New Member-with 99 Buick- Dexcool Question?

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Hi, and thanks for letting me join the forum. My name is Dave, and I am something of a car guy, but the subject of this post is my 1999 Buick Park Avenue. It has 210k miles, and still runs out good, but the lower intake manifold gasket has failed. I'm replacing the gaskets myself, and haven't had any trouble so far (I've got the intake out, and am preparing to start reassembly), but my biggest question is this; The car has gone 210k miles with nothing but dexcool (lasted flushed in 2006 when the car had about 165k on the clock), but I've read several negative posts about dexcool, and have heard several dealership mechanic friends of mine have negative opinions on dexcool. So, I'm wondering whether or not to use Dexcool? If I don't, what do I have to do to make sure the system is clean enough for something like G-05?

Thanks, Dave
 
Flush until you can't see any more reddish tinge to the flush water. Also, using a cooling system flush after everything is buttoned up may be a good idea.

Also, a lot of guys use Prestone All-Makes in their 3800's. It's very similar to Dex, but not exactly the same, and does not have the problems of real Dex.
 
If you've gone 210,000 miles without issue using Dexcool, why change?

By the way, are you sure the upper manifold is not leaking antifreeze through the EGR stove pipe cooling passages? Might want to get a Series 3 upper manifold or the Dorman replacement. With either of those and good gaskets, she should be good to go to 300K!

Which gaskets are you using?
 
The Upper Intake was replaced at 165k by a GM dealership, so it has an AC-Delco Manifold on it. It wasn't just leaking coolant, it was spraying oil and coolant all over the engine compartment, via the serp. belt.

I bought Felpro gaskets, and am planning on using Permatex Blue for sealer. I already bought the Dexcool from Walmart, but I can return it if necessary. I'm just scared that I wont be able to get all of the Dex out of the system, especially the heater core, and therefore when it mixes with the G-05, it would sludge up. I am a little scared of "Universal" coolants, but I guess I could use it.

Dave
 
PS, I also have a 99 Camaro, with its original Dexcool in it. It just turned 150k, (I purchased it recently), so I'm planning a coolant change, and am having the same concerns about using Dexcool in it as in the Buick. I plan on doing the same thing to both, so I only have to keep one brand of coolant around (other than regular green for my older vehicles).

I'm planning on using some Xerex super flush in the Buick when I get her back together, does anyone have any experiences with it?

Oh, one more thing, should I put Bars Stop Leak tabs in the Buick?

Dave
 
Here's what I do to flush: take the thermostat out and reinstall the housing (so you'll get full flow through the system). With the radiator drain open, stick your garden hose in the radiator opening, then start the engine with the heat on full blast. Adjust the water flow so it stays right to the top of the rad and just let it flush like that for a couple minutes. If you want, you could also do a 1 minute flush with distilled water afterwards so distilled water will be left in the block. Maybe use the Xerex flush before you do all this, but I don't think it's necessary if scale and deposits are not in the cooling system.

I would not immediately use the sealing tabs. Wait a month or so and see if it loses coolant. If not, you should be good to go.

With the gaskets and manifold replaced, get a new thermostat and rad cap on there and I wouldn't worry a bit about Dexcool.

The radiator in my Dad's truck (220,000 miles) and in my moms Olds 88 (170,000 miles) are both spotless inside using Dexcool - no sludging or grime that people complain about.

The biggest culprit is making sure the cooling system is tight - no gasket leaks and a healthy radiator cap so the cooling system stays full and is not subject to air (from what I've read - that's why GM put out several TSBs for radiator caps in relation to Dexcool).

But if you want to go G-05, it should be good to go after flushing like I described. Just add full concentrate at half the system capacity since only water will be left in the block.
 
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G-05 will last just as long as Dexcool, will cool just as well. It'll prevent corrosion just as well, and best of all- it doesn't turn to sludge.
 
Okay, well, since I've already bought the Dexcool, I guess I'll run it. As far as the new Radiator cap, should I get a Stant or ACDelco?

Dave
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Why does my Decool not turn to sludge onion?


Because you're lucky?

I was similarly lucky when I bought an '01 Lumina with 159K a few years ago. The Dexcool was a nice, transluscent red... and the cooling system was squeaky clean. In my experience, Dexcool works very well- in those cases where it does not turn to sludge.

However, I've seen dozens of GM's in which the Dexcool has turned into a mud-colored sludge. If you don't believe me, just do a yahoo image search on "dexsludge". Look up the GM class action lawsuit over Dexcool. Go down to your local used car dealer, and check out a dozen GM's over 5 years old with at least 80k miles... half of them will be sludged. That's been my experience.

There are lots of theories out there as to why Dexcool turns to sludge. The most common (and I think likely the most correct) theory is that this sludge forms when air is introduced into the cooling system. Some nimrods even go so far as to call this proof that Dexcool isn't the problem.

And I'll agree with them in that under PERFECT conditions, Dexcool works very well. But real life is rarely perfect. Introduce air from an otherwise undetectable leak, overheat the system a couple times, or dare to mix in anything else that isn't Dexcool... and your cooling system will quickly look like this one.

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/images/dexmud31.jpg

And while I'll readily agree that none of the aforementioned adverse conditions are Dexcools "fault", I've never heard of any other coolant congealing into this nasty form of sludge- only Dexcool. And since alternatives exist that WON'T turn into sludge at the first minor imperfection in your cooling system... I really don't understand why any informed consumer would knowingly put that GM Kool-aide into their vehicle.

Personally, I prefer G-05. It's a bit harder to find than Dexcool or the universal coolants (which are basically yellow dexcool), but it's a long-life coolant with all the benefits of dexcool and none of the drawbacks. It's a HOAT coolant, using a different OAT additive than Dexcool (or universals) and also a small amount of silicate (hence that "H" for 'hybrid'). It lasts as long as dexcool, doesn't attack polymer seals like dexcool, cools just as well, and best of all- doesn't turn to sludge.

Ford and Mopar have used G-05 in their vehicles for years, without even a fraction of GM's cooling system troubles.

And for what it's worth, every "all-makes" coolant that I've investigated (including Prestone and Super-Tech) uses the same OAT additive as Dexcool. I.e., it's similar enough that I personally wouldn't use it- not when a better alternative is readily available.
 
About the radiator cap: I think either brand will work fine.

Supposedly, some GM radiator caps contributed to the Dex-sludge problem. And my understanding of the situation is that some vehicles- particularly S-series pickups- came with caps that did not have spring-assisted overflow check valves. The replacements had a spring-assist.
 
Does anyone have any experience with NAPA's Balkamp radiator caps? The reason I ask is, I think I've got a new one lying around somewhere that should fit the Buick.

Dave
 
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Why does my Decool not turn to sludge onion?


Because you're lucky?

I was similarly lucky when I bought an '01 Lumina with 159K a few years ago. The Dexcool was a nice, transluscent red... and the cooling system was squeaky clean. In my experience, Dexcool works very well- in those cases where it does not turn to sludge.

However, I've seen dozens of GM's in which the Dexcool has turned into a mud-colored sludge. If you don't believe me, just do a yahoo image search on "dexsludge". Look up the GM class action lawsuit over Dexcool. Go down to your local used car dealer, and check out a dozen GM's over 5 years old with at least 80k miles... half of them will be sludged. That's been my experience.

There are lots of theories out there as to why Dexcool turns to sludge. The most common (and I think likely the most correct) theory is that this sludge forms when air is introduced into the cooling system. Some nimrods even go so far as to call this proof that Dexcool isn't the problem.

And I'll agree with them in that under PERFECT conditions, Dexcool works very well. But real life is rarely perfect. Introduce air from an otherwise undetectable leak, overheat the system a couple times, or dare to mix in anything else that isn't Dexcool... and your cooling system will quickly look like this one.

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/images/dexmud31.jpg

And while I'll readily agree that none of the aforementioned adverse conditions are Dexcools "fault", I've never heard of any other coolant congealing into this nasty form of sludge- only Dexcool. And since alternatives exist that WON'T turn into sludge at the first minor imperfection in your cooling system... I really don't understand why any informed consumer would knowingly put that GM Kool-aide into their vehicle.

Personally, I prefer G-05. It's a bit harder to find than Dexcool or the universal coolants (which are basically yellow dexcool), but it's a long-life coolant with all the benefits of dexcool and none of the drawbacks. It's a HOAT coolant, using a different OAT additive than Dexcool (or universals) and also a small amount of silicate (hence that "H" for 'hybrid'). It lasts as long as dexcool, doesn't attack polymer seals like dexcool, cools just as well, and best of all- doesn't turn to sludge.

Ford and Mopar have used G-05 in their vehicles for years, without even a fraction of GM's cooling system troubles.

And for what it's worth, every "all-makes" coolant that I've investigated (including Prestone and Super-Tech) uses the same OAT additive as Dexcool. I.e., it's similar enough that I personally wouldn't use it- not when a better alternative is readily available.


It's got to be something more than air because I successfully ran Dex Cool for years in a car with one of those pressurized overflow tanks where there is air in it.

What I suspect is causing the sludge is that when the cooling system depressurizes after cooling off, it sucks in a small amount of motor oil and then that oil gets whipped up into a sludge when the car is running.
 
Snap...DEXSLUDGE


HeaderTankMud.jpg
 
Is that sludge or residue from GM 'sealing tabs' ? I have seen radiators where Barsleaks was used and it looks like that. GM sealing tabs are basically the same as Barsleaks.
 
Funny that picture looks similiar to my firbirds problem,everything near the overflow was full of [censored].I think its all happening in the overflow then getting sucked back in when it cools off.Look at that picture closely you will notice all that sludge is near the rad cap opening.
 
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