I'm a big fan of the Collinite 845, not a detailing fanatic just like my paint to be protected and look nice. With my silver 2012 Elantra I want to know if there is a way to get more pizazz out of the color? Maybe it's more of a mirror effect I want. Just want to try something with the Collinite to see if I can get more dazzle. Any suggestions?
polish to use with Collinite 845 Silver Elantra
- Thread starter schuylkill
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You might get a little more reflection with a wax like P21S 100% Carnauba but will sacrifice some durability over the Collinite. Generally paint sealants aren't known for the same outright shine that good wax blends have perhaps with Menzerna Power Lock being an exception from what I've read. I think the best thing you can do is keep it washed (by hand) and refresh your coat of wax every few months.
Using a mild clay before paint sealant should help. Clay will remove any contaminants from the surface, and usually, smoothness = gloss.
Clay will only give the wax a better surface to adhere to. It will not do much to improve gloss unless the paint is heavily contaminated.
You could try a mild polish like Meguiar's ColorX or M205 (both work by hand but work best with a machine). Both will cut through any oxidation and improve the clearcoat a bit.
You could try a mild polish like Meguiar's ColorX or M205 (both work by hand but work best with a machine). Both will cut through any oxidation and improve the clearcoat a bit.
Clay should go without saying, no?
I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
Originally Posted By: gofast182
I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
The new Meguiar's formulations I mentioned actually do work quite well by hand and won't cause more problems, but a machine is always preferable.
I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
The new Meguiar's formulations I mentioned actually do work quite well by hand and won't cause more problems, but a machine is always preferable.
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I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
The new Meguiar's formulations I mentioned actually do work quite well by hand and won't cause more problems, but a machine is always preferable.
I have a DA machine, need to get some new pads though. I bought it to remove some light scrapes I picked up on one of my highway warrior commutes when the top skin blew off of a box truck and I couldn't quite judge where it was coming down and I ran over it. The edge swiped my front bumper and driver's door. Mostly it cleaned up nicely.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd advise against using any polish by hand. Odds are you'll introduce more swirls than you take away. Humans simply don't have the speed and motion to properly break down the polishing medium.
The new Meguiar's formulations I mentioned actually do work quite well by hand and won't cause more problems, but a machine is always preferable.
I have a DA machine, need to get some new pads though. I bought it to remove some light scrapes I picked up on one of my highway warrior commutes when the top skin blew off of a box truck and I couldn't quite judge where it was coming down and I ran over it. The edge swiped my front bumper and driver's door. Mostly it cleaned up nicely.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Zaino!
Wash, clay, Collinite. 24 hours after the #845 haze has been removed (assuming the car is still clean) spray on and wipe off Duragloss Aquawax. Over the next several hours you'll see the car shine with an increasing depth and glow. It will pop as good as silver can get by the next day. Use the Aquawax once a month to keep it sharp. It can be used on a wet (just washed) or dry (but clean) car. Paint, glass, chrome, black plastic, alloys, textured plastic, etc. Tires? No. Use it just once and you'll purchase by the gallon from then on. Oh, it smells nice to boot which makes it a pleasure to use.
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Duragloss Aquawax
This looks interesting. Do you recommend a wash to use along with this?
Duragloss Aquawax
This looks interesting. Do you recommend a wash to use along with this?
Originally Posted By: dparm
Clay will only give the wax a better surface to adhere to. It will not do much to improve gloss unless the paint is heavily contaminated.
From my experience, every finish that I’ve worked on has seen a noticeable improvement in gloss after a clay treatment. A 2012MY car is more than a year old at this point, and if it has not been clayed before, it has probably accumulated a significant amount of contaminants.
Since you already have a DA, if you want to spend more time on the car, you can try doing a 1-step polish using M205 and a Uber green or Buff & Shine green polishing pad. M205 has a surprising amount of cut for a finishing polish and finishes acceptably on just about every paint system.
But I think you’ll be quite satisfied with the improvement from using clay (or nanoskin) alone.
Also, for a spray wax or topper, I think it’ll be hard to find anything better than CarPro Hydr02, but it is much more expensive that Aquawax.
Clay will only give the wax a better surface to adhere to. It will not do much to improve gloss unless the paint is heavily contaminated.
From my experience, every finish that I’ve worked on has seen a noticeable improvement in gloss after a clay treatment. A 2012MY car is more than a year old at this point, and if it has not been clayed before, it has probably accumulated a significant amount of contaminants.
Since you already have a DA, if you want to spend more time on the car, you can try doing a 1-step polish using M205 and a Uber green or Buff & Shine green polishing pad. M205 has a surprising amount of cut for a finishing polish and finishes acceptably on just about every paint system.
But I think you’ll be quite satisfied with the improvement from using clay (or nanoskin) alone.
Also, for a spray wax or topper, I think it’ll be hard to find anything better than CarPro Hydr02, but it is much more expensive that Aquawax.
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That's a good point Critic makes. If you want to see what just an Autoscrub pad and 845 can do on a silver finish check out my '11 TSX detail thread. You can see a change before and after. I suspect the Acura silver is different but you'll still get the idea.
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A 2012MY car is more than a year old at this point, and if it has not been clayed before, it has probably accumulated a significant amount of contaminants.
I bought the car in June 2011 (manufactured in Alabama in May 2011 so I got it "fresh") and it now has 96K on it, like I said a highway warrior. I will clay it in the spring, no garage as of yet but I am dreaming of having one.
A 2012MY car is more than a year old at this point, and if it has not been clayed before, it has probably accumulated a significant amount of contaminants.
I bought the car in June 2011 (manufactured in Alabama in May 2011 so I got it "fresh") and it now has 96K on it, like I said a highway warrior. I will clay it in the spring, no garage as of yet but I am dreaming of having one.
Took advantage of the warm spell here and washed and Duraglossed the elantra yesterday. Rain today so I can't fully admire the shine but it is a much glassier look and it's what I was looking for. Thanks for the tip! I did the front windshield and I'm hoping I'm glad I did when I drive in with the rain in the morning.
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I did the front windshield and I'm hoping I'm glad I did when I drive in with the rain in the morning.
So as far as repelling rain, the drops don't roll off like with Rain-x but rather seem to bounce off and just leave very small drops. It's almost like it's only spritzing rather than
a steady rain. The glass also seems to stay cleaner than without the coating. I still need to see how it holds up but so far I like it on the windshield.
I did the front windshield and I'm hoping I'm glad I did when I drive in with the rain in the morning.
So as far as repelling rain, the drops don't roll off like with Rain-x but rather seem to bounce off and just leave very small drops. It's almost like it's only spritzing rather than
a steady rain. The glass also seems to stay cleaner than without the coating. I still need to see how it holds up but so far I like it on the windshield.
You will want to deep-clean the paint and remove oxidation/contaminants with something like clay, NanoScrub, etc. That will add a bit of depth, but much of it is limited to the paint process and the complexity of the metal flake arrangement.
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