I‘m on the fence about buying a new car in this current climate. My current car is a 06 Acura TL with 161K miles. I pretty much had 90% of the oil leaks fixed in the last five months. The seals I replaced were oil pump, spool valve, valve covers, cam plugs, cam seals, crank seal, oil pan. The only item left is the rear main seal which is leaking. The shop that did all the other work charges $1140 for this job. They said it’s a 9-10 hour job. I have read the whole sub frame has to be dropped to remove the transmission from the engine on this car. It’s amazing all this work for a $30 o-ring. $1200 is roughly 2 months of payments on your typical new car these days. If I‘m planning to keep the car, I need to fix this problem. All I read is the Honda J series engines will last 300K no problem, the transmission is another story.
Rear main seal replacement
- Thread starter Finklejag
- Start date
Depends on how much it leaks. My old ML320 had main seal leak, needed to add 1/2 qt every 2,500-3,000 miles, did that for 4 years, no big deal to save $1,200. The ML320 had 235,000 miles when I sold it after 20 years of ownership.
I had the exact same 2006 TL, sold it in the summer of 2020 when it had 110,000 miles. It never developed any leaks at all, just tired of having in for almost 15 years.
I had the exact same 2006 TL, sold it in the summer of 2020 when it had 110,000 miles. It never developed any leaks at all, just tired of having in for almost 15 years.
Have you tried a high mileage oil? Theoretically they swell seals a bit and wouldn't do any harm.
And I'd be tempted to try a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil as well.
And I'd be tempted to try a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil as well.
My 530i has had a rear main seal leak for over 10 years. Not planning on fixing it anytime soon.
On rear main seal leaks I generally start by asking the customer how much oil the car is leaking and how much an oil spot where they park bothers them, The price for the rear seal is fair, If its only using a quart between changes I wouldnt recommend fixing it unless the leak really bothers you or I was in the area for something else.
Is it dripping on the ground or just seeping in that area? I would use 5w30 Valvoline Maxlife red bottle and call it a day. Change around 6mos./5k miles. Probably change pcv valve with an OEM one as well.
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You should feel good you fixed all the other leaks.
I would try using a High Mileage Oil in as thick a viscosity as possible.
Give it some time and see if it helps.
In the meantime, place a Drip Tray underneath it so it can be monitored and won't stain any concrete.
Parking in garage is better so tray won't fill with rainwater.
I would try using a High Mileage Oil in as thick a viscosity as possible.
Give it some time and see if it helps.
In the meantime, place a Drip Tray underneath it so it can be monitored and won't stain any concrete.
Parking in garage is better so tray won't fill with rainwater.
A new OEM PCV valve for my 2007 Accord V6 was quite expensive (about $50 Cdn). I replaced it anyway. Those engines are likely similar.
My civic did not have a rear main seal leak, but it did have the oil pump seal leak, which required removing the timing belt, oil, pan, oil pump. The work was extensive to replace the $1 part. I did decide to do it though, only because I felt like a lowlife rude person. I had taken the car to an Airbnb home, parked it on the driveway. The car left a small oil puddle on my host's driveway. After that, I could not stand to make a mess wherever I took the car. So I fixed it, and no more leaks.
When I had the oil pump resealed, I also had the water pump and timing belt replaced since they had to be remove those parts for the oil pump service. The timing belt was replaced 60,000 miles ago but it was still a no brainer to replace it again.
The rear main seal is attached to a plate on the rear of the engine. The plate has sealant and there is also an o-ring (in addition to the rear main seal) on the upper portion. If you proceed with the job, make sure your shop reseals this plate, replaces the o-ring and replaces the rear main seal. Otherwise you might end up doing it again.
No additive I have ever tried to stop a rear main seal leak has worked. Either live with it and add oil as needed, or bite the bullet and replace the seal.
(Ditto for leaks in cooling systems, too. No additive I have tried worked for that either, and some of those products can plug everything and cause overheating.)
(Ditto for leaks in cooling systems, too. No additive I have tried worked for that either, and some of those products can plug everything and cause overheating.)
I figured since you don't want to repair the leak you might as well try every snake oil additive there is. So, add this one to the list.............
I've had great luck with Bar's for cooling systems but it can clog heater cores
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This worked for me when other products did nothing.
I'm a believer Got it on Amazon
products.liqui-moly.com
I'm a believer Got it on Amazon
Motor Oil Saver
Regenerates engine seals made of rubber and plastic such as shaft sealing rings, valve stem seals and prevents oil patches under the vehicle. Counteracts oil dilution. Reduces engine noise and oil consumption via piston rings and valve guides.
