Oil filter help

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A dry sump would be the proper solution for that issue. This has been an issue for a long time if the SBC has enough of an rpm ceiling. I've never heard of it being a problem in street/stock trim. They don't have high volume pumps, just relatively higher pressure (70lb appears to be a common number). The flow at the top end is substantial in comparison to other pushrod engines.

What 2 quarts more would do is, perhaps (thinking), allow you a few more seconds of acceleration without starvation. I'm unsure about it since the cached supply is the same and the choke point is at the same point. The volume pumped would be the same (in a vacuum of theoretical perfection).

I don't think it will serve that need. Figure the 2 added quarts and plumbing being longer circuits inside the engine between the sump and the valve covers. The sump would go down just as fast. The valve covers would fill just as fast in that "surge".

Do you see how I'm reasoning this?
 
Well its going to be somewhat stock. It will probably get a blower once I get it running.

I might be able to make the pan wider.

But I'm still confused, will I be harming anything if I do two remote mount filters? It'll give me a lot more room and easier oil changes.
 
No harm as long as you leave that in block bypass intact.


Alright, long version. Normally ..for the VAST MAJORITY..the line lengths/diameters don't mean squat in the big picture. IF (big "IF") you're going to push higher visc oils over long distances ..AT higher volumes, the lines can come into play in altering flow through that circuit. Again, your in block bypass eliminates any safety issue.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
How about getting a sandwich adaptor so you can keep using the stock chevy filter, and then running plumbing to an external oil cooler? That would add a little capacity and the cooling which I presume you feel you need.

As hot as this rod is are you going to be running it 100% more than a few seconds at a time? In such a light chassis I wouldn't expect any oil overheating problems.


I agree you might want to look at something like this instead, this is for a 370Z but the same concept applies and is very easy to install:

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yo...ottsa-pics.html
 
I feel stupid that I didn't really understand what you guys were getting at.
I did get all of the explanations but couldn't put it together.. but Gary you summed it up pretty good.

I think I'm going to order the dual filter mount and block mount. I can pick up an oil cooler from work.
 
Just curious,
If I were to get the dual remote mount, and get one 2-quart chevy filter, is there a bypass filter that will screw onto the other spot?

There 13/16 thread. I know theres a spin on bypass for the PH8A mount which is in my other thread...
 
I've read that the Amsoil EaBP90 is a 13/16"-16 thread filter, can you confirm this Gary?

Wondering what the gasket diameter is..

No place around me stocks them or else I'd check myself somehow.
 
No. The EaBp's are 1-16. Same as the Cummins full flow. If you wanted to go upscale. An Amsoil BMK22 has would allow you to run a Cummins full flow and EaBP filter side by side. There's also a guy on Ebay that sells an adapter that thread over a 3/4-16 nipple (3/4-16 internal threads - 1-16 external).

In your case, since you've got your in block bypass, you could use any filter that you can thread, bypass or otherwise without fundamental concerns. It would mean some variable state of filtered flow if the remote filters were too fine.

Here's a decent compromise. Here you would get the Ford thread permacool instead of the Chevy.

Part Number: 51641
UPC Number: 765809516410
Principal Application: Nissan UD Trucks
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: By-Pass
Media: Paper
Height: 6.601
Outer Diameter Top: 4.276
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 345
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 12

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

Big can ..no worries about a bypass valve. They have more than enough designed flow capacity ..and probably a butt load of holding capacity. The efficiency rating is well below standard filtration. Not quite that of something like the EaBP, but very respectable.

Again, a Dual Guard BMK22 would be a classy (much better machined piece) upgrade, but at a decent cost increase from your standard Permacool setup.
 
I was thinking about doing that what you listed above..
There isn't much oversize available for PH8A.. Other than what I listed above.

Maybe I'll run the volvo filter that I listed above along with that bypass.
 
No real need for the Volvo filter. You can just run two of those bypass filters ..and probably for a very long time.

It all depends on what your goals are. If it's just convenience and capacity ..then anything will work. If you desire some longer drain deal with better filtering, then go with the higher flow bypass filters.

Costs of replacements could be an issue at some point. While the whole thing is an expense, if you're going to swap out your sump as usual, those filters will be wallet taxing and you won't really get any value out of them.

Depending on your oil selection, you could probably leave the filters intact for a few OCI's and just swap the sump.


You'll find that this gets more complicated as you go along
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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
A dry sump would be the proper solution for that issue. This has been an issue for a long time if the SBC has enough of an rpm ceiling. I've never heard of it being a problem in street/stock trim. They don't have high volume pumps, just relatively higher pressure (70lb appears to be a common number). The flow at the top end is substantial in comparison to other pushrod engines.

What 2 quarts more would do is, perhaps (thinking), allow you a few more seconds of acceleration without starvation. I'm unsure about it since the cached supply is the same and the choke point is at the same point. The volume pumped would be the same (in a vacuum of theoretical perfection).

I don't think it will serve that need. Figure the 2 added quarts and plumbing being longer circuits inside the engine between the sump and the valve covers. The sump would go down just as fast. The valve covers would fill just as fast in that "surge".

Do you see how I'm reasoning this?



Gary has it right.

I don't see any added time (delay before running dry) from this multi-filter approach.

Presuming that the system is still a wet sump design, then the additional fluid is not in the pan, but in the pressure fed side of the lube system. The sump (presuming it's the same pan capacity both before and after the multi-filter install) will still empty in the same amount of time.

Your added volume (filters and hose) are AFTER the pump, and therefore once the pump supply is exhausted, it can no longer feed pressure to the system. This is why people often add higher-capacity pans; to avoide the loss of pressure with more supply oil.

Doesn't matter how much hose you add downstream when the coffee can you're sucking out of is the same size.
 
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Been thinking about this dual remote mount with a full flow and bypass at work a bit.

If I can get a dual 1" remote mount, do you guys see any issues with running an EaBP90 and a Cummins full flow like Gary mentioned?

The guy from Amsoil that I emailed said the following:

"Unless your remote is an AMSOIL mount, I would not recommend adding our By Pass filter to it as it may not function properly. That said the thread size is 1” x 16 and the O ring is about 2 ½” in diameter."
 
Well, I did it ..it worked.

I already had a dual Permacool mounted on my jeep. So instead of redoing it to fasten the Dual Guard, I just took the threaded inserts out of my Dual Guard and took out the 3/4-16 nipples out of the Permacool. I then just spun on the BP110 and the SD Cummins.

Amsoil doesn't sell those nipples separately. That tmvtaylor guy is the best source.

BUT there's no reason to buy two of them. You can use any filter you please in the full flow position.
 
Okay Gary,
I ordered the Trans-Dapt 1222. It's a dual remote filter kit with a spin on adapter for a small block Chevy. The local parts place couldn't get Perma Cool. Soo, I got the Trans-Dapt. Same thing really.

I'm going to get an adapter from tmvtaylor on eBay, and use a EaBP90(right size correct?)

For the full flow, I'm going to use the Volvo filter I mentioned, the 51333. I have one on order.

What's the mileage rating on the EaBP90? Its somewhat expensive at $50 locally. But I can manage that.

Oh, also. I have a question about AMSOIL. I looked up the recommened oil for the 1984 Chevy Camaro 5.0L, which is what I pulled the engine from, and it has a few different viscosities listed for various temps.
It says 10W-30 is preferred, but at the top it listed the AMSOIL Signature 0W-30. Can I run this oil or should I use the 10W-30? This truck will only be used from the summer until fall. No winter.

What I'm going for with this project is better filtration, engine longevity, and extended OCIs. I drive a decent amount. Since Feburary 1st of this year, I've put 12000kms on my 05 Blazer. However once I graduate school in a few days I probably won't be putting so many kilometers on my truck.

Thanks for your help Gary.
 
Hmmm.... If I'm reading this right, you may have the right block adapter but the wrong filter mount. If this is for the chevy filters, neither your adapter for the EaO nor your Volvo filter will work.

1222 - Trans Dapt Performance Products Oil Filter Relocation Kits Details

Relocation Kits



Specific Applications
# 1968-76 Buick V6
# 1991-96 Buick V8 LT1

# 1990-93 Cadillac V8

# 1962-89 Chevy L6
# 1965-2005 Chevy big block V8
# 1968-2000 Chevy V8 except 1988-2002 small block V8 4WD truck, 1990-2002 Corvette*, 1998-2002 Camaro, and 1994-96 Caprice/Impala SS

# 1964-76 Pontiac L6
# 1978-97 Pontiac with Chevy V8s

# 1968-89 GMC L6
# 1968-98 GMC V8

# 1966-76 Olds L6
# 1991-92 Olds V8

*An exception to the exception: This kit does work on 1990-91 5.7L Corvettes that have the numeral 8 as the eighth character of their VIN#


BUT ..it also says THIS above it:

Kits include:
# Oil filter bypass adapter
# Remote oil filter bracket with 1/2'' NPT-threaded inlets/outlets
# 2 fully-assembled 30'' neoprene hoses with fittings
# Mounting hardware
# Detailed instructions

Available separately also, the Remote Oil Filter Bracket accepts 3/4"-16 spin-on filters, for example, Fram PH8A and HP1.

This tells me that you're not getting that.
 
It might be the universal. That will have all the nipples for doing everything.

For example, the universal block adapter is an adapter for the Ford/smaller sized filters and a separate ring w/additional gasket to fit the Chevy.

So, I may have spoken prematurely.


I ordered the Chevy mount "mistakenly on purpose" since, at the time, Chevy was the only filter I knew that came in the MEGA BIG filters. Never knew there was a Ford/Mopar counterpart. No in block bypass and no bypass on the filters. Thank goodness they were big and dual.


Knowing what you want without knowing enough can be dangerous
grin2.gif


After a short time here I swapped the Chevy out for one of the Ford mounts that I had sitting around (same mounting holes) and used that for the Amsoil 1-16 theads for the Bp-110 and Cummins full flow fitment.

A bit further along here, I also figured out that the Cummins full flow doesn't have a bypass valve either.

Most of my education has come the hard way. I guess it was cheaper than tuition even if I booted one now and then.
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