Searching for a single oil to run in three cars spanning 33 years of age…

Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
20
Location
Bay Area, CA
We currently own three Volkswagens.

1990 8v 1.8 L Cabriolet with 44,000 original miles.
2004 R32 with a 3.2 L VR6 - spec VW 502
2019 Golf R - spec VW 504 0w30 on engine bay sticker, but owners manual mentions the use of 5w30 or 5w40 as okay.

AFAIK the ‘90 has always had 20w50 Dino oil and was dealer serviced through 2009 when it was mostly parked, it was dealer serviced and then driven for about 6 months in 2016. We got it in 2017.

Been running LM LLHT 5w40 in the R32.
Been running VWs 0w30 from the parts counter sticking to the engine bay sticker.

I drive the absolute piss out of the R32 most of the time. I’m always throttle/rev heavy becuse VR6 noises.

Drive the Golf R hard a couple times a month in the mountains and occasionally get on it hard around town but mostly not.
The MK1 mostly sits, gets about 1500 miles a year.

I am looking for a single oil that would be great to use in all 3 so I’m only buying one oil. I’m guessing there’s a 5w30 that would be a great choice to use in all 3 but my primary concern is the MK1 as the chart in the owners manual, along with some bold type, indicate a 5w30 is usable but not recommended for longer or high speed drives… we do some longer drives in it from time to time. (Attaching the spec chart).

Live in SF Bay Area. Coldest start I’ve had in 10 years here was in 22°F. Seen temps as high as 118°F on the road while driving but only a couple weeks a year if ever.

What’s my silver bullet oil here, BITOG hive mind? Thank you!

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I’d go with a Euro 5w-30 in that cool climate (in fact, I now do and my climate is very similar to yours).

The Euro 30 is going to be tougher than a typical 30 by a fair margin (~3.1 HTHS vs. 3.5). It will be enough for your driving habits and for a VR6 (I had one in the past in a Passat). That avoids the extra VIIs of a 40 that you don’t really need. A 5w-40 would work - I’m just a bit picky about avoiding VIIs I don’t need because of turbos also in my “fleet.”
 
I’d go with a Euro 5w-30 in that cool climate (in fact, I now do and my climate is very similar to yours).

The Euro 30 is going to be tougher than a typical 30 by a fair margin (~3.1 HTHS vs. 3.5). It will be enough for your driving habits and for a VR6 (I had one in the past in a Passat). That avoids the extra VIIs of a 40 that you don’t really need.
What’re you running?
 
What’re you running?

In the past, I ran Mobil 1 10w-30 HM in everything, and it worked great. I’m switching now because it’s been re-formulated for SP and the HTHS has dropped a bit. They no longer claim it can meat Euro ACEA A3/Bx which has been my benchmark. 5w-30 Euros will meet A3/B4 for high anti-wear and long OCIs. I’m not up to speed fully on all the subtleties between the major brands yet but am using PP 5w-30 Euro in two cars now. I’m about to take the Mobil 1 out of two Volvo turbos later this winter so will use that or a similar Euro 5w-30.

Other people here will know the exact ins/outs of the major “Euro” formulations more than I do (so far; am trying to get up to speed when I have time the next month).
 
I use M-1 0w-40 in vehicles spanning 55 years.

Including various Fords, Shelby’s, Triumphs, MG’s , and Jaguars from the 1960’s and ‘70’s thru to Jaguars & Fords made in the 2000’s - 2020’s. Not to mention my 10 year old Honda lawn mower.

The engines all perform as designed, and life is good.

Z

PS: have used interchangeably M-1 5w-40 as well, when the M-1 0w-40 was not available readily. No apparent differences in oil pressure or oil temperature.
 
Thanks to those who have replied so far.

I should say, but I doubt it had anything to do with anything, but my sticking point with M1 0w40, which I used to use religiously in various cars for 15 years or so, was that I regularly had 1L consumption every 5k OCI in every MK7 VW I ran it in (4 different cars) and one of those cars lost cyl3 at 37k miles… so M1 leaves a bad taste in the mouth…

I never noticed any consumption with LM LLHT which is what I switched to and ran on those cars and am running in the VR6 now. I also haven’t noticed any consumption with dealer 0w30 in the Golf R (though I guess that Mobil too).
 
I don't believe a silver bullet oil is the most cost effective, but something like Valvoline XLIII or Castrol Edge Euro LL.

An oil that meets VW 504.

If it were me I would put VW 502 in the 8V and the R32, and VW 504 in the R. Any extra half quarts left over I would mix and put in the 8v, since it's basically a tractor.
 
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M1 ESP 0w40 X3 or similar. In fact, anything that meets VW 511 & Porsche C40 would work a treat in all of them.

VW 511 is essentially a thicker version of 504/507.
 
I don’t know, why not? This is why I’m here :)
That’d still be okay for the old MK1?

So pennzoil euro, castrol edge euro, m1 FS euro, valvoline euro, some other option or stick with LM LLHT?
If it were me, that's what I would do. I don't see a euro 5w-40 causing any problems, provided, of course, good maintenance is kept up.
 
Castrol Euro Car 5W40. The new one that is now API SP.

Or the new M1 Euro 0W40. API SP covers the newest car while the A3/B4 should cover the older two.
 
The older engine recommends an oil between 15W-40 and 20W-50 for ambient temperatures up to 30 C (which isn't even that hot). A 5W-40 would be on the thin side. I'd abandon the idea of using one oil for everything, and use a quality synthetic Euro 5W-30 or 5W-40 in the newer cars, and a cheap conventional 15W-40 or thicker in the old car.
 
If it were me, that's what I would do. I don't see a euro 5w-40 causing any problems, provided, of course, good maintenance is kept up.
Thanks to you and to everyone else.

I typically do 6 month or 5k changes (whichever first) on the two newer cars and once a year on the 1990 8v 1.8.

I know it’s overpriced and prob not the preferred oil in these parts, but I may stick with the LM LLHT since it sounds like it will be fine in all 3 cars and I can change it as often as I want with FCPEuro’s return policy and PayPal’s free return shipping program.
 
The older engine recommends an oil between 15W-40 and 20W-50 for ambient temperatures up to 30 C (which isn't even that hot). A 5W-40 would be on the thin side. I'd abandon the idea of using one oil for everything, and use a quality synthetic Euro 5W-30 or 5W-40 in the newer cars, and a cheap conventional 15W-40 or thicker in the old car.
Yeah see, this is my concern. I’m not sure how much attention is being paid to that chart for the old car.

I did post here about it long ago and was told to stick with the 20w50 or 15w40 as well.

Decisions decisions
 
M1 0w40 is what i use in my 1976 Oldsmobile v8, 2005 Silverado v8, all my outdoor power equipment (lawnmowers and snowblower and generator) and I would use it in my wife's 2013 Sonata if it wasn't for the extended warranty on the engine because of the recall for the engines seizing up all the time.
 
The older engine recommends an oil between 15W-40 and 20W-50 for ambient temperatures up to 30 C (which isn't even that hot). A 5W-40 would be on the thin side. I'd abandon the idea of using one oil for everything, and use a quality synthetic Euro 5W-30 or 5W-40 in the newer cars, and a cheap conventional 15W-40 or thicker in the old car.
Both 15W40 and 5W40 are 40 grade oils with viscosities in the same 40 grade range. The number before the W should only matter in extremely cold weather.
 
Both 15W40 and 5W40 are 40 grade oils with viscosities in the same 40 grade range. The number before the W should only matter in extremely cold weather.
15W-40's have a higher minimum HTHS requirement than 0W or 5W-40's. At shear rates even higher than those used for the HTHS measurement, there will be a larger difference, with the 15W-40 being much thicker. The W number is relevant to high temperature protection, even though that's not what it's meant for.
 
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