Pentastar 3.6 oil cooler failure. What really causes or exacerbates it?

[jkasch]

A lot of the Dorman reviews on Amazon say to use Mopar seals.

 

[Alex_V]

We did not lose ability. It is the chase for short-term profits. Once the organization starts chasing that, it is downhill from there until the bottom is hit pretty hard.

Thank you. In the case of just generally poorly-made things (not just a bad batch, etc.) the blame lies on the company designing the product and dictating the specs and quality, not the company in another country contracted to make it.

 

[edyvw]

Thank you. In the case of just generally poorly-made things (not just a bad batch, etc.) the blame lies on the company designing the product and dictating the specs and quality, not the company in another country contracted to make it.

Yep.
But, when Dorman is upgrade, I really don’t want to know about rest of the stuff on that vehicle.

 

[Alex_V]

Yep.
But, when Dorman is upgrade, I really don’t want to know about rest of the stuff on that vehicle.

AFAIK there's no OE upgraded part for the lifters that will almost certainly tick by 150K. No OE revised part for GM 6Lx0 torque converters that burn the TC clutch out in as little as 60-70K miles or AFM lifters that just, stick in their compressed position and require disassembly of the whole top end to rectify. If sales of these models dropped significantly once these issues became known trends, you bet they'd have a revised part on the assembly line ASAP.

 

[4WD]

It took 24 posts for a Pentastar thread to become a GM thread - that must be the longest ever ...

 

[4WD]

A lot of the Dorman reviews on Amazon say to use Mopar seals.

Probably what I will do when the time comes ...

 

[demarpaint]

Probably what I will do when the time comes ...

Let me fix it for you, "if" the time comes.

 

[PWMDMD]

The Made in Malaysia units are higher quality. It's like we almost completely lost our ability to manufacture basic cast aluminum products. I returned several Dormant units that were made in USA because of poor casting and machining.

I have an aluminum Dorman oil filter housing and an aluminum OEM Toyota oil filter housing. The Dorman is made in the USA and it is clearly not made/finished as well with flash all over the place.

 

[4WD]

Let me fix it for you, "if" the time comes.

Wish I really knew if oil/filter changes add to the problem or not ...
If so, I might consider the Baxter plus a remote filter with a heat sink around it ...

 

[KrisZ]

Wish I really knew if oil/filter changes add to the problem or not ...
If so, I might consider the Baxter plus a remote filter with a heat sink around it ...

I don’t think it has anything to do with the oil or filter. I’ve been using 5w30 instead of 5w20 in my Grand Caravan since the first OCI and two rockers still failed despite thicker oil.

 

[demarpaint]

Wish I really knew if oil/filter changes add to the problem or not ...
If so, I might consider the Baxter plus a remote filter with a heat sink around it ...

I "think" over tightening the cap, and the added force needed to remove the over tightened filter cap can take its toll over a long period of time. Regarding the units that leak in a short time my bet is they were grossly over tightened. I also "think" the Baxter unit is a good idea, but the added weight of the unit, plus the filter filled with oil will cause problems over time. From what I understand the OE assembly has been revised, "if" mine should fail I'd probably use OE again. I have my doubts about the Dorman unit. Regarding start up ticking, I don't hear any ticking on a cold start unless I haven't driven my Jeep in a few weeks, and then if it ticks it is for a second or two. If I remember when my Jeep sits for a long time I use the clear flood mode before starting it. When I see 1-2 psi of oil pressure I start the engine and there are no ticks or taps.

 

[4WD]

I don’t think it has anything to do with the oil or filter. I’ve been using 5w30 instead of 5w20 in my Grand Caravan since the first OCI and two rockers still failed despite thicker oil.

I just meant the act of changing them - primarily the stresses on the filter/cooler unit ...

 

[4WD]

I "think" over tightening the cap, and the added force needed to remove the over tightened filter cap can take its toll over a long period of time. Regarding the units that leak in a short time my bet is they were grossly over tightened. I also "think" the Baxter unit is a good idea, but the added weight of the unit, plus the filter filled with oil will cause problems over time. From what I understand the OE assembly has been revised, "if" mine should fail I'd probably use OE again. I have my doubts about the Dorman unit. Regarding start up ticking, I don't hear any ticking on a cold start unless I haven't driven my Jeep in a few weeks, and then if it ticks it is for a second or two. If I remember when my Jeep sits for a long time I use the clear flood mode before starting it. When I see 1-2 psi of oil pressure I start the engine and there are no ticks or taps.

I would only use the adapter to a remote filter - upside down (base down) filters are a non-starter with me ...
(so that you never even touch it again) ...
They sell that part separate - their base is overpriced so would look at Derale maybe ...

 

[demarpaint]

I would only use the adapter to a remote filter - upside down (base down) filters are a non-starter with me ...
(so that you never even touch it again) ...
They sell that part separate - their base is overpriced so would look at Derale maybe ...

Interesting, I'd have to see a picture of the setup.

 

[4WD]

Interesting, I'd have to see a picture of the setup.

Just this part - some braided hose - base plus FE10575 filter common with other vehicles

 

[demarpaint]

Just this part - some braided hose - base plus FE10575 filter common with other vehicles

View attachment 218660

Thanks, if you do it let me know how it goes. You don't think the weight of it along with vibration, and the hoses going to the remote filter could cause issues with the O-rings at the base of the OE filter housing? It goes into the OE housing and replaces the filter and screw on cap. Or an I visualizing it wrong?

 

[4WD]

Thanks, if you do it let me know how it goes. You don't think the weight of it along with vibration, and the hoses going to the remote filter could cause issues with the O-rings at the base of the OE filter housing? It goes into the OE housing and replaces the filter and screw on cap. Or an I visualizing it wrong?

It's 2 lbs - would assume much of that inside and tagging the top. Might need to look for lighter more flexible hose.
This should likely wait until powertrain warranty is done. I have just over a year on that.

 

[Invisible]

Wish I really knew if oil/filter changes add to the problem or not ...
If so, I might consider the Baxter plus a remote filter with a heat sink around it ...

I've found that the issue isn't really about over-torquing during filter changes. In fact, setting the filter cap to about 16-17 ft-lb is usually sufficient; there's no need to max out at 18 ft-lb. The real problem lies with the plastic oil filter housing supplied for these vehicles. It's simply not well-designed or well-made. I experienced a failure myself with a brand new Jeep at just 6000 miles. One evening, I noticed a smell of burnt coolant while driving. Despite using dye and a black light, I couldn’t locate the leak. However, after warming up the engine and literally sniffing around the center of the engine compartment, I pinpointed the source. I ended up replacing the faulty housing with a Dorman aluminum unit made in Malaysia, and since then, I’ve had no issues with smells, leaks, or anything else. Now, I make sure to tighten the oil filler cap to 17 ft-lb with each oil change and use Mopar gaskets for the housing.

As for the Baxter plus, it seems like it's a solution looking for a problem. I’ve looked into it too. Perhaps the version with the filter relocation kit might be useful, but I would avoid the model with the filter on top. It's quite heavy and could potentially introduce more issues. Also, the argument about preventing "dry starts" doesn't hold much water for me. Unless your engine sits idle for weeks, you're unlikely to hear any lifter clatter. Even with a Baxter unit, lifters can still bleed down over time.

 

[KrisZ]

I just meant the act of changing them - primarily the stresses on the filter/cooler unit ...

It probably does. It’s a poor design because tightening the filter puts a twisting force to the entire housing which seats on a flat, machined deck. As the seals age and lose their elasticity, they cannot deal with that twisting motion and eventually leak.

 

[demarpaint]

As for the Baxter plus, it seems like it's a solution looking for a problem. I’ve looked into it too. Perhaps the version with the filter relocation kit might be useful, but I would avoid the model with the filter on top. It's quite heavy and could potentially introduce more issues. Also, the argument about preventing "dry starts" doesn't hold much water for me. Unless your engine sits idle for weeks, you're unlikely to hear any lifter clatter. Even with a Baxter unit, lifters can still bleed down over time.

I agree.