Replacing 192 thermostat with 180 for better oil life ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
quote:

Originally posted by QuadDriver:

quote:

Originally posted by tpi:
An observation: When 190 degree plus thermostats became common in the late '60s I saw the beginning of much cleaner engine internals.

AND...

The 'road draft tube' was replaced by the PCV....

'color' of the inside of the motor means nothing to me. Its caused by oil and blowby vapor coming in contact with extremely hot surfaces. I have pulled apart 'amsoil since birth' engines that were just as carmel colored as 'changed the oil when I felt like it' engines.

The real arbiter(s) are stuff like cylinder taper, bearing wear, crank/cam/skirt scoring. I have taken off fairly clean valve covers on 3.1s that had the bearings crushed to the point of failure. See my point?


Yes. In CA. the road draft tubes were eliminated in 1961. I'm not talking bronze carmel color, I'm talking thick black sludge. After the switch to 190 degree thermostats, the engines looked cleaner and yes when pulling heads the bores were in much better shape. IMO the later introduction of unleaded fuel and common fuel injection also did wonders to improve engine cleanliness and engine wear in typical driving scenarios.

The high temp thermostats were used to help prevent condensate on manifold surfaces and bores on the carbureted engines. The goal was to improve air-fuel mixing. This allowed a leaner idle and cruise mixture because of better cylinder to cylinder mixture distribution. The engines did not have 3 way cat converters and often ran leaner than stoichiometric at light throttle cruise (for emission purposes).

Now with port injection, some engines are going back to a lower thermostat opening for a little more power. The port injection has excellent fuel distribution and mixing, the cat handles much of the emission work, and the lower temp cylinder walls and manifold increase charge density slighly and reduce detonation. Bore wash is no longer a big problem since the demise of the frequently horrible automatic choke.

I'm not a one size fits all advocate here. For many people doing typical short trips with numerous shutdowns in cool or cold conditions the high temperature thermostats have been in the plus column.

[ August 21, 2004, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: tpi ]
 
tpi:

in your general opinion, a Canadian car that doesn't see much highway driving (less than ten minutes per trip) and driven short distances (but enough to open up the thermostat) should have a higher temp thermostat - perhaps even a 205?

Car is a code H 305 SBC with carb.

No sarcasm is intended - I'm actually very interested in the answer.
 
Where I work we have about 18 Chevy Cavaliers with the 2.2 engine and aluminum head. They are used to deliver newspapers from mailbox to mailbox. We seem to have a lot better luck with 180 thermostats. A few engines have 160,000 miles and use very little oil. Quite a few of them have had the head gasket replaced.
Went to the Parts Store to get a new thermostat and they sold us a 180. Said that was what it called for.
But we are using them to deliver newspapers and they run for a couple hours at a time. So it depends on what it's used for.
 
i'd leave it with the stock 195 which is the temp it just starts to crack. The coolant typically runs above 200 degrees at the discharge. The auto chokes improved in the emission era (at least from the bore wash perspective). Do be alert for rich running signs when on the choke such as chugging or excessive puffing black smoke. You want the choke as lean as possible and still start and run a cold engine. Those "choke pull off" devices can be problematic, the diaphragms leak and the choke won't crack open when the engine starts.

If it has the hot air intake feature to the air cleaner assembly, be sure it is regulating the temperature. It should direct hot air off exhaust manifold heat stove to give intake air temp of about 100 degrees. At full throttle it should open for full cold air. This helps warmup time and fuel mixture during warmup.

Also on many of the 305 a vacuum operated exhaust manifold heat riser valve was present. This forces exhause thru crossover passages in intake manifold on a cold engine. Be sure that system is working by watching the action of the valve on a cold start. Touch the heat passages on intake manifold (carefully
grin.gif
) after a cold start to make sure they get hot quickly. Often they clog with carbon after a time. If clogged I'd pull the manifold and clean (given your driving scenario).

[ August 21, 2004, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: tpi ]
 
I pur 180* stats in both my 88 Camaro and the wife's 94 Scort. The engines do run cooler with the 180s as opposed to the stock 195s. Be careful drilling holes, though. In ther Camaro, I tried 3 holes and it was too much, the car would never warm up in the winter. 2 holes is better in that car, it will warm up in winter, and it still delays the warmup in summer. On the Scort, I drilled one hole. Works fine. Engines are a little less prone to detonation when they run cooler. They still pass smog test, even though in California, the 180 stats are technically illegal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top