I just made it! Luckily for me everyone else was a little late as well! Church was very empty that day. The -18F weather was keeping a lot of people home that day. I do not know what it was with windchill but I can say it was cold!!! It took longer then normal to get heat in the car! I had to heat the tires and strut oil up before I could really play hard!!
Redline 5w-40, 3k miles, 300whp 1.8T
- Thread starter Tyrolkid
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Anything can happen when you're late for church.
Toyota Camry has a redline higher than Integra type-R and almost as high as S2000??!?
Well I have taken up to 7800- 8000 RPM's counting the stupid electronic over rev and I did not hit the rev limiter. I am guessing that it must be set at 8200 like the H.O.1.8L in the Celica. I have not set out to hit it just to see where it is. I can tell you they have limited it's top speed to 127 according my speed-o! I am considering a reflash or a hard soldiered aux chip to revise things like speed limiter, fuel maps, ignition curves, cam phaseing etc... I also need to find a source for H.O. Cams for this engine. I will mail order from Japan if I have to!
If it should be lower then that I must of lucked out.
I have been tempted to try restart at speed to see if the speed limiter can be overridden. My Dakota would do this. Once you were driveing as you neared 117MPH you simply kept your right foot planted and twisted the key to start. When you did this the cluster would loose power and the ECM/PCM would go into a test cycle. THis alowed you to continue to accelerate until your engine flew apat or you airodynaics stoped you!
If you vechile does not have relay to prevent activateing the starter once the vechile is runing do not even try this!
Jason this little engine is a gem. It does not have the power density it could have. They have severly detuned this little engine! This engine is screaming out for a twin seq. turbo set up or at least an OEM 8-14 psi supercharger kit!!!! I was compareing the 2AZ-FE and the 2ZZ used in the celica and the matrix on a stand the other day! They are remarkable simalar! THe valve covers were off and the heads and valve train looked almost identical they could have been twins to the naked eye.
I suspect that as time goes on we will see more use of this little engine in more models !!! THe power band is so smooth and broad with the VVT-I that it actualy feels more powerful then the larger 2.7L I4 used in the trucks even though it is not. It does not behave like Honda V-Tec. The Toyota VVT-i is more continious system not just at high RPM's like Honda V-TEC.
My only complaints are as follows: THe engine over revs even when you take you foot off the gas to shift by 300 rpms. The throttle by wire and VVT-i appear to have been optimized for an automatic and the cold start function interferes with cam phaseing and throttle response when cold. The computer will hesistate when you are trying to take off from a cold start sometimes and it almost simulates turbolag type feeling! You can feel the computer is laging behind on cold starts when you start to take off and you feel it readjusting cam phaseing. It only does this while it is cold the first take off or too!
I have thought about takeing back to dealer for reflash but am afraid too. What if this is a symptom of what ever is giveing it such kick butt performance. I do not want a flash of death that will enhance driveability when cold the first 2 minutes but take away the power, performance and fun I have right now. THe above problems are gone buy the time I am out of the parking lot at work!
P.S. I thought the S2000 had a 10,000 RPM fuel cut? My 8200 suspected fuel cut is well below 10,000. For what it is worth I built one of my 22RE's to take 10,000 RPM's. I routinely ran it up to 9500 RPMS! I ran a custom headers 2.5 inch exhaust and a 3'-4' Red glass pack! Talk about setting off car alarms, wakeing people up and ratteling windows!!! Everyone on campus knew when I was comeing back from a party!
SOmeone should maybe rent one from a rental lot! It would be nice to see where the needle stops on someone elses!! My little family hualer also out reves the LS6 in the Z06 Vette, the V10 in the Dodge Viper and proably the I4 in the Neon SRT-4 and many others. The Toyota Carolla will soon be offered with a tunner package. It will have the same 1.8 I4 from the Celica and the same 6 spd gear box so a $14000 car will soon be turning 8200RPM from toyota. The engine in my Camry is going to be offered in the Scion tx tuned more for performance. Their has been talk of them superchargeing it to 240-250 HP as well!
[ February 24, 2004, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
If it should be lower then that I must of lucked out.
I have been tempted to try restart at speed to see if the speed limiter can be overridden. My Dakota would do this. Once you were driveing as you neared 117MPH you simply kept your right foot planted and twisted the key to start. When you did this the cluster would loose power and the ECM/PCM would go into a test cycle. THis alowed you to continue to accelerate until your engine flew apat or you airodynaics stoped you!
If you vechile does not have relay to prevent activateing the starter once the vechile is runing do not even try this!
Jason this little engine is a gem. It does not have the power density it could have. They have severly detuned this little engine! This engine is screaming out for a twin seq. turbo set up or at least an OEM 8-14 psi supercharger kit!!!! I was compareing the 2AZ-FE and the 2ZZ used in the celica and the matrix on a stand the other day! They are remarkable simalar! THe valve covers were off and the heads and valve train looked almost identical they could have been twins to the naked eye.
I suspect that as time goes on we will see more use of this little engine in more models !!! THe power band is so smooth and broad with the VVT-I that it actualy feels more powerful then the larger 2.7L I4 used in the trucks even though it is not. It does not behave like Honda V-Tec. The Toyota VVT-i is more continious system not just at high RPM's like Honda V-TEC.
My only complaints are as follows: THe engine over revs even when you take you foot off the gas to shift by 300 rpms. The throttle by wire and VVT-i appear to have been optimized for an automatic and the cold start function interferes with cam phaseing and throttle response when cold. The computer will hesistate when you are trying to take off from a cold start sometimes and it almost simulates turbolag type feeling! You can feel the computer is laging behind on cold starts when you start to take off and you feel it readjusting cam phaseing. It only does this while it is cold the first take off or too!
I have thought about takeing back to dealer for reflash but am afraid too. What if this is a symptom of what ever is giveing it such kick butt performance. I do not want a flash of death that will enhance driveability when cold the first 2 minutes but take away the power, performance and fun I have right now. THe above problems are gone buy the time I am out of the parking lot at work!
P.S. I thought the S2000 had a 10,000 RPM fuel cut? My 8200 suspected fuel cut is well below 10,000. For what it is worth I built one of my 22RE's to take 10,000 RPM's. I routinely ran it up to 9500 RPMS! I ran a custom headers 2.5 inch exhaust and a 3'-4' Red glass pack! Talk about setting off car alarms, wakeing people up and ratteling windows!!! Everyone on campus knew when I was comeing back from a party!
SOmeone should maybe rent one from a rental lot! It would be nice to see where the needle stops on someone elses!! My little family hualer also out reves the LS6 in the Z06 Vette, the V10 in the Dodge Viper and proably the I4 in the Neon SRT-4 and many others. The Toyota Carolla will soon be offered with a tunner package. It will have the same 1.8 I4 from the Celica and the same 6 spd gear box so a $14000 car will soon be turning 8200RPM from toyota. The engine in my Camry is going to be offered in the Scion tx tuned more for performance. Their has been talk of them superchargeing it to 240-250 HP as well!
[ February 24, 2004, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
I like the iron and lead numbers. I would love to do overkill sampling, say every 1k miles with this oil after the M1 oil, to see the "scavanger" effect of the redline and also I read about most wear occuring early (myth?).
But on my car the oil comes shooting out literally by the gallon so I would lose so much and have to refill it would make subsequent tests worthless. Afraid of the fumoto valve cuz this car has only 4.5 inches of clearance. I guess the 4000 mile interval (at least take a sample them maybe not change) is the way to go to see the scavanger effect.
Or, do you guys have any faith in the "sample through the dipstick" method? It seems like you would get a bad sample to me but it might be the only way to do the overkill sampling. I guess I could use a clean pump each time and make sure the oil is good and hot. Would we learn anything from sampling every 1000 miles for the first 4000 miles?
But on my car the oil comes shooting out literally by the gallon so I would lose so much and have to refill it would make subsequent tests worthless. Afraid of the fumoto valve cuz this car has only 4.5 inches of clearance. I guess the 4000 mile interval (at least take a sample them maybe not change) is the way to go to see the scavanger effect.
Or, do you guys have any faith in the "sample through the dipstick" method? It seems like you would get a bad sample to me but it might be the only way to do the overkill sampling. I guess I could use a clean pump each time and make sure the oil is good and hot. Would we learn anything from sampling every 1000 miles for the first 4000 miles?
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Or, do you guys have any faith in the "sample through the dipstick" method? It seems like you would get a bad sample to me but it might be the only way to do the overkill sampling. I guess I could use a clean pump each time and make sure the oil is good and hot. Would we learn anything from sampling every 1000 miles for the first 4000 miles?
I use the dipstick pump method with fresh tubing every time. Run the engine on the highway for 20 minutes, and then take an immediate sample. My samples are always consistent. I've even taken back-to-back samples at 150/200/250 miles on the oil and 250 miles with 40 minutes of idling with consistent and repeatable results.
Or, do you guys have any faith in the "sample through the dipstick" method? It seems like you would get a bad sample to me but it might be the only way to do the overkill sampling. I guess I could use a clean pump each time and make sure the oil is good and hot. Would we learn anything from sampling every 1000 miles for the first 4000 miles?
I use the dipstick pump method with fresh tubing every time. Run the engine on the highway for 20 minutes, and then take an immediate sample. My samples are always consistent. I've even taken back-to-back samples at 150/200/250 miles on the oil and 250 miles with 40 minutes of idling with consistent and repeatable results.
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