PP 5W30, 8,213 miles, '01 Grand Prix GT 3800 V6

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WishIhadatruck

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This oil was run from 11/15/12 until 3/14/13. It was 5W-30 PP with a Mobil 1 oil filter. My last UOA was over 2 years ago and since that time I have been changing the oil every 4 months which generally works out to about 7500 miles and nearly the same time my oil change light goes off. This time I drove a bit more than usual which might be my new normal, the light went off 2 weeks before I changed it. It does not show a % for my car.

I drive pretty gentle most of the time.
Wix air filter gets changed every 10k miles.

Blackstone Coments:
Quote:
Lead has improved nicely in this sample. It's still a bit higher than average, but some of this is probably left over from the last oil. You can't ever get all the old oil out with one oil change. If you stay at 8,000-9,000 miles again next time lead might improve a little, but it likely won't get down to average as long as you're running extended oil changes. And that's okay. If lead doesn't bother you where it is, then you can stick with this oil run. If it does bother you then you might drop back to 7,500 miles and see what that gets you. No fuel/coolant found; other wear is low.


I find it a bit funny reading the Blackstone comments. It is as if the person commenting doesn't realize that I didn't do a UOA for over 2 years and nearly 57k miles. It is written as if this UOA and oil change was immediately after the last UOA. Oh well. Still no sign of a return of the intake gasket coolant leak that was repaired in the spring of '08. Hopefully it is gone for good. This was the main reason I did a UOA, just to see if it was leaking at all. Lead is a touch high, but not bad. I don't think I'm going to worry about it, I'll probably keep on doing what I'm doing. 10W-30 PP for the March-July and July-Nov intervals and 5W-30 PP for the Nov-Mar interval.

Code:


OIL PP 5W30 PP 10W30 PP 5W30 PP10W30 PP10W30 PYB10W30 PP5W30 M110W30 M110W30

MILES IN USE 8.2k 11.8k 9.8k 7.4k 5.0k 3.4k 5.1k 5.7k 4.9k Uni Avg

MILES 195.7k 139.0k 127.2k 117.5k 110k 87.1k 80.5k 70.4k 64.8k

SAMPLE TAKEN 3/14/13 10/15/10 4/19/10 11/11/09 6/20/09 6/10/08 2/28/08 9/2/07 7/3/06



ALUMINUM 4 4 3 3 2 2 3 3 2 3

CHROMIUM 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

IRON 11 13 12 9 8 9 24 14 8 13

COPPER 16 27 24 25 19 21 28 39 30 17

LEAD 15 38 15 8 5 9 4 21 19 8

TIN 0 0 3 0 0 2 1 0 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 55 53 54 49 48 3 52 98 83 65

NICKEL 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0

MANGANESE 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

SILVER 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

POTASSIUM 6 2 3 0 2 7 11 1 3 7

BORON 2 29 33 29 36 114 34 47 52 45

SILICON 11 11 12 15 11 29 13 12 12 11

SODIUM 4 1 2 2 2 8 10 5 4 24

CALCIUM 2549 3020 3020 2809 2944 2018 2919 2184 2354 2078

MAGNESIUM 10 13 10 10 10 7 12 11 13 90

PHOSPHORUS 699 676 725 649 639 646 656 538 589 691

ZINC 853 776 907 728 832 784 819 675 745 848

BARIUM 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0





INSOLUBLES 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.3

WATER 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

FLASHPOINT ºF 400 400 390 390 410 400 400 410 420

SUS VIS 210ºF 60.1 60.9 57.1 58.2 59.2 56.6 57.9 58.6 60.8

cSt @ 100ºC 10.26 10.46 9.40 9.70 9.99 9.24 9.63 9.83 10.44

TBN n/a 4.6 3.1 3.4 n/a n/a 3.9 3.7 n/a
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Looking at your previous runs im Curious, why do you chose a 10w-30 synthetic in Michigan winter?


I don't, I always have 5W-30 in the car during Dec-Feb. At times I've run the 5W-30 longer than that. Summer it always has 10W-30 and winter 5W-30. The manual specifies it must have 5W-30 if it will get below 0 deg. F and it must have 10W-30 if it will get above 60 deg. F.
 
Originally Posted By: WishIhadatruck
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Looking at your previous runs im Curious, why do you chose a 10w-30 synthetic in Michigan winter?


I don't, I always have 5W-30 in the car during Dec-Feb. At times I've run the 5W-30 longer than that. Summer it always has 10W-30 and winter 5W-30. The manual specifies it must have 5W-30 if it will get below 0 deg. F and it must have 10W-30 if it will get above 60 deg. F.


I see, maybe i read the previous UOA wrong lol. The 5w-30/10w-30 is based on a conventional oil btw. So its not really a MUST with synthetic.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 97 GTP
Looks good.

Do you have mods? What grade gas you run?


No mods other than new intake gaskets a few years back, ha ha. I run 87 octane.
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Originally Posted By: WishIhadatruck
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Looking at your previous runs im Curious, why do you chose a 10w-30 synthetic in Michigan winter?


I don't, I always have 5W-30 in the car during Dec-Feb. At times I've run the 5W-30 longer than that. Summer it always has 10W-30 and winter 5W-30. The manual specifies it must have 5W-30 if it will get below 0 deg. F and it must have 10W-30 if it will get above 60 deg. F.


I see, maybe i read the previous UOA wrong lol. The 5w-30/10w-30 is based on a conventional oil btw. So its not really a MUST with synthetic.


I think you're correct, the manual doesn't say of course but I'd think 5W-30 or 0W-30 would work year round if synthetic. I did try Syntec 0W-30 (GC) in a my older GP and my wagon, I don't recall if I tried it in this one or not. I don't think I did or it would be in one of the UOA's listed. Maybe I should just switch to 5W-30 and run it year round and change it when the OLM goes off. It seems to be pretty accurate.
 
Do you romp on it? I wouldn't be surprised if those extra few ppm of lead are due to knock. Scan it and check. If so run a higher octane, after all it's just about a wash in price vs mileage.

I'd run a synthetic 5w30 year round. That's what I do.

Off topic: I just did my LIM gaskets a couple of weeks ago before an oil change was due. Now I have to wait another year before I do an analysis for comparison. Did you do the LIM yourself? If not, what did they charge you?
 
No, I don't romp on it too often. Not that I never do but that is not my regular mode of operation. I do mostly highway driving, hard to believe higher octane fuel would give better mpg but I've never tried it.

I had a local indy shop do the LIM gaskets. I don't recall the entire cost but I think it was around $900 total including parts and labor and that included a new upper intake manifold which I replaced as a preventative measure to avoid EGR chimney issues. I bought that myself online and had them install at the same time and that was about $100 or more. It was too long ago to remember for sure without digging up the receipts.
 
Many of these cars knock stock. That's why I mentioned scanning.

Usually with higher octane you'll me able to run a little more timing which negates the added fuel cost but for highway driving I doubt you'll see a difference.
 
Scan it how? I have a Scangauge II and have no codes. Do you mean some method to monitor spark knock?

I do a little more city driving than I used to in addition to the highway driving I always have. I'll be pushing 25k miles per year now I think. Maybe I'll give the higher octane gas a try when the weather gets warmer.
 
Scanners like the HP Tuners suite can log all sorts of different parameters, including knock.

http://www.hptuners.com/products/vcmsuite.php

Side question: How can anyone living in Grand Rapids drive a stock Grand Prix with ZZPerformance in town?

I wouldn't think a stock L36 should see anything other than an occasional blip KR, though, regardless of octane.
 
Originally Posted By: Coogles
Scanners like the HP Tuners suite can log all sorts of different parameters, including knock.

http://www.hptuners.com/products/vcmsuite.php

Side question: How can anyone living in Grand Rapids drive a stock Grand Prix with ZZPerformance in town?

I wouldn't think a stock L36 should see anything other than an occasional blip KR, though, regardless of octane.


No engine mods, but I did buy a brake upgrade kit from ZZPerformance the last time I needed a brake job. I also bought a shift kit from them online and had it shipped a few years ago. When I opened the package I saw the address and realized they were a short drive away and I could have saved the shipping. I had not paid much attention to them previously.
 
Originally Posted By: 97 GTP
Many of these cars knock stock. That's why I mentioned scanning.


Yes, scan with a data logger. I had an issue running slightly lean about 50k miles ago, maybe more. Eventually the vacuum leak became large enough to occasionally set a lean code and once that was resolved my lead numbers came down.

Quote:
I wouldn't think a stock L36 should see anything other than an occasional blip KR, though, regardless of octane.


Some more that others.
 
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