Serpentine Tensioner

[supton]

Went to see if I could loosen the serpentine on our '03 CRV, it's a tough one. Am thinking it's worth buying a tool so as to get good leverage--less likely to hurt myself.

A regular socket on a 3/8" breaker bar won't fit.

I have an offset box wrench that gets in there cleanly, but I need a cheater on it.

I don't think the HF makes sense here? if a socket won't work then this won't either?

It looks like I need a special tool for this Honda? I think I saw a thread where someone just removed the engine mount and jacked the engine instead. Most just cobble cheaters of sorts and I know that works... I'm just starting to get more apprehensive about doing such things (busted knuckles).

[Note, it does have a 14mm end, that got clipped from the screenshot.]

Is this worth getting, or is there something better? and would this tool work on my Corolla? I don't have anything else that has a serpentine tensioner.

 

[Rand]

toyota reinventing the wheel..
why not just have a 1/2" square on it for a breaker bar... ugh.

 

[D60]

toyota reinventing the wheel..
why not just have a 1/2" square on it for a breaker bar... ugh.

I think CRV is Honda. But if Toyota it might very well require their special star socket, so you're 50% right

OP, the Kabo flex box wrenches that "reach" out a bit may be perfect. Sold as EZ Red, Mountain, Icon ($), Carlyle ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) and others

Or Astro Nano sockets with a box end on the hex.

Or find a cheap socket and cut it down if it'll buy you what you need. I face 'em down in the lathe but a steady hand and angle grinder will get you there.

HF also sells a very thin head extra long flex ratchet. It's 3/8" on one side and 1/4" at the other end. Invaluable tool. But you'd still need a shallow socket

 

[nwjones18]

does that one have the 2.4? Looks similar to my 08 which is the hardest tensioner to access I've ever run across. I move the P/S reservoir out of the way to give myself a little more room and have had the best luck with a long 14mm offset box end if I recall (probably with a cheater like you mentioned)... I know it was a long 14mm something. I bought the HF tool specifically for it and it didn't work for me. Sorry I can't remember all the details its been a while since I fought it. haha.

 

[eljefino]

What if you go in through the wheel well?

 

[supton]

does that one have the 2.4? Looks similar to my 08 which is the hardest tensioner to access I've ever run across. I move the P/S reservoir out of the way to give myself a little more room and have had the best luck with a long 14mm offset box end if I recall (probably with a cheater like you mentioned)... I know it was a long 14mm something. I bought the HF tool specifically for it and it didn't work for me. Sorry I can't remember all the details its been a while since I fought it. haha.

Yep 2.4, and I think same gen as yours? I moved the PS tank out the way (not far enough tho).

Anyhow, good confirmation that the HF tool is not the right one.

What if you go in through the wheel well?

Don’t think I can get in there from there, but will look.

 

[Warstud]

You can rent the tool at one of the Auto Parts Stores

 

[D60]

You can rent the tool at one of the Auto Parts Stores

Not buying a tool for a potential one-time use?? Does not compute......

 

[Rand]

I think CRV is Honda. But if Toyota it might very well require their special star socket, so you're 50% right

HAH nice catch

 

[Nukeman7]

You can rent the tool at one of the Auto Parts Stores

Here's the problem that I ran in to when renting the serpentine belt tensioner the tool from Autozone, Advance Auto & O'Reillys for my K24 engine. Even though each store's tool was labeled from a different brand (e.g., Duralast, OEM Tools, MasterPro), they appear to have come from the same overseas factory. The tool has two major parts: the main 18" lever arm with the plastic handle grip and a short ~6" articulating arm that the socket attaches to. On most applications (including the K24), you must use both lever arms to get the proper articulation to retract the tensioner with adequate leverage. However, this tool is incorrectly manufactured at the factory. The 18" lever has a 3/8" square male drive end just like a ratchet wrench, but the female receiving end of the 6" articulating arm is sized for a 1/2" ratchet end! As such, I purchased the Lisle 59800 tool which accommodates both 3/8" and 1/2" drives (see below). The Lisle tool also includes shallow depth, half-wide sockets which are needed to clear the fender well on the Honda CR-V's K24 setup.

 

[atikovi]

Not buying a tool for a potential one-time use?? Does not compute......

Unless the OP is 90, I'd think he will use it again. Labor at a shop would be more than the cost of the tool so why not?

 

[hrv]

does that one have the 2.4? Looks similar to my 08 which is the hardest tensioner to access I've ever run across. I move the P/S reservoir out of the way to give myself a little more room and have had the best luck with a long 14mm offset box end if I recall (probably with a cheater like you mentioned)... I know it was a long 14mm something. I bought the HF tool specifically for it and it didn't work for me. Sorry I can't remember all the details its been a while since I fought it. haha.

thats what I did on my 2007 Accord too...

 

[supton]

Unless the OP is 90, I'd think he will use it again. Labor at a shop would be more than the cost of the tool so why not?

I'm hoping not... no love for this car. But you're right, I might get stuck working on it again. So bonus points if a serpentine wrench could be used on my Corolla and maybe any other future vehicle acquisition.

As such, I purchased the Lisle 59800 tool which accommodates both 3/8" and 1/2" drives (see below). The Lisle tool also includes shallow depth, half-wide sockets which are needed to clear the fender well on the Honda CR-V's K24 setup.

Nice! Do you recommend the regular or the ratcheting version? might be worth the upgrade?

 

[Nukeman7]

I'm hoping not... no love for this car. But you're right, I might get stuck working on it again. So bonus points if a serpentine wrench could be used on my Corolla and maybe any other future vehicle acquisition.


Nice! Do you recommend the regular or the ratcheting version? might be worth the upgrade?
View attachment 191208

If I had to do it again, I would probably go with the ICON version of the ratcheting version of the Lisle 59800 tool. Some reviews said they are made in the same factory but the HF ICON tool comes with a blow-molded storage case and is $5 cheaper than the ratcheting Lisle. Both tools have a lifetime warranty, but it may be easier to get an exchange at a B+M HF store than Lisle via online correspondence.

If you don't plan to use the tool often, you can try retracting the tensioner by using a 14mm combination wrench (box end side on tensioner) and leveraging the open end with another long box end wrench (or 1/2" ratchet wrench as shown in this video at the 4 min. mark).

 

[wtd]

I'm hoping not... no love for this car. But you're right, I might get stuck working on it again. So bonus points if a serpentine wrench could be used on my Corolla and maybe any other future vehicle acquisition.


Nice! Do you recommend the regular or the ratcheting version? might be worth the upgrade?
View attachment 191208

I have the Lisle ratcheting version and like it a lot. I would recommend it over the non-ratcheting. I have another brand of non-ratcheting tensioner removal tool and sometimes it doesn't work as well as the ratcheting Lisle version. My ratcheting tool came in a plastic case.

 

[JimPghPA]

Try a pair of big vise grips on the end of the wrench that fits. Angle the handle of the vise grips so it's towards the windshield. Use rope or several bungee cords to hold the wrench in the position that gives you the slack. The other problem you're going to run into is that once you get the serpentine belt off you have to feed it around the tie downs you're having hold the wrench. And then you have to also feed the new serpentine belt into the proper position with respect to the wrench and the tide down before you pull the tensioner tight again.

It's been awhile since I've did the serpentine belt on mine when I upgraded the alternator but I think I actually went and did the open end of the wrench to a box close wrench cheating for the extra length and then I did the vise grips on top of that but I can't remember for sure. I do remember that I used a large pair of vice grips.

 

[JimPghPA]

Try a pair of big vise grips on the end of the wrench that fits. Angle the handle of the vise grips so it's towards the windshield. Use rope or several bungee cords to hold the wrench in the position that gives you the slack. The other problem you're going to run into is that once you get the serpentine belt off you have to feed it around the tie downs you're having hold the wrench. And then you have to also feed the new serpentine belt into the proper position with respect to the wrench and the tide down before you pull the tensioner tight again.

It's been awhile since I've did the serpentine belt on mine when I upgraded the alternator but I think I actually went and did the open end of the wrench to a box close wrench cheating for the extra length and then I did the vise grips on top of that but I can't remember for sure

I do remember that I used a large pair of vice grips. If I had to do it over again and I didn't have the large pair of vice grips I go out and buy a large pair of vice grips before I'd buy that tool that they sell.

 

[JimPghPA]

Once you get the tensioner to hold to give you the slack some people find it easier to reposition the belt if you remove the wheel and the fender liner. I made a rod with two right angled screws on the end to help move the belt around when it was towards the bottom. And I was able to get my arm down there to get the belt in the right positions. But my 2016 doesn't have power steering so it might be different on an earlier model.

 

[zzyzzx]

I have the Lisle ratcheting version and like it a lot. I would recommend it over the non-ratcheting. I have another brand of non-ratcheting tensioner removal tool and sometimes it doesn't work as well as the ratcheting Lisle version. My ratcheting tool came in a plastic case.

I also own and highly recommend the Lisle ratcheting version. Think of it as a confined space long arm ratchet. You will find other uses for it!!!

 

[Jango]

I have a CRV and best option for me was to use box end wrench on tensioner bolt and link another box end wrench to the open end of the first wrench.