Permatex Super Hi Tack Gasket Sealent to tack trans cork gasket?

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I just finished my trans service. I used Permatex Super High Tack Gasket Sealant to tack the cork gasket to the pan before I bolted the pan up to the trans.

Is this stuff OK for this use? When will it dry and how long do I have to wait until I can refill the trans?

Thanks!
 
the cork gasket will squish out?

will the pan be real hard (PITA) to get off again?

I didnt fubar it did i?
 
If you just glued the gasket to the pan it should be fine. The point is to avoid scraping the aluminum trans sealing surface. Scraping gasket off the steel pan is o.k.

Some pan gaskets have 4 bolt holes that are a snug fit . Those bolts to hold the gasket in place while you start them--and then the pan is on with all holes lined up.

I think mechtech's warning was to not overtighten, or the gasket will squish out. Torque spec for my GM 4L60E is 97 in-lbs.
 
I was always told not to use Permatex on auto trans pan gaskets. Specifically, Form-A-Gasket No.1 and No.2.

I think Hi-Tack is different stuff so you might be okay.

I either use nothing or wheel bearing grease for roller bearings (non-disc brakes type).
 
I screwed up and put the gasket sealant on the pan and trans side of the cork gasket.

I may not change that filter for a long, long time.

The trans has survived 166k miles on the orig filter and fluid. I may now need to get by on just fluid changed via the new drain plug I installed.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Islandvic:
I screwed up and put the gasket sealant on the pan and trans side of the cork gasket.

I may not change that filter for a long, long time.

The trans has survived 166k miles on the orig filter and fluid. I may now need to get by on just fluid changed via the new drain plug I installed.


I think you'll be fine. When it comes time to drop the pan again, just don't scrape the old gasket off the trans case with a gasket scraper.
 
Islandvik - You didn't do anything wrong. It's just a little harder to clean off next time.
Not having leaks is the #1 proirity.
 
I'm a little late, but I always put trans pan gaskets on dry whether they're cork or rubber/plastic. No need for sealer or RTV or any other junk down there. Just make sure the pan rails and tranny surfaces are clean/dry and put it together. Snug, not strong arm the bolts down in a criss cross pattern and call it good.
 
quote:

I used Permatex Super High Tack Gasket Sealant . . .
Is this stuff OK for this use?

There shouldn't be any problem. That's a common use for High Tack.

Here's a different technique which I learned from someone smarter than me: use big paper clips.

Line up the holes in the cork gasket with the bolt holes in the tranny pan. Hold the gasket in place with big paper clips. Then install the pan and gasket by inserting the bolts, and tightening hand tight. Then pull out the paper clips and torque to spec. I've used this technique to install cork gaskets dry.

Never had a leak. Spotlessly clean mating surfaces, and proper torque seems to be the key.
 
Dont use any gasket sealer on cork/fiber gaskets.

Its NOT necessary and just makes the next change more painful and likely you'll damage the sealing surface during clean-up.

The proper way is to clean both surfaces well and be sure to check the pan for flatness on the sealing edge. If you use a quality gasket and have two flat clean surfaces and proper torque, you're set.

I hate seeing pan gaskets with sealer, glue, etc.

DH
 
In the for-what-it's-worth category, I've held problem gaskets in place with fine sewing thread through each bolt hole to secure the gasket. Just leave the thread in the holes, it won't hurt anything.
 
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