I would run an Xw-30 or Xw-40 in a turbo engine.Hi, long time lurker looking for some advice.
Going to go in for my first oil change really soon on my 2020 Infiniti Q50 Red Sport which is a turbo direct injection at 1K miles and planning on a OCI of 4-5K miles. This is my first turboed and first direct injection car so wanted to make sure to use the right oil to minimize the carbon deposits on the valves. I will be doing the Blackstone oil analysis at every change to monitor the engine, something I have never don before.
My driving habits are usually short
I was looking at using Valvoline Modern Engine 0W-20 (viscosity recommended by manufacture and they do not provide an alternative weight). Valvoline is stating that they will be discontinuing this oil and there will be a replacement but have not announced what.
Any thoughts on the Valvoline Modern Engine oil? Is there a better alternative?
I keep my cars until the wheels fall off so trying to pick the best oil that I can.
You're a lubricant manufacturer and you're telling us that it's due to tighter "tolerances" and the oil molecules need to get into the tight spaces?Lubricant manufacturer here. Normally the choice between 0W20 and 5W30 would depend on climate where in hotter climate, use 5W30, colder climate use 0W20 blah blah.. However another point to note is the engine manufacturers' method of meeting modern day requirements of fuel economy/efficiencies (FE).
Japanese FE technology on the other hand, is mainly through making everything more compact, reducing the car's weight and modifying the engine in some way (making it smaller, remodelling it etc.). Essentially, this means that the internals of the engine might have tighter tolerances (less spaces for oil to flow) and that is why they are recommending the thinner 0W20 (as compared to 5W30) oil to make sure that the oil gets into the tight spaces they need to get into, to protect your engine.
On the Mobil ESP X2, it is green due to a specific additive booster that needs to be added for the VW 508/509 specification. VW 508/509 is not backward compatible with other VW grades so I guess main purpose is so workshops/dealers do not accidentally pour the wrong oil into engines. So if you don't need the VW 508/509 spec, just go for other oils, no point spending more money on something you don't require.
Someone made a new troll account it seems.You're a lubricant manufacturer and you're telling us that it's due to tighter "tolerances" and the oil molecules need to get into the tight spaces?
Okay...
mfg will do anything what will decrease emission footprint. thin eco oil is one of them.Kia Stinger here and 5W30 is recommended.
True, by the way multigrade oils are required to be graded, but for many of us, winter performanceIf a 10W rated oil “beats a lot of” 5W rated oils at winter performance then it would be labeled as a 5W oil. It’s not about “flow” when it comes to cranking and pumpability.
On the Mobil ESP X2, it is green due to a specific additive booster that needs to be added for the VW 508/509 specification. VW 508/509 is not backward compatible with other VW grades so I guess main purpose is so workshops/dealers do not accidentally pour the wrong oil into engines. So if you don't need the VW 508/509 spec, just go for other oils, no point spending more money on something you don't require.
From what I can find, ESP x2 appears to be really tuned for fuel economy and only has an HTHS of 2.6, while mobil 1 EP 0w20 has an HTHS of 2.7, and it appears mobil1 EP is already low ash at 0.8% so I'm not sure what benefit if any there is to using ESP X2 over EP if you don't own a Euro car that requires the specs it carries for warranty purposes.While true about the reasoning for the greenish dye, the intention to suggest M1 ESP x2, as far as I understood it, was not to pour it into an older VW engine, which 502 00 or 504 00 is recommended for, but to use it instead of a less advanced 0W-20 as ESP x2 provide higher HTHS and thus is supposed to deliver somewhat superior protection compared to the majority of 0W-20 PCMOs. If I would want to run a 0W-20, I too would most likely consider M1 ESP x2.
I will not comment on 'tolerances'. Nuff said by kschachn....
Dealership bulk oil and dealership filters will do just fine. Just change it a little earlyHi, long time lurker looking for some advice.
Going to go in for my first oil change really soon on my 2020 Infiniti Q50 Red Sport which is a turbo direct injection at 1K miles and planning on a OCI of 4-5K miles. This is my first turboed and first direct injection car so wanted to make sure to use the right oil to minimize the carbon deposits on the valves. I will be doing the Blackstone oil analysis at every change to monitor the engine, something I have never don before.
My driving habits are usually short
I was looking at using Valvoline Modern Engine 0W-20 (viscosity recommended by manufacture and they do not provide an alternative weight). Valvoline is stating that they will be discontinuing this oil and there will be a replacement but have not announced what.
Any thoughts on the Valvoline Modern Engine oil? Is there a better alternative?
I keep my cars until the wheels fall off so trying to pick the best oil that I can.
It’s been almost two years since the OP. I’d hope he had figured something out and decided to change the oil by now. Nice plug though.BITOG is known and respected all over the place: This fellow talks about selecting oils and why / what he looks for and likes.
He even covers a subject some of us discussed here very recently about major oil companies changing their formulas for whatever reasons.
Have no horse in the race just thought a well thought out and written piece some may enjoy.
If all you want to do is choose a decent oil for your car's GDI or T/GDI engine, with as little fuss as possible, just limit your oil choices to any top-shelf oil made by a major manufacturer that meets your car manufacturer's requirements and is marketed for GDI and T/GDI engines. You won't find any bad oils among the top-shelf products made by major manufacturers like Pennzoil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Mobil, Total, and Valvoline. These companies have too much to lose to put out bad oils, especially when it comes to their flagship products.
One good place to do research (as well as engage in discussions and arguments with people who really take oil seriously) is at Bob is the Oil Guy, an online forum and Web site dedicated to oil and other closely-related automotive topics. If you're really, really into oil, I suggest you sign up. It's a great place to hang out with other oil geeks. I wonder if he even knew about HPL? or Amsoil? or meant to cover ONLY OTS oil offerings?
Oh well it is His loss if he ignores two of the best available to folks.
motoroilbasics.com - This website is for sale! - motoroilbasics Resources and Information.
This website is for sale! motoroilbasics.com is your first and best source for all of the information you’re looking for. From general topics to more of what you would expect to find here, motoroilbasics.com has it all. We hope you find what you are searching for!motoroilbasics.com
Lets HOPE! Maybe by now, he has learned all about the Amsoil and the HPLs out there.It’s been almost two years since the OP. I’d hope he had figured something out and decided to change the oil by now. Nice plug though.
One that sells for $22.97 a Jug or less!For 5k OCI I would use Kirkland/Supertech. Dexos gen3 approved, what else do you need from oil?
One that sells for $22.97 a Jug or less!
I look at it today when I was at Costco its back up to $38 and change for two jugs!I got 2 boxes when it was on sale a week ago, comes to $16 for 5qt. Mobil1 EP for $32 will not be twice as good, especially if your OCI is 5k