Please help: Car sounds like a WRX + Rumbles
- Thread starter Spetz
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Originally Posted By: Spetz
Merkava, I checked and the leads are in the correct order
Either your leads are mixed up or you have a cylinder not firing.
Make sure you know which direction the distributor is rotating when you check the firing order.
Merkava, I checked and the leads are in the correct order
Either your leads are mixed up or you have a cylinder not firing.
Make sure you know which direction the distributor is rotating when you check the firing order.
After lossening the two nuts or bolts that hold the distribotr to the head, you turn the distributor a bit to adjust the timing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGzxCCaxDjI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGzxCCaxDjI
The distributor has 1 - 6 numbered on it, and before taking it off I traced the leads (and checked online) to cylinder numbers. They are connected correctly.
Additionally I think ignition timing is not adjustable on the car as it does not have a knock sensor.
I think the only error I could have made in timing is incorrectly installing the rotor, but the plug is a triangle meaning the error would be 120 degrees. With 120 degrees out I wouldn't think the engine would start at all. Either way I shall check it all today.
Additionally I think ignition timing is not adjustable on the car as it does not have a knock sensor.
I think the only error I could have made in timing is incorrectly installing the rotor, but the plug is a triangle meaning the error would be 120 degrees. With 120 degrees out I wouldn't think the engine would start at all. Either way I shall check it all today.
I checked the camshaft timing to distributor ignition timing and it was correct, as are the leads.
The one issue though that I think may be the cause of all this is the crank mark to cam timing. I think the belt may have skipped a tooth.
Pics below of someone could tell me for sure:
The one issue though that I think may be the cause of all this is the crank mark to cam timing. I think the belt may have skipped a tooth.
Pics below of someone could tell me for sure:
If it skipped a tooth, it would be 360/24 = 15 degrees off, as there are 24 teeth. It appears only about 5 degrees off (as much as I can tell from the photo with the parallax). It's not ideal but you can probably live with that.
Play around with your ignition timing by loosening the bolt (but do not remove the bolt) and turning the distributor left and right to see what happens to the way the engine runs. You can do that while the engine is running.
Play around with your ignition timing by loosening the bolt (but do not remove the bolt) and turning the distributor left and right to see what happens to the way the engine runs. You can do that while the engine is running.
Ok, so yes it turns out the timing is not really much off since once I set the crank to 0 degrees the cams were a negligible amount off.
What I did figure out though was the there is no spark for cylinder 4.
Disconnecting injector makes no difference, and removing the lead also makes no difference.
I put the lead on the intake manifold (right up to it) and there was no arcing at all.
I added new:
Distributor cap
Rotor
Leads
I assume that the cap and rotor MUST be fine if the other cylinders are firing?
Must be the lead that is faulty?
I wish I hadn't thrown my old leads out... I can test with a multimeter though?
These were genuine Mitsubishi leads mind you
What I did figure out though was the there is no spark for cylinder 4.
Disconnecting injector makes no difference, and removing the lead also makes no difference.
I put the lead on the intake manifold (right up to it) and there was no arcing at all.
I added new:
Distributor cap
Rotor
Leads
I assume that the cap and rotor MUST be fine if the other cylinders are firing?
Must be the lead that is faulty?
I wish I hadn't thrown my old leads out... I can test with a multimeter though?
These were genuine Mitsubishi leads mind you
Like i said new parts can be defective, i get a few defective parts OE or not.
While it is unlikely it does happen.
I almost tore into a transfer case but my better judgement told me it had to be a bad shift motor.
2X OE new motors later and i got a good one, end of problem. Still fine 6 yrs later.
Test the ohms against one of similar length from the other side.
While it is unlikely it does happen.
I almost tore into a transfer case but my better judgement told me it had to be a bad shift motor.
2X OE new motors later and i got a good one, end of problem. Still fine 6 yrs later.
Test the ohms against one of similar length from the other side.
If there is no spark, it would be the cap, wire, or the spark plug. It should probably be trivial to figure out and fix. As someone else said, connect a spark plug to the wire and touch the ground of the spark plug to the chassis to see if there is spark.
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