Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Lynniecee
Hopefully it will loosen up with more miles but was suspecting some tight clearances with 65 lbs oil pressure with hot engine and was wondering if 5w-20 oil might flow better and work better than 10w-30.
At what RPM with hot oil is the oil pressure at 65 PSI?
Using 5W-20 isn't going to make you have more oil volume flow unless the oil pump is in pressure relief with xXW-30, which I doubt it is. The positive displacement oil pump will just give a hair more oil pressure with xW-30 than with xW-20. I'd run a good non-synthetic 5W-30 and break the engine in relatively easy for the first 1000 miles. 5W-30 will pretty much work in about anything on the road for normal street driving.
~65psi is stock relief pressure for an SBF IIRC.
If so, then sounds like the pump is in relief at idle with hot oil ... went back and saw that he said oil pressure was 65 PSI at idle in the first post. I didn't see anywhere that he said the oil pump was aftermarket (ie, higher output than stock).
I would have to think that the re-builders should know what the rods and crank bearings measured out at.
It sounds to me, (and I could be wrong) that if they don’t know what the rod and main clearances are, they catalog built this engine with a mail order rebuild kit. I can see it now. “High Performance Rebuild Kit for Small Block Ford with high volume oil pump, RV cam and All Name Brand Parts!!! Only $199.99!!!”
Ford V8’s carry pretty high oil pressure. I’ve had many, from freshly built to slap worn out. Even the worn ones will do 10 or 15 psi per 1,000 RPM. To that end, I agree completely with what has been said. There is absolutely no reason to put some whiz-bang oil pump in a Ford, and if you do it needs a stout oil pump driveshaft, from ARP, Milodon or Moroso. Ford’s stock oiling systems serve me well. I’ve even owned a stock long block Cleveland, and bracket raced the thing every weekend plus a bottle or two of nitrous on the street per weekend. And Cleveland’s have a reputation for oiling system issues. Never lost a Ford lower end in my life. I have lost some GM lower ends, mainly Oldsmobiles.
Also unfortunately, we can’t tell how hard it is to turn by hand over the internet. I will say that I diagnosed a Chevy 355 a long time ago that had its ring end gaps touching/binding because they were file fit rings and the “builder” didn’t know what that meant. This thing would drag the starter down really slow and get the battery cables hot enough to melt the insulation off of them. That particular engine was VERY difficult to turn over by hand. Does this Ford sound normal when you start it? Starter drag? Battery cables get hot? If not, it’s probably just some hot rod oil pump doing it’s thing. 65 lbs at idle is high, but I wouldn’t put 20 weight oil in it. Fords love ‘em some 30 weight. I use Xw-30 in all my Fords. All of them. From the ‘47 Ford Tractor (that carries 20 psi at hot idle on the hottest days) to the ‘03 Marauder.
My suggestion for oil on your particular engine, after break in, would be Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 (high zinc), Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30, (as the name implies, high zinc), or for less money, Rotella 10w-30 or Delo 400XLE 10w-30.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Lynniecee
Hopefully it will loosen up with more miles but was suspecting some tight clearances with 65 lbs oil pressure with hot engine and was wondering if 5w-20 oil might flow better and work better than 10w-30.
At what RPM with hot oil is the oil pressure at 65 PSI?
Using 5W-20 isn't going to make you have more oil volume flow unless the oil pump is in pressure relief with xXW-30, which I doubt it is. The positive displacement oil pump will just give a hair more oil pressure with xW-30 than with xW-20. I'd run a good non-synthetic 5W-30 and break the engine in relatively easy for the first 1000 miles. 5W-30 will pretty much work in about anything on the road for normal street driving.
~65psi is stock relief pressure for an SBF IIRC.
If so, then sounds like the pump is in relief at idle with hot oil ... went back and saw that he said oil pressure was 65 PSI at idle in the first post. I didn't see anywhere that he said the oil pump was aftermarket (ie, higher output than stock).
I would have to think that the re-builders should know what the rods and crank bearings measured out at.
It sounds to me, (and I could be wrong) that if they don’t know what the rod and main clearances are, they catalog built this engine with a mail order rebuild kit. I can see it now. “High Performance Rebuild Kit for Small Block Ford with high volume oil pump, RV cam and All Name Brand Parts!!! Only $199.99!!!”
Ford V8’s carry pretty high oil pressure. I’ve had many, from freshly built to slap worn out. Even the worn ones will do 10 or 15 psi per 1,000 RPM. To that end, I agree completely with what has been said. There is absolutely no reason to put some whiz-bang oil pump in a Ford, and if you do it needs a stout oil pump driveshaft, from ARP, Milodon or Moroso. Ford’s stock oiling systems serve me well. I’ve even owned a stock long block Cleveland, and bracket raced the thing every weekend plus a bottle or two of nitrous on the street per weekend. And Cleveland’s have a reputation for oiling system issues. Never lost a Ford lower end in my life. I have lost some GM lower ends, mainly Oldsmobiles.
Also unfortunately, we can’t tell how hard it is to turn by hand over the internet. I will say that I diagnosed a Chevy 355 a long time ago that had its ring end gaps touching/binding because they were file fit rings and the “builder” didn’t know what that meant. This thing would drag the starter down really slow and get the battery cables hot enough to melt the insulation off of them. That particular engine was VERY difficult to turn over by hand. Does this Ford sound normal when you start it? Starter drag? Battery cables get hot? If not, it’s probably just some hot rod oil pump doing it’s thing. 65 lbs at idle is high, but I wouldn’t put 20 weight oil in it. Fords love ‘em some 30 weight. I use Xw-30 in all my Fords. All of them. From the ‘47 Ford Tractor (that carries 20 psi at hot idle on the hottest days) to the ‘03 Marauder.
My suggestion for oil on your particular engine, after break in, would be Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 (high zinc), Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30, (as the name implies, high zinc), or for less money, Rotella 10w-30 or Delo 400XLE 10w-30.
