Ahh had to post once more to add this thread to my watch list, I forgot to with my other 2 posts.
Rotella t6 in a 00 Corolla?
- Thread starter LeakySeals
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Yes, please keep us posted on the progress with the T6. My '99 Corolla has the same problem no matter what oil I use. It consistently burns 1 qt every 1000 miles. I just changed the oil in it today and put in Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance. I had been running M1 0W-30 AFE. This is the only problem I have with the car, otherwise it is very reliable. I just have to check/add oil every few weeks.
I have tried running PU, PP, Edge, Castrol conventional, and all burn at the same rate. I came close to putting some M1 HM in it today, but decided to give the Extended Performance a try.
I have tried running PU, PP, Edge, Castrol conventional, and all burn at the same rate. I came close to putting some M1 HM in it today, but decided to give the Extended Performance a try.
I maintain a Matrix with one of these oil burner 1zz engines, and switched it to T6 when I last changed the oil on it in October. It seems to have cut consumption down to half at a qt per 3k right off the bat coming from the 5w20 that they were running in it (even though it calls for a 5w-30). I'll probably switch it to PU 5w30 on the next change with 5k on the T6, then stretch it out to 8k or so if things continue to improve.
--Matt
--Matt
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Although a completely different beast, my truck in my sig is an oil burner. Bad. And almost all the oil is burnt in Cylinder #1....because that cylinder's plug fouls in 500 miles. After 15k miles, the other 7 plugs all still look great.
I've tried 4 Kreen piston soaks on this cylinder. None of them touched the problem. Maybe I have a broken ring. Who knows.
I've tried 4 Kreen piston soaks on this cylinder. None of them touched the problem. Maybe I have a broken ring. Who knows.
Hi LeakySeals, just wondering whats the update on your Corolla, apart from ticking sound has the oil consumption reduced too?
Originally Posted By: Ibrahim
Hi LeakySeals, just wondering whats the update on your Corolla, apart from ticking sound has the oil consumption reduced too?
Leaky no longer has his Corolla (and he is missed on the Toyota Nation 8th gen Corolla forums!!) but I am running T6 in my 2000 Corolla as well, so I'll start updating this thread, as well.
So far, I've had T6 in the sump for less than 100 miles and my VVT-i tick is already gone. I've got an intake valve tick on cylinder 3 that I'm not too worried about, the cams and valves all looked good when I had the valve cover off and clearances are all in-spec.
Regarding consumption, if I recall correctly (and Leaky will probably correct me if I am wrong), that's why he got rid of the car. It was too far gone for the T6 do do anything. I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels. Unfortunately, that means I won't be able to answer whether or not T6 would fix the oil burning issue, but I can definitely advise, after this OCI, as to whether it keeps it gone. If it does, it's reasonable to think it would clean it up, as well.
A couple things to keep in mind if you've got an 8th gen Corolla with the clogged oil return hole issue: First, oil has to flow through the holes to clean them; thinner oil will flow better through partially clogged holes, while no oil will flow through completely clogged holes. This means that you can only cure the problem with oils and additives if none of the holes are blocked completely, which is why some people are successful and others are not. The other thing to keep in mind is that if you have a completely clogged oil return hole, you're soon to have completely stuck oil control and compression rings, and soon after that the oil will begin coking up in the combustion chamber. You'll start with a loss of compression as the rings stick, followed by greatly increased compression and hot spots as the deposits build in the combustion chamber, eventually leading to engine failure.
If you think you've got completely clogged oil return holes, address them quickly with a partial rebuild. This process involves removing the head and pistons, using a small drill bit to clear out the oil return holes in the pistons, possibly drilling additional (larger) holes, and replacing the piston rings. Many people who do this also take the time to replace the valve guides and seals while they've got the head off. Remember, there is no oil or additive fix possible if any of the holes (even just one) are completely clogged.
Hi LeakySeals, just wondering whats the update on your Corolla, apart from ticking sound has the oil consumption reduced too?
Leaky no longer has his Corolla (and he is missed on the Toyota Nation 8th gen Corolla forums!!) but I am running T6 in my 2000 Corolla as well, so I'll start updating this thread, as well.
So far, I've had T6 in the sump for less than 100 miles and my VVT-i tick is already gone. I've got an intake valve tick on cylinder 3 that I'm not too worried about, the cams and valves all looked good when I had the valve cover off and clearances are all in-spec.
Regarding consumption, if I recall correctly (and Leaky will probably correct me if I am wrong), that's why he got rid of the car. It was too far gone for the T6 do do anything. I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels. Unfortunately, that means I won't be able to answer whether or not T6 would fix the oil burning issue, but I can definitely advise, after this OCI, as to whether it keeps it gone. If it does, it's reasonable to think it would clean it up, as well.
A couple things to keep in mind if you've got an 8th gen Corolla with the clogged oil return hole issue: First, oil has to flow through the holes to clean them; thinner oil will flow better through partially clogged holes, while no oil will flow through completely clogged holes. This means that you can only cure the problem with oils and additives if none of the holes are blocked completely, which is why some people are successful and others are not. The other thing to keep in mind is that if you have a completely clogged oil return hole, you're soon to have completely stuck oil control and compression rings, and soon after that the oil will begin coking up in the combustion chamber. You'll start with a loss of compression as the rings stick, followed by greatly increased compression and hot spots as the deposits build in the combustion chamber, eventually leading to engine failure.
If you think you've got completely clogged oil return holes, address them quickly with a partial rebuild. This process involves removing the head and pistons, using a small drill bit to clear out the oil return holes in the pistons, possibly drilling additional (larger) holes, and replacing the piston rings. Many people who do this also take the time to replace the valve guides and seals while they've got the head off. Remember, there is no oil or additive fix possible if any of the holes (even just one) are completely clogged.
Originally Posted By: mkosem
I maintain a Matrix with one of these oil burner 1zz engines, and switched it to T6 when I last changed the oil on it in October. It seems to have cut consumption down to half at a qt per 3k right off the bat coming from the 5w20 that they were running in it (even though it calls for a 5w-30). I'll probably switch it to PU 5w30 on the next change with 5k on the T6, then stretch it out to 8k or so if things continue to improve.
--Matt
If you're seeing improvement, a couple runs of PU at 3k (possibly topping up with MMO at 2k) should cure it for you. I just cured mine with a single run of PU, changed out at 2750 and am running T6 in it for this OCI to see if the different add-pack in that will pick up anything the PU/MMO may have missed. Just under 100 miles on it so far and it's already visible on the dipstick -- it was completely transparent when it went in -- so it looks like it's doing some more cleaning.
I maintain a Matrix with one of these oil burner 1zz engines, and switched it to T6 when I last changed the oil on it in October. It seems to have cut consumption down to half at a qt per 3k right off the bat coming from the 5w20 that they were running in it (even though it calls for a 5w-30). I'll probably switch it to PU 5w30 on the next change with 5k on the T6, then stretch it out to 8k or so if things continue to improve.
--Matt
If you're seeing improvement, a couple runs of PU at 3k (possibly topping up with MMO at 2k) should cure it for you. I just cured mine with a single run of PU, changed out at 2750 and am running T6 in it for this OCI to see if the different add-pack in that will pick up anything the PU/MMO may have missed. Just under 100 miles on it so far and it's already visible on the dipstick -- it was completely transparent when it went in -- so it looks like it's doing some more cleaning.
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels.
How do you know if it wasn't MMO that fixed your consumption?
I did have great (but temporary) results with MMO piston soaks alone.
I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels.
How do you know if it wasn't MMO that fixed your consumption?
I did have great (but temporary) results with MMO piston soaks alone.
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels.
How do you know if it wasn't MMO that fixed your consumption?
I did have great (but temporary) results with MMO piston soaks alone.
My theory is that it actually *was* the MMO. That oil didn't darken up much in 2k, but boy was it black when I drained it at 2738.
Also... just caught a typo in that post... "rat is" should be "ran it"
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I fixed my consumption with Pennzoil Ultra, rat is straight for 2k miles before adding 1/2qt of MMO to top it off; 750 miles later and the burning has fallen to "margin of error reading the dipstick" levels.
How do you know if it wasn't MMO that fixed your consumption?
I did have great (but temporary) results with MMO piston soaks alone.
My theory is that it actually *was* the MMO. That oil didn't darken up much in 2k, but boy was it black when I drained it at 2738.
Also... just caught a typo in that post... "rat is" should be "ran it"
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
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Thank you & appreciate your feedback, I'm aware of those issues & really glad to hear about your experience with T6. Running M1 & Castrol Euro-oils along with Lucas fuel system treatment (and Redline S1 once a year) with Octane 91 gas once every 6 months have helped across the board. I have decided to switch to T6 indefinitely on Corolla for rest of its life as of next OCI.
Current mileage about 190K mostly city-miles with almost daily early morning starts & slow drive to work and my sisters light footed driving style.
Running over size filter (Camry's 2.4L engine) and as per TSB pour 0.5L extra oil in the sump.
Much appreciate for jumping in, thank you again KeMBro2012!
p.s - PU is not widely available (only via NAPA) & is cost prohibitive.
Current mileage about 190K mostly city-miles with almost daily early morning starts & slow drive to work and my sisters light footed driving style.
Running over size filter (Camry's 2.4L engine) and as per TSB pour 0.5L extra oil in the sump.
Much appreciate for jumping in, thank you again KeMBro2012!
p.s - PU is not widely available (only via NAPA) & is cost prohibitive.
Originally Posted By: Ibrahim
Current mileage about 190K mostly city-miles with almost daily early morning starts & slow drive to work and my sisters light footed driving style.
Running over size filter (Camry's 2.4L engine) and as per TSB pour 0.5L extra oil in the sump.
166k mixed miles on mine. I drive it hard, as did the previous owner. Between he and I, though, I only have barely 2yr of this car's history. No clue what was done with it before he bought it.
Likewise with that oversized filter. Am I remembering correctly that the bypass on that is 1 or 2 PSI higher? Definitely a plus, since I tend to keep the RPMs up.
Current mileage about 190K mostly city-miles with almost daily early morning starts & slow drive to work and my sisters light footed driving style.
Running over size filter (Camry's 2.4L engine) and as per TSB pour 0.5L extra oil in the sump.
166k mixed miles on mine. I drive it hard, as did the previous owner. Between he and I, though, I only have barely 2yr of this car's history. No clue what was done with it before he bought it.
Likewise with that oversized filter. Am I remembering correctly that the bypass on that is 1 or 2 PSI higher? Definitely a plus, since I tend to keep the RPMs up.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
That's exactly what I was saying, it cleaned the crud off that was stopping the failed gasket from leaking, and subsequently I had Niagara Falls.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
That's exactly what I was saying, it cleaned the crud off that was stopping the failed gasket from leaking, and subsequently I had Niagara Falls.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
That's exactly what I was saying, it cleaned the crud off that was stopping the failed gasket from leaking, and subsequently I had Niagara Falls.
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
I've got a quick update. I pulled my VC today so I could take the cover off the VVT-i gear and see what it looked like inside, being pretty sure it was gonna be somewhat dirty. Now I wish I had taken the thing apart last time I had the VC off so I'd have some before shots -- it's pretty [censored] clean.
I checked the "B" trip meter, which I reset when I changed my oil, and it was at 56.5 miles when I pulled the VC tonight. T6 is already making a huge improvement, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. I'll actually be posting a new thread (with B/A pics) here shortly about that.
56.5 miles. [censored].
Sounds like Mobil 1 in my 302. I feel your pain. I ended up with valve cover gaskets pouring oil out of them after a few weeks with it.
Pain? I hope your joking. You best be blaming those leaks on M1's cleaning, buddy!
Truth be told, I felt that 5w40 T6 was too thick for this motor, so it's 3qt of that with 1qt of M1 0w20 to thin the mix. It's possible that the quart of M1 is doing all of this. or that I've stumbled across some magic brew here, but since I'm running 75% T6 I'm giving it the credit. That said, I would recommend this brew in an engine calling for 5w30, just on the off chance that it's the combination of oils, rather than one or the other.
That's exactly what I was saying, it cleaned the crud off that was stopping the failed gasket from leaking, and subsequently I had Niagara Falls.
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
and he will suggest to use LuquiMoly!
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
and he will suggest to use LuquiMoly!
Originally Posted By: Ibrahim
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
and he will suggest to use LuquiMoly!
But he says moly is a horrible additive!!
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Skyship would say that was the fault of the oil and you should have used a HM oil instead.
hahhhahhaha!
and he will suggest to use LuquiMoly!
But he says moly is a horrible additive!!
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