build engines for a living so it's all opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: philipp10
But the purpose of bringing a brand new engine to red line is to find if it is capable of that and to look for vibrations etc. It's NOT necesarily to break it in.


This is based on what evidence?

High RPM is needed for heat and friction to get the rings to set.

I have re-broken in cars that were granny driven and there is a significant difference.


and what evidence is your comment based upon??
 
Originally Posted By: philipp10
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: philipp10
But the purpose of bringing a brand new engine to red line is to find if it is capable of that and to look for vibrations etc. It's NOT necesarily to break it in.


This is based on what evidence?

High RPM is needed for heat and friction to get the rings to set.

I have re-broken in cars that were granny driven and there is a significant difference.


and what evidence is your comment based upon??


I was taught pretty much the same way years ago in auto shop and by a few engine builders.

I don't know much about re-breaking in a engine, it does interest me. I thought you only had one shot at that.
 
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