of these two, which would you choose.

[Zukinut]

Besides the 4wds I also have lots of trailers as I own a construction company. it's time to beak them all down and clean and repack. I figure while I'm doing the cruiser I'll just do everything.

Of these two which would you choose and why.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/221-moly-ultra.html

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/synthetic-multi-purpose-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GLCCR-EA

Thanks again for all your time and help.

Will

 

[Ramblejam]

Will,

You've asked the same question many times now. How have you decided on these two? #221 is an aluminum complex, high-dose MoS2. Amsoil is calcium sulfonate and no moly.

 

[Kamele0N]

Calcium sulphonate grease... Due to its thickener with inherent EP capabilities

 

[CT8]

Schaeffers products are [heavier duty] would it make a difference? I don't know

 

[Revving2Redline]

Schaeffer.I worked at a charter bus station and all the MCI where running it. I like their no [censored] marketing.

 

[claluja]

Used amsoil synthetic water resistant grease (calcium sulfonate) in my last trailer bearings repack. Have put 3K miles on so far, and hubs coolest I've ever felt them. I do saltwater dips. Don't know anything about the two greases you mentioned, other than this.

 

[Zukinut]

I base these two from what I've read on here and other places. Lithium is great for the buggy because I change it frequently and if it gets subject to water it doesn't matter because it's a trailer queen.

The cruiser doesn't do as much hardcore stuff but it has to be able to do it and make the drive home. I've had lithium mix with water and lost a bearing on the drive home.

I dont want to run two different types of grease, in the same general location.

Today, After seeing what happened to my bearings and the spindle after running palladium, I understand why moly can be bad in wheel bearings.

So I guess that leads me to try the amsoil.

I apologize for all the posts, btw.

 

[Ramblejam]

No need to apologize, Will. It's just that you're going to keep getting various opinions without having developed the knowledge to evaluate their worth; could be based in sound data/reasoning, or just the thoughts of someone that are nothing more than what they've heard/brand biases/etc.

What happened to your bearings/spindles, and how have you determined that moly was at fault?

 

[Zukinut]

I was running palladium. It broke down due to heat and oozed out the bearing lost preload. That I do know to be fact. The bearing has also spun in the race to the point that polished the bearing id to a mirror like finish. It ate some material off of the spindle so a new bearing no lifer fits tight.

I also think that the extra thick high moly grease caused the rollers to slide and not roll and that started the issue that caused the excess heat and thus thermal breakdown of the palladium.

I know that I don't want to use a lithium base. I'd like to run a schaeffers grease but they don't offer a non moly that i saw. And if my suspicions are true I don't think I wanna do the moly thing again. My cruiser is no longer full time 4wd so moly in the birfields isn't as big of a deal.

Again, I'm just learning.

 

[Ramblejam]

Not a thing wrong with learning; we all started somewhere.

Palladium certainly isn't a low-temp grease, and I question the correlation/causation here. Regardless, if you're adamantly against lithium (not going to question further...no interest in convincing you), have you considered Deere SD Polyurea? According to them, it's their best multi-purpose grease, and guys are using it in everything now. Inexpensive, and available at your local dealer.

 

[Zukinut]

I'm not against lithium. Not at all. I just noticed that in all the "water resistant" or "water proof" greases, that lithium wasn't the base.

I like the palladium. It was still somewhat slick and tacky in one bearing, but in the hub cavity it had hardened some and cracked like an old dried out tub of grease. And one bearing had very little grease left. It has also puked almost all of it out if the knuckle. It does not have a leaky axle seal which is usually the cause of that.

The jondeere grease is interesting.

 

[Zukinut]

Ramblejam, how important is the Timkens load specification? The Jd grease is easily available to me, has everything I need but has a much lower Timken than the amsoil, I'm not sure that matters that much in what I'm using it for.

Also, in the compatibility charts on polyurea mixes with [censored] near everything and one doesn't mix with hardly anything. How do I know which one this is?


Again, just trying to learn.

Thanks
Will

 

[buck91]

Originally Posted By: Zukinut
Ramblejam, how important is the Timkens load specification? The Jd grease is easily available to me, has everything I need but has a much lower Timken than the amsoil, I'm not sure that matters that much in what I'm using it for.

Also, in the compatibility charts on polyurea mixes with [censored] near everything and one doesn't mix with hardly anything. How do I know which one this is?


Again, just trying to learn.

Thanks
Will



IIRC, the deal with the Timken OK load is more of a "good enough or not" rating. In order to be rated for chassis/bearing applications, I think that it has to be at least 40... But I'm not very sure on that and would love to hear more.

The thing I do know is that every time this comes up, people are always reminded no to judge a grease solely on one spec.