Car gets 3-5k/yr. Pads are OE. D537 caliper.
As seen in the picture, the inboard pad measured 3mm and has some tapered wear.
Replace or leave it?
Last edited:
Replace brake pads?
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
Car gets 3-5k/yr. Pads are OE. D537 caliper.
As seen in the picture, the inboard pad measured 3mm and has some tapered wear.
Replace or leave it?
Clean and re-grease the slider pins so that the pads wear more evenly.
Pins are free.
Someone greased the abutment clips and it attracted a lot of dirt, so the pads do not move as freely.
It the car doesn't get driven a whole lot leave them.
looks like its on the back so id leave it and keep a set on hand. pads are so cheap i don't think anyone would fault you for changing them tho.
I would leave them, since the vehicle doesn't get driven much.
Considering the low annual mileage, I would also leave it for now. Check on them again in 6 months.
Looks like it has some time left on it, but you don't have to deal with rust so you can probably wait a few months.
Over here where you have to deal with rust, it would be worth replacing sooner since rust causes a lot of problems with sticky calipers.
3-5k a year isn't a lot of driving, but the kind of driving done in a low annual mileage car involves disproportionately more stops and more brake usage.
Over here where you have to deal with rust, it would be worth replacing sooner since rust causes a lot of problems with sticky calipers.
3-5k a year isn't a lot of driving, but the kind of driving done in a low annual mileage car involves disproportionately more stops and more brake usage.
Inboard looks to be worn more and, as you say, tapered. Something ain't right.
Can't the tapered pad lead to judder?
I vote to fix it.
Can't the tapered pad lead to judder?
I vote to fix it.
This is one of those cases where it's more about how much your time is worth and how much you like re-doing the job very soon, and what the value of money is to you.
Plenty of money, and/or don't like re-doing the labor? Replace cheap parts while your hands are greasy on dirty PITA jobs. Pads are cheap, labor is expensive.
However, if you're broke and/or like redoing the job in a year? You can make these last awhile and put it off for a spell.
I tend to be in the former camp but it really just depends. But usually, if I am going thru the trouble of many steps and getting pretty dirty and spending an afternoon, I am inclined to replace any wear parts that are a "maybe" if they are cheap and not difficult while I already have the XYZ off or disassembled or torn apart, etc.
Plenty of money, and/or don't like re-doing the labor? Replace cheap parts while your hands are greasy on dirty PITA jobs. Pads are cheap, labor is expensive.
However, if you're broke and/or like redoing the job in a year? You can make these last awhile and put it off for a spell.
I tend to be in the former camp but it really just depends. But usually, if I am going thru the trouble of many steps and getting pretty dirty and spending an afternoon, I am inclined to replace any wear parts that are a "maybe" if they are cheap and not difficult while I already have the XYZ off or disassembled or torn apart, etc.
Sell pads to a customer.
Keep an eye on them if they're mine.
Keep an eye on them if they're mine.
I say marvel at the California goodness.
I'd leave then and change them just before the cold weather sets in. Oh wait you're sunny warm CA. Leave them on and check again in about 5K miles.
At 3-5K a year as long as they were not making a racket I would leave it till this time next year then do a proper job on it. If the car saw more use then yes change them.
How close is the backing plate to the gap between carrier and disc? You're fine if the backing plate makes full contact with the carrier. But I think you're getting close