Oil for Generator that may see use Once every 3 yr

[chefwong]

A pair of EU200i on it's way.

I've hesitated. The last time I had a power outage was just a summer brownout that lasted one night this summer. We get that maybe once or twice in the summer. Aside from that was the great Northeast blackout.

Fast forward today. Just last year, I did all the research and decided on the ~red~ Genny over the Yammy's, but nixed the idea due to space. Then Sandy came, no power, I must have been hauling out bucket after bucket until 3 AM just to keep water under control . We go flooded last year but it was quite manageble as we had 2 pumps going, and was just isolating/scooping up water and pouring it into the tub where I had a Sump running as well.

So, for all your oil guys, I'm totally open on Oil Choice, but what would you recommend for a generator that MAY see 1-2 uses MAX -3-6 hours on average (aka - 6-12 hrs max uses per year) for the GX100 based Honda EU series.

Dino or synthetic.
Syn would be easy choice as I have both 10W60 and 5W40 PUE.
The only dino I stash is PYB 5W30 for the snownblower.

 

[eljefino]

Dino PYB. Gas cleanliness/ stabilization will still be your main concern. Even normally used oil isn't "acidic" in the sense of rotting your engine from the inside out.

why 2 of the same? Going to chain them together? Potentially rob parts in a crisis? I'd be afraid of a weak spot duplicating itself, even though they are robust machines.

 

[tdpark]

i beleive with those gen sets you can chain them together.

 

[Donald]

Amsoil 4-stroke

 

[TallPaul]

Use once every 3 years not good. Generators are supposed to be "exercised" on a regular basis. Look at the manual to see the interval. I am terrible on this and the motorhome generator may go 6 months between exercising. To exercise properly the generator needs a load.

 

[itguy08]

Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Use once every 3 years not good. Generators are supposed to be "exercised" on a regular basis. Look at the manual to see the interval. I am terrible on this and the motorhome generator may go 6 months between exercising. To exercise properly the generator needs a load.


It's easy to keep it exercised. I have an old space heater and hair dryer I keep in the shed with the generator. Once a month when I cut the lawn I fire up the generator and run the heater and dryer outside. When I'm done with the back yard I shut the generator off. It runs it at about 3/4 load (if I also plug in the 500w shop light and box fan), keeps the fuel circulating, and the neighbors probably don't even hear it.

 

[Chris142]

I'd use one of the 15w40's. I had the ST 15w40 in my Peterbilt that saw very little use and after being in the pan for 3 years the oil was still in very good shape.

 

[skyship]

What type of oil and viscosity range should it be according to the manufacturer? If they give a choice choose the widest range multi grade.
Every engine should be run once a month to prevent ring to piston troubles or corroded injector tips. If the fuel tank is not kept topped up and some anti bug additive used, it is best to drain it out every year as a precaution.
A good major brand conventional or semi synthetic should be good and modern oils are good for 3 years unless you leave the generator outside etc. A fully synthetic is slightly better in long term storage terms, but assuming you store it sensibly, I would be more concerned about the fuel and internal corrosion if it is not run once a month.

 

[TallPaul]

BTW, I have Amsoil 10w30 in my Generac V-twin 5500 watt motorhome generator. It has been in there about 1.5 years.

 

[chefwong]

The SB infrequent use can be analogized to my Snowblower Use. The single stage sees much more action...and I MIGHT just fire up the HS928 2 times a year to deal with the 36+ foot high EOD that get's piled up.

Are all *small engines* meant to be exercised more frequently than not ....


I do fire up my pressure washers at least a couple times a year (gas and my 220V electric) to exercise those...

 

[Donald]

Generators could have a problem and need to be re-magnizied if they had not been run for awhile. This is years not months however.

But if your pressure washer or lawn mower does not work, you put off the task and fix it. Wait for parts, etc. If your generator does not work you do what in the cold & dark?

 

[NHGUY]

I would use a synthetic in an air cooled engine for sure.PLus you shouldnt have to change it as often.I've used PP 10w30.

 

[user52165]

I would worry much less about what type of oil you use than the fuel situation. Honda is very tolerant about most any oil.

Ethanol in your gas? Beware. Old gas? Beware. Once every 3 years? Good luck.

Do a search about this whole subject. Check out: RV Net.

It does need to be exercised.......... for the carb. It does need Stabil or something similar. Or it does need to be drained between usage. Honda EU2000 is very prone to carb gum up problems.

Find a reason to use it or it won't be ready when you really need it.

 

[Slick17601]

I believe Honda recommends 10W-30. Amsoil 4 stroke would be my choice and as others mentioned gas stabilization is the issue. Buy the marine Stabil and don't be afraid to double-dose.

 

[chefwong]

I treat the OPE like any OPE when not in use.Drain the carb and run it dry. It is what it is, but we have been a ethanol state for a very long time. I'll thank the corn growers for this one.....

 

[btanchors]

I would use something that has added rust inhibitors the reduce the chance of rusting while the generator is in storage. There are several 10W-30 motorcycle oils available. A couple have mentioned the Amsoil small engine oil - that would work as well.

I've become a big fan of using Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30 in all my 4-cycle small engine equipment. Like motorcycle oils, it contains added rust inhibitors. Unlike motorcycle oils, it contains friction modifiers which probably improves fuel economy a bit. Motorcycle oils don't have this as friction modifiers would inhibit proper clutch operation.

 

[clarklawnscape]

Originally Posted By: Donald

But if your pressure washer or lawn mower does not work, you put off the task and fix it. Wait for parts, etc. If your generator does not work you do what in the cold & dark?

Excellent point, as is why i always advise buying a generator that parts are readily available. Starting it monthly or bi monthly is very much advised imo, and keeping fresh ethanol free fuel in it that is treated with stabilizer that combats ethanol (who knows if we can trust a pump that says ethanol free), ive had bad experiences draing the fuel, not to mention, i want it ready to go, and by ready to go i mean gas and oil etc. As far as oil goes, I personally recommend against synthetic in OPE, if you do use it, check it often.

 

[JimPghPA]

I have been using Sta-Bil foaming cylinder treatment in the spray can after running my Coleman Powermate 6250 Peak/5000 Continuous Watt with Tecumseh 10 HP HM-100 engine, and the Generac IX2000 inverter generators. Pep-Boyd sells the foaming Sta-Bil cylinder treatment in the spray can. After the engine cools I pull the spark-plug and spray the oil in the spark-plug hole. Then pull the rope several times with a clean rag or paper towel over the hole to prevent it from spraying all over adjacent stuff, replace the plug, pull the rope a few times, and then pull the rope gently stopping on a compression stroke so the valves are closed. That way the valve springs are not in full compression, and the cylinder is sealed from collecting condensation moisture out of the air.

I have found that burning off the Sta-Bil foaming oil in the cylinder will foul a spark-plug after 3 to 7 times of doing this. But a replacement plug cost is acceptable for an engine that is reliable on a generator.

I also use Sta-Bil gas treatment for gas storage. After running each generator and letting the engine cool, I drain the carburetor bowl, and spray some WD-40 down the idle air hole just behind the choke plate. I also try to get some WD-40 down the main where it enters the air stream.

I use GC in both gen-sets. GC is known for its low oil consumption, good corrosion protection, and it is good for engine seals. I run the Coleman in the spring and fall if it is not used, and so far have never had to initialize the armature magnetism. I feel comfortable letting the Generac IX2000 inverter unit sit for up to two years with this treatment.

 

[gd9704]

You should be running your generators monthly for 30 minutes or so under load. (I use 2 1500w space heaters on my 5,500w Honda)

I have a note on my calendar for the 1st of the month to do this.

I change my oil every 6 months. SAE 30 in the summer months, Mobil 1 0w-40 in the winter.

Oil is cheap.

Changing your oil is a 15 minute job if you take your time.

Your EU2000i's are little gems. Take care of them, and they'll take care of you!

 

[HerrStig]

I use Castrol synthetic in my splash lube Briggs L head, never had a problem. Makes it easier to start in cold weather. Doesn't weep (as splash lubed engines sometimes do) the way it did on dino. I may switch to T6.