Oil Suggestions for a new car
- Thread starter MaxdOut
- Start date
I would run an Xw-30 or Xw-40 in a turbo engine.
Lubricant manufacturer here. Normally the choice between 0W20 and 5W30 would depend on climate where in hotter climate, use 5W30, colder climate use 0W20 blah blah.. However another point to note is the engine manufacturers' method of meeting modern day requirements of fuel economy/efficiencies (FE).
Americans love their big cars and engines, and in order to maintain the engine size but yet improve FE, the main method was through DGI. This in turn created the LSPI phenomenon which can be mitigated by using a minimum grade of API SN Plus, or the other OEM oils that provides LSPI protection, so no worries there.
Japanese FE technology on the other hand, is mainly through making everything more compact, reducing the car's weight and modifying the engine in some way (making it smaller, remodelling it etc.). Essentially, this means that the internals of the engine might have tighter tolerances (less spaces for oil to flow) and that is why they are recommending the thinner 0W20 (as compared to 5W30) oil to make sure that the oil gets into the tight spaces they need to get into, to protect your engine.
On the Mobil ESP X2, it is green due to a specific additive booster that needs to be added for the VW 508/509 specification. VW 508/509 is not backward compatible with other VW grades so I guess main purpose is so workshops/dealers do not accidentally pour the wrong oil into engines. So if you don't need the VW 508/509 spec, just go for other oils, no point spending more money on something you don't require.
Americans love their big cars and engines, and in order to maintain the engine size but yet improve FE, the main method was through DGI. This in turn created the LSPI phenomenon which can be mitigated by using a minimum grade of API SN Plus, or the other OEM oils that provides LSPI protection, so no worries there.
Japanese FE technology on the other hand, is mainly through making everything more compact, reducing the car's weight and modifying the engine in some way (making it smaller, remodelling it etc.). Essentially, this means that the internals of the engine might have tighter tolerances (less spaces for oil to flow) and that is why they are recommending the thinner 0W20 (as compared to 5W30) oil to make sure that the oil gets into the tight spaces they need to get into, to protect your engine.
On the Mobil ESP X2, it is green due to a specific additive booster that needs to be added for the VW 508/509 specification. VW 508/509 is not backward compatible with other VW grades so I guess main purpose is so workshops/dealers do not accidentally pour the wrong oil into engines. So if you don't need the VW 508/509 spec, just go for other oils, no point spending more money on something you don't require.
You're a lubricant manufacturer and you're telling us that it's due to tighter "tolerances" and the oil molecules need to get into the tight spaces?
Okay...
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Someone made a new troll account it seems.
mfg will do anything what will decrease emission footprint. thin eco oil is one of them.
literally they shave off each gram of co2... that´s why some cars get aluminum hood, no (fullsize) spare wheel, and many non critical parts are replaced by plastic..
OP: i would run my magic elixir on that NISSAN and do NOT bring it to the dealer for OC#1 if possible.
First try to go 2K mile on the break in oil.
Run Valvoline Advanced 5w20
Substitute 1 litre with Magnatec 5W30.
No you will have a near marginal 30 grade - and the Magnatec and Valvoline work wonders together.
NO on will ding you for not running a 0W.
But since this is late in the thead, you likely already changed you oil.
I'm sure you'll be fine if you drive under 2000 rpm and barely run it into 1atm boost.
First try to go 2K mile on the break in oil.
Run Valvoline Advanced 5w20
Substitute 1 litre with Magnatec 5W30.
No you will have a near marginal 30 grade - and the Magnatec and Valvoline work wonders together.
NO on will ding you for not running a 0W.
But since this is late in the thead, you likely already changed you oil.
I'm sure you'll be fine if you drive under 2000 rpm and barely run it into 1atm boost.
True, by the way multigrade oils are required to be graded, but for many of us, winter performance
means a couple weeks of cold starts around 0degF +/- which is well above -22degF.
Here a high vi would be more of an indication of winter performance, than absolute cold pumpability.
But I know what you were driving at. We read too many times, " This 5w30 oil is really thinner than a 0w !".
Well, if it WAS it would have been required by API to be rated as such - unless there was an outside of range misformulation/blend batch.
-Ken
While true about the reasoning for the greenish dye in VW 508 00 oils, the intention to suggest M1 ESP x2 0W-20, as far as I understood it, has not been to pour it into an older VW engine, which VW 502 00 or 504 00 (from 0W-30 to 5W-40) is recommended for, but to use it instead of a less advanced 0W-20, as ESP x2 provides higher HTHS and thus is supposed to deliver somewhat superior protection compared to the majority of 0W-20 PCMOs. If I would want to run a 0W-20, I too would most likely consider M1 ESP x2, as long as it meets the engine manufacturer's requirements.
I will not comment on 'tolerances'. Nuff said by kschachn....
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From what I can find, ESP x2 appears to be really tuned for fuel economy and only has an HTHS of 2.6, while mobil 1 EP 0w20 has an HTHS of 2.7, and it appears mobil1 EP is already low ash at 0.8% so I'm not sure what benefit if any there is to using ESP X2 over EP if you don't own a Euro car that requires the specs it carries for warranty purposes.
Sorry if I was mistaken. So if M1 EP meets the required spec no reason to ponder any longer.
Dealership bulk oil and dealership filters will do just fine. Just change it a little early
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
BITOG is known and respected all over the place: This fellow talks about selecting oils and why / what he looks for and likes.
He even covers a subject some of us discussed here very recently about major oil companies changing their formulas for whatever reasons.
Have no horse in the race just thought a well thought out and written piece some may enjoy.
If all you want to do is choose a decent oil for your car's GDI or T/GDI engine, with as little fuss as possible, just limit your oil choices to any top-shelf oil made by a major manufacturer that meets your car manufacturer's requirements and is marketed for GDI and T/GDI engines. You won't find any bad oils among the top-shelf products made by major manufacturers like Pennzoil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Mobil, Total, and Valvoline. These companies have too much to lose to put out bad oils, especially when it comes to their flagship products.
One good place to do research (as well as engage in discussions and arguments with people who really take oil seriously) is at Bob is the Oil Guy, an online forum and Web site dedicated to oil and other closely-related automotive topics. If you're really, really into oil, I suggest you sign up. It's a great place to hang out with other oil geeks.
I wonder if he even knew about HPL? or Amsoil? or meant to cover ONLY OTS oil offerings?
Oh well it is His loss if he ignores two of the best available to folks.
motoroilbasics.com
He even covers a subject some of us discussed here very recently about major oil companies changing their formulas for whatever reasons.
Have no horse in the race just thought a well thought out and written piece some may enjoy.
If all you want to do is choose a decent oil for your car's GDI or T/GDI engine, with as little fuss as possible, just limit your oil choices to any top-shelf oil made by a major manufacturer that meets your car manufacturer's requirements and is marketed for GDI and T/GDI engines. You won't find any bad oils among the top-shelf products made by major manufacturers like Pennzoil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Mobil, Total, and Valvoline. These companies have too much to lose to put out bad oils, especially when it comes to their flagship products.
One good place to do research (as well as engage in discussions and arguments with people who really take oil seriously) is at Bob is the Oil Guy, an online forum and Web site dedicated to oil and other closely-related automotive topics. If you're really, really into oil, I suggest you sign up. It's a great place to hang out with other oil geeks.
I wonder if he even knew about HPL? or Amsoil? or meant to cover ONLY OTS oil offerings?Oh well it is His loss if he ignores two of the best available to folks.
motoroilbasics.com - This website is for sale! - motoroilbasics Resources and Information.
This website is for sale! motoroilbasics.com is your first and best source for all of the information you’re looking for. From general topics to more of what you would expect to find here, motoroilbasics.com has it all. We hope you find what you are searching for!
motoroilbasics.com
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It’s been almost two years since the OP. I’d hope he had figured something out and decided to change the oil by now. Nice plug though.BITOG is known and respected all over the place: This fellow talks about selecting oils and why / what he looks for and likes.
He even covers a subject some of us discussed here very recently about major oil companies changing their formulas for whatever reasons.
Have no horse in the race just thought a well thought out and written piece some may enjoy.
If all you want to do is choose a decent oil for your car's GDI or T/GDI engine, with as little fuss as possible, just limit your oil choices to any top-shelf oil made by a major manufacturer that meets your car manufacturer's requirements and is marketed for GDI and T/GDI engines. You won't find any bad oils among the top-shelf products made by major manufacturers like Pennzoil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Mobil, Total, and Valvoline. These companies have too much to lose to put out bad oils, especially when it comes to their flagship products.
One good place to do research (as well as engage in discussions and arguments with people who really take oil seriously) is at Bob is the Oil Guy, an online forum and Web site dedicated to oil and other closely-related automotive topics. If you're really, really into oil, I suggest you sign up. It's a great place to hang out with other oil geeks.
Oh well it is His loss if he ignores two of the best available to folks.
motoroilbasics.com - This website is for sale! - motoroilbasics Resources and Information.
This website is for sale! motoroilbasics.com is your first and best source for all of the information you’re looking for. From general topics to more of what you would expect to find here, motoroilbasics.com has it all. We hope you find what you are searching for!
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Maybe by now, he has learned all about the Amsoil and the HPLs out there. It appears MaxdOut got maxed out.
One that sells for $22.97 a Jug or less!
I got 2 boxes when it was on sale a week ago, comes to $16 for 5qt. Mobil1 EP for $32 will not be twice as good, especially if your OCI is 5k
I look at it today when I was at Costco its back up to $38 and change for two jugs!
