Replacement nuts and bolts for suspension parts

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Originally Posted By: GMBoy

And - how do you know that Aveco or Rockford were not the OEM supplier anyhow? They could of been.


That is precisely the message I was trying to convey to you.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: GMBoy

And - how do you know that Aveco or Rockford were not the OEM supplier anyhow? They could of been.


That is precisely the message I was trying to convey to you.
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My mistake. LOL!
 
Except for wheel bolts, I've rarely seen special bolt metallurgy. The only thing special about suspension bolts may be the architecture (or shape) of the bolt. It may have a special head or built-in washer. If you can physically match the bolt and use the same grade, you are good to go.

Most cities have shops that specialize in fasteners.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Except for wheel bolts, I've rarely seen special bolt metallurgy. The only thing special about suspension bolts may be the architecture (or shape) of the bolt.


When I made that comment I wasn't referring necessarily to space age materials science. Instead I meant things like a particular piece being specifically softer than another so any kind of failure is at a specific point. Or, for instance, made from different metals altogether. My suspension hardware is probably aluminum, just like the suspension itself is, because it doesn't rust. It could also have a certain kind of coating on it which looks like aluminum (it's not stainless steel, or zinc plated). The OP was talking about replacement because they were all rusty. Should I go to the hardware store and buy some steel bolts and throw them in? Does the OP know exactly the material and hardness of everything he's looking to replace?

Unless the rust is severe, most of the bolts might be able to be cleaned acceptably. Every suspension procedure I've read tells the mechanic to replace the nuts because they're often one of various kinds of locking nuts that shouldn't be reused. If the OP can clean up the original bolts, replace the nuts with OE (as instructed to) and then do a little rust proofing after assembly he would save a lot of cash versus replacing everything with OE and still have exactly the correct parts.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Except for wheel bolts, I've rarely seen special bolt metallurgy. The only thing special about suspension bolts may be the architecture (or shape) of the bolt. It may have a special head or built-in washer. If you can physically match the bolt and use the same grade, you are good to go.

Most cities have shops that specialize in fasteners.



There are many bolts on a vehicle designed to shear at a certain force as part of the collision process to absorb energy, etc.
 
Markings on the fastener head have a direct correlation with hardness and strength. There should be no mystery there.

Coatings are a variable that I hadn't thought of. The aluminum-like coating is likely Dacromet, an organic-based (dip or spray) coating. Electroplating a high strength bolt introduces the possibility of hydrogen embrittlment, which can produce a devastating failure if improperly plated.
 
Unless you drive your Altima like it's a race car, hardware store nuts and bolts will do. However there are likely some bolt sizes in your suspension that you can't get from anywhere but the dealer (or a fastener supply store).
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
There are many bolts on a vehicle designed to shear at a certain force as part of the collision process to absorb energy, etc.

But that design will be by selecting the size of the fastener, not by the grade. All the bolts I see on a car are 10.9.
 
Are the bolts to be replaced TTY? (torque to yeild?) shouldered? grade specific?

you can do about anything, just be sure what you use is adequate.

If its generic bolts you need/can use - TCS (tractor supply) sells G5 and 8 in bins at a price per pound - way cheaper than anywhere else.

I once ordered a selection of G8 9/16ths for suspension/hitch work on trucks for the shop. they screwed up and sent me 4x what I ordered...but at some point a box failed so UPS taped it all together - I got something the size and weight of a GM V6 engine...they then asked for the overage back and I was willing to send, but when they computed the shipping cost they told me to keep it. I can bolt spring hangers and hitches on trucks for the next 10 years...
 
TSC supplies SAE fasteners in bulk. Cars are all metric. If they would supply metric fasteners at that price they'd be golden.
 
I'd be weary of trying to clean corroded fasteners. I've attempted it in the past what ends up happening is you scrape the protective coating off and the rust or corrosion starts again much sooner. This was using a bench grinder mounted wire wheel.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I'd be weary of trying to clean corroded fasteners. I've attempted it in the past what ends up happening is you scrape the protective coating off and the rust or corrosion starts again much sooner. This was using a bench grinder mounted wire wheel.


That's true. Most hardware is either black oxide coated or zinc chromate. Siver cadmium was the best but cadmium is not used anymore for environmental and health reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: severach
TSC supplies SAE fasteners in bulk. Cars are all metric. If they would supply metric fasteners at that price they'd be golden.


dont be so quick to believe that, most domestic manus use metric heads but sae threads and for suspension stuff, unless its a threaded hole, you can generally use an sae fastener
 
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