Piecing together a dual remote bypass setup...

[chevrofreak]

The top of the mount was cut off with a 4-1/2" angle grinder to make it nice and straight, and it was attached to the firewall using stainless steel 1/4" hex bolts on top of stainless washers, and on the back side of the firewall there is a 1-1/4" fender washer on each bolt, with a stainless steel lock washer and stainless steel nut. If I could have found stainless steel fender washers at Home Depot, I would have used them...

The mount is solid with very little flexing of the firewall. There is plenty of clearance to unscrew each filter for individual replacement. The hose is just on there to keep dirt out until I can complete the installation.

There isn't quite enough room under the engine cover to run the hoses, so they may run along the edge of the cover next to the air box, then down to the mount. If I can plumb in some hard line, I might go under the cover, then add about a foot to foot and a half of rubber hose for flex.

 

[Texan4Life]

Thanks for keeping us posted. Great pics!

Glad you were able to come up a simple good looking mounting solution.

I"m not sure about the tubing. I would see if I could buy some more hose. maybe some 1/2" trans oil cooler hose. not sure

Where is the filter adapter located? more toward the firewall or the radiator? If it is closer to the firewall I would keep your hose routing like you have in the picture for the shortest route. Going under the engine cover would be nice, but I would start to worry about the possibility of pressure drop.

yeah I big 180 loop takes up alot of room. I would see about getting some fittigs to try and find a way around that.

maybe two 3/8" npt (3/8npt is 1/2" ID actual) 90 degree pipe elbow and a straight hose barb. or a 90 pipe elbow and a 90 degree hose barb.

 

[chevrofreak]

The filter mount is between the engine and radiator. It used to have a cartridge filter, but I converted it to spin on. It sits pretty low on the engine. I am going to buy a Moroso or Canton racing products 90 degree adapter to eliminate the 180 loop. That should cut a foot of hose out of each side of the system.

I was thinking about buying a roll of steel braided hose and then using AN fittings, but by then I would have as much money in it as buying the Amsoil system would have cost...

 

[chevrofreak]

I've actually bought 3 different pipe fitting and hose barb setups trying to make it come out at 90 degrees and none of it worked. I will hopefully have more luck with the new adapter.

 

[jetman]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak

3/4-16 to 1-16 nipple

Where can we get the 3/4-16 to 1-16 adapter nipple????
Thanks

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The filter mount is between the engine and radiator. It used to have a cartridge filter, but I converted it to spin on. It sits pretty low on the engine. I am going to buy a Moroso or Canton racing products 90 degree adapter to eliminate the 180 loop. That should cut a foot of hose out of each side of the system.

I was thinking about buying a roll of steel braided hose and then using AN fittings, but by then I would have as much money in it as buying the Amsoil system would have cost...


yeah when I added my coolant filter setup, I was looking at using braided hose and AN fittings for a nice clean setup. After adding up the cost I decided hose and hose barbs would work just fine. After I was done (of course) I had the thought of maybe trying to paint the hose clamps black to help them blend in.

I also covered the hose with the plastic wire loom stuff. it made the hoses look more factory IMO, plus eliminated any potential rubbing problems... Home depot and rockauto has it.

Since your filter adapter would be close to the front of the car. I can see going under the engine cover. That would look good if possible.

Here is was I mean by using the wire loom stuff:

http://i48.tinypic.com/28wl9mu.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/fnvjfp.jpg

just throwing out some ideas.

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: jetman
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak

3/4-16 to 1-16 nipple

Where can we get the 3/4-16 to 1-16 adapter nipple????
Thanks


http://www.ebay.com/itm/360437771218?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The filter mount is between the engine and radiator. It used to have a cartridge filter, but I converted it to spin on. It sits pretty low on the engine. I am going to buy a Moroso or Canton racing products 90 degree adapter to eliminate the 180 loop. That should cut a foot of hose out of each side of the system.

I was thinking about buying a roll of steel braided hose and then using AN fittings, but by then I would have as much money in it as buying the Amsoil system would have cost...


yeah when I added my coolant filter setup, I was looking at using braided hose and AN fittings for a nice clean setup. After adding up the cost I decided hose and hose barbs would work just fine. After I was done (of course) I had the thought of maybe trying to paint the hose clamps black to help them blend in.

I also covered the hose with the plastic wire loom stuff. it made the hoses look more factory IMO, plus eliminated any potential rubbing problems... Home depot and rockauto has it.

Since your filter adapter would be close to the front of the car. I can see going under the engine cover. That would look good if possible.

Here is was I mean by using the wire loom stuff:

http://i48.tinypic.com/28wl9mu.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/fnvjfp.jpg

just throwing out some ideas.



Right now I am looking at hydraulic hose, which isn't allll that high priced. I might step up to 5/8" just because I don't like how small the ID of the 1/2" hose barbs is. I tried stuffing a 5/8" one in, and it just wont go.

 

[chevrofreak]

I decided that it was going to be too much of a pain and expense to buy the correct size tap, plug and then drill it out. My solution cost me $.98

I measured the inside diameter of the nipple adapter, which came out at .556" From my previous experience with other projects, I knew that a good steel freeze plug would seal tightly and are nearly impossible to back out of a hole once installed. I found that the Dorman 555-008 .563" steel freeze plugs were available at O'reilly for 49 cents each. I purchased two of them for this project, because I intended to drive one in from each end of the nipple, to make it all but impossible to have one of them come out under pressure.

Once the first plug was driven in, I drilled a hole in it to make it easier to seat the second one because I would not be compressing the air into a nearly non-existent gap between the two plugs. I decided to go with a 1/8" restrictor hole for this project because I want the bypass filter to actually do some work. With this being a parallel flow setup and no biasing valve to speak of, the main purpose of the restrictor (in my mind) is to ensure that when the full-flow filter starts to load, it does not try to send too much flow through the bypass filter.

This is the end result.

You can see that the plugs are installed from each end, and that there are some ridges on the inside surface of the nipple, which should eliminate any chance of the plugs backing out.

The nipple was cleaned up and reinstalled, and the filter was reinstalled. Removing the filter, the nipple unscrewed from the mount, because with the restrictor I was unable to tighten it using my previous method (one side of the jaws of a pair of tin snips firmly pressed into the nipple so it would bite in, and could be tightened firmly). The new solution was a #12 plumbing O-ring slipped over the nipple, then tightened into place using Vise Grips and a piece of leather to prevent from damaging the 1" threads.

I measured the hoses I had left to see if they would be enough. Luckily, they are. The Canton Racing Products 90 degree mount is going to make it far simpler to install, and using less hose.

I routed the hoses, even though I do not have the filter adapter or 90 degree elbows that I will install between the hose and adapter. I may even go a different route, as I have found some inexpensive hydraulic hoses (made by Yokohama apparently) with 1/2" 90 degree elbows on one end, that are pretty much exactly the length that I need.

 

[Ken2]

Chevro, what will force the oil through the high resistance bypass filter? In single service, the bypass filter dumps back to the sump, zero back pressure. Pulling some numbers out of the air, let's say that your engine is putting out 60 psi oil pressure, the oil is hot, and the outlet of the full flow filter is, say, 59 psi. Will the bypass filter have any flow with this one psi difference between its inlet and its outlet. I don't think so. The Amsoil dual mount puts a restriction between the outlet of the full flow filter and the line to the engine. This is what allows enough pressure differential to force oil through the bypass element. If you get hooked up and your bypass can doesn't get hot, you know it has no flow and isn't filtering.

 

[chevrofreak]

Fluids will take all paths of travel, not just the one of least resistance. The Amsoil EaBP filters are quite low resistance filters compared to other bypass filters, which is why they are used on the Top Dog V bypass system, which also has no biasing spring or valve in it. I have no doubt that I am going to see flow through it, though it may not be as much as a real Amsoil kit.

 

[Texan4Life]

looking good!

The way I have made sure I have plumbed coolant filters properly is if they heat up.

So as long and your bypass filter warms up with the full flow I would say the oil is flowing.

also makes a nice hand warmer.

 

[chevrofreak]

I bought some -10 AN braided stainless hoses, 90 degree fittings and 1/2" NPT to -10 AN straight fittings tonight..... Total for this project is somewhere around $275. If I had just bought the Amsoil kit, including the preferred membership, I would have only been into it for $307. I wanted to see if this could be done, with quality parts, for significantly less than the Amsoil kit would cost. I have found my answer. No. Even if it was, the hassle of having to source so many parts isn't worth it.

Wish I wasn't such a cheapass.

 

[chevrofreak]

So I got all of my parts in.... What a pain in the butt to install. Just not enough room to really connect everything under there, but I got it done.

I think we all underestimated how much flow the bypass filter would actually have; even me. The bypass filter gets almost as hot as the primary filter, and I can feel the flow of oil pulsing through it just the same as the full-flow, but to a lesser extent.

 

[chevrofreak]

BTW, when I first started it and drove it, there was a very loud and annoying buzzing sound that the filter mount was passing through the firewall. I don't know if it was from the thick oil (possibly a bypass valve opening and closing with the pulses of oil) or if it was from air in the system, but it went away completely once the engine was warmed up. The engine also feels more free-revving than it did before with the stock cartridge filter, or even the FL-1A and PL30001 that were on it previously.

I will report back whether the buzzing continues on cold starts.

 

[sprocketser]

Put some thicker rubber gasket , it will help with sound dampenings .

 

[chevrofreak]

I may have to do that. It seems to do it every time I start it after it has been sitting for a while.

I only had 2 small leaks to fix. The plugs that go in the other side of the filter head weren't tight enough because I used that 9mm bolt head and vise grips to tighten them. I had to buy a new pair of 12" slip-jaw pliers today to tighten the Canton filter mount because my adjustable jaw wrench was slightly too small. The 3 gripping areas on the jaws came in handy; the one nearest the hinge gripped that bolt solid, and it didn't slip when I used it to tighten the plugs this time. Very nice pliers for a current sale price of $8.99

 

[sprocketser]

Keep it on .

 

[Texan4Life]

looks great... how did you like working with the braided hose and AN fittings?

 

[chevrofreak]

The AN fittings were actually a pain in the butt. They didn't want to turn overly easily, and the braided hose was very stiff. I had to loosen the red 90 degree elbows several times to get the correct orientation. They may just be some cheapass fittings or something. I bought the hoses fully assembled from eBay, which made things easier and more difficult at the same time.