Oil Cooling vs Oil Oxidation

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EyesofThunder

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I run Amsoil 0W20 and at around 25k-30k the oxidation level starts an uptick. Sure, the oil is done at 25k, but if I kept the oil a little cooler, (no factory engine oil cooler) would that help keep the oxidation down?

There is a factory oil cooler (coolant) that is available on the truck version of my engine, so it is something I am pondering.

First I am going to install an oil temp gauge, but I have no place in the car to mount it. But that is going to be done first. Probably mount it underhood.
 
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There is a temperature that is optimal for engine life. There is also a temperature that is optimal for oil life.

They are not the same temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: EyesofThunder
I run Amsoil 0W20 and at around 25k-30k the oxidation level starts an uptick. Sure, the oil is done at 25k, but if I kept the oil a little cooler, (no factory engine oil cooler) would that help keep the oxidation down?

There is a factory oil cooler (coolant) that is available on the truck version of my engine, so it is something I am pondering.

First I am going to install an oil temp gauge, but I have no place in the car to mount it. But that is going to be done first. Probably mount it underhood.


The oxidation is the base oil breaking down.
 
Lexus 1UZ-FE VVTi, 98 Lexus GS400.

It is a small engine compartment, only a 11-12 quart cooling system. Temp gauge is almost always nominal, but I have no idea of the real temp. I would like to track oil temp for a while in the summer and the winter months.

Curious of something. My annual 25k oil change is summer, wonder if oil life would be better if was winter to winter. So when the oil is older and not as fresh, it isn't fighting high ambient temps which bring up the oil temp more than the winter cold does.
 
What are you trying to accomplish.....Permanent oil?
The oil has to run hot enough to evaporate any water accumulation. If you run it much cooler, it will probably start getting acidic, and use up the TBN.

It is all a compromise. An oil change every 25k would seem to be a logical extreme, for an OCI.
 
If the oil is capable of lasting longer with an oil cooler, why not? I put 30k or more miles a year on the car, the conditions are fairly consistent and if there is something I can do practically to do to extend it further, and add the bypass filter and cooler oil (looking at a engine coolant oil cooler), it would be beneficial everywhere.

I like engine coolant oil coolers because they warm up the oil with coolant when the car is cold, and when hot to maintain the temp to a much more consistent oil temp.
 
I have the good for my car commute. Start car, putz through the subdivision for about 1/2-3/4 at 20-25 mph, then get on main road up to 45-50 for about 2 min, always get stuck at light, then go a mile and get on interstate at 70-75 mph for about 7 miles, then get off and take back roads to work at 55-65 mph the rest of the 40 mile commute. It is very consistent, main variable is ambient temp.
 
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Originally Posted By: EyesofThunder
I have the good for my car commute. Start car, putz through the subdivision for about 1/2-3/4 at 20-25 mph, then get on main road up to 45-50 for about 2 min, always get stuck at light, then go a mile and get on interstate at 70-75 mph for about 7 miles, then get off and take back roads to work at 55-65 mph the rest of the 40 mile commute. It is very consistent, main variable is ambient temp.



That is certainly and easy on oil route. I would forget getting more than 25k from the oil. If you're getting 25k miles from the AMSOIL SS then you are getting a great bargain.

How does the engine look through the full hole? Is it still clean? I am a fan of AMSOIL, but I don't think I could ever run any oil 25k miles. My nerves can't handle that. It seems to me it's cheaper to change at 25k than to add extra gadgets to stretch it to 30k

I assume you are verifying oil condition via UOA also? What filter interval are you using?
 
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An oil cooler is never a bad idea,especially if it's water to oil type. They warm the oil via the coolant and tend to maintain a more consistent oil temp.
Here's my take on it. If oil temps can be kept consistent you can use a thinner oil because the oil never heats up enough to compromise the oils film strength.

Jmo though.
 
The oil flinging out of the big end is going to be 25-30C (50F) higher than the bulk temperature in the sump, atomised, and being flung into the hot gasses that are blowing past the rings.

These gasses are hot, contain all sorts of nasties (NOx, CO) that are highly reactive.

That's where the damage is taking place, not the "oil level" at sump temperatures (very little surface area for the couple of quarts volume).

Add a cooler if you want, but the mechanism is still there.

And as Clevy said, get it right, and you can possible drop a grade.
 
I'm at 0W20 now, not sure if I could even conceive of thinner.... (-5W20? lol....)

Ill probably dig up the stuff for an oil cooler, just makes me feel better.

Dream oil system would be what I have now, plus cooler plus bypass filter to keep it as clean as possible. I would be content with a 10 quart system overall and then do oil analysis to see how long it would go. Look at a semi, massive sumps and very long oil drains.

I'd love to monitor oil temps coming off the crank, I think only way I can now is to monitor it at the inlet of the filter. Which is just after the pump from the sump. So not going to see the high peaks.
 
I like the way you're thinking-altho 25k miles is more than I could do (old guy). My problem is that I have reliability/trust issues with radiator/heater core/intercooler type hardware=too much down side when a failure mixes your fluids-good luck!
 
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