I had a Autozone Duralast Rebuilt Alternator installed when away from home (it was the only one I coould get in 24 hours)last week. Since it was installed the battery light comes on when the 1993 BMW 318i is idling or running below 1400 rpms. The alternator has the right amps and I've checked the battery and the tightness of the alternator belt. Any comments on how often rebuilt alternators are defective would be welcome. Would I be any better off getting a Bosch rebuilt alternator or some oter brand ? Any comments are most appeciated.
New autozone alternator problem
- Thread starter KevinV
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JHZR2
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Id only go bosch rebuilt. These alternators dont put out high voltage as-is.
Its a 1993 . Cables wear out too. Check the resistance of the battery and alternator cables and for corrosion on the ends or them. Also ,just because the belt is tight means nothing. They wear and do not make full pulley contact.
By the way, any rebuilt part is suspect.Usually they only replace a few parts even though duralast supposedly replaces everything. Might have a bad regulator.
You can only check the amps under load too so its hard to say , you have the right amps.. You can check volts . Should be about 14.
By the way, any rebuilt part is suspect.Usually they only replace a few parts even though duralast supposedly replaces everything. Might have a bad regulator.
You can only check the amps under load too so its hard to say , you have the right amps.. You can check volts . Should be about 14.
I have used a autozone rebuilt alternator on my 2001 civic. I am on my 4th one in the last 2 years. They always cover the unit on warranty but I will not be using one again if this one dies. Sounds like you have a defective alternator. They should load test it on the car and replace it. I would trade it if possible for another brand. Sounds like your headed down the same road i am on and its not a good one.
Originally Posted By: KevinV
Any comments on how often rebuilt alternators are defective would be welcome.
Your rebuilt Alternator was rebuilt with the cheapest parts available and any parts that checked out marginal or better got reused.
I wouldn't be suprized if the defective rates on rebuilt Alts and starter is 20% or higher.
Any comments on how often rebuilt alternators are defective would be welcome.
Your rebuilt Alternator was rebuilt with the cheapest parts available and any parts that checked out marginal or better got reused.
I wouldn't be suprized if the defective rates on rebuilt Alts and starter is 20% or higher.
Autozone alts....as the NBA slogan used to say, "It's Fan-tastic!"
I ran through 3 of them in 1.5 years. Buy new or OEM re-built.
I ran through 3 of them in 1.5 years. Buy new or OEM re-built.
Check the voltage at the battery (using a DVM) and at the alternator with the engine running fast idle. Should be very close to 14V. Same or very very close at battery and output of alternator.
I would go to a local shop that does rebuilding and let them check it out. Some have an oscilloscope they use to look at the waveform of the voltage.
Some of the cheap rebuilds only replace what they think is broken. For example, a good rebuild had a new diode bridge and a cheap rebuild they will replace individual diodes. I believe the internal output of the alternator is 3 phase AC so they need a 6 diode bridge to get it to DC.
I would go to a local shop that does rebuilding and let them check it out. Some have an oscilloscope they use to look at the waveform of the voltage.
Some of the cheap rebuilds only replace what they think is broken. For example, a good rebuild had a new diode bridge and a cheap rebuild they will replace individual diodes. I believe the internal output of the alternator is 3 phase AC so they need a 6 diode bridge to get it to DC.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
KevinV said:
The AutoZone premium rebuilt alternator we put in our Windstar hasn't failed us yet.. it's been 50,000 miles and 4 years since I installed it.
However, I'm not a big fan of how much "flicker" I can see in the lighting sometimes. I suppose I could take it in and have it tested, but, I don't really want to deal with that rude store unless it totally [censored] out on me.
Next time, it's NAPA or Advance Auto for sure.
However, I'm not a big fan of how much "flicker" I can see in the lighting sometimes. I suppose I could take it in and have it tested, but, I don't really want to deal with that rude store unless it totally [censored] out on me.
Next time, it's NAPA or Advance Auto for sure.
failure rate on rebuilt alts/starters is fairly high. I always get the best I can. on my LH I actually bought a new starter from the dealer ($300 !!) because you have to lift the motor up a few inches to replace the starter. grrrr.
ls1mike
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I have an Autozone unit in the Trans Am. The original failed when I busted a power steering line at the track.
The Altenator is at 30,000 miles.
Rebuilt electrical parts are hit and miss from anyone.
I had a bosch rebuilt starter fail 3 times before I got a good in an old Turbo Dodge Daytona I had, and that was a PITA to get at. I have had the worst luck with Napa's stuff.
I say luck because with anything, rebuilt, remanfactured...It is luck.
The Altenator is at 30,000 miles.
Rebuilt electrical parts are hit and miss from anyone.
I had a bosch rebuilt starter fail 3 times before I got a good in an old Turbo Dodge Daytona I had, and that was a PITA to get at. I have had the worst luck with Napa's stuff.
I say luck because with anything, rebuilt, remanfactured...It is luck.
I usually ask to run them on they're test stand before leaving the store. It don't mean everything but I once had one that was locked up straight out of the box. Something was wrong internally. Good thing at the counter I tried to spin it by hand. How does that happen. So since, I always ask.
I go to Napa. I also ask for the lifetime instead of the 1-year.
On starters, I'll hit it up with jumper cable as one last check just before installing, although I still had it checked before leaving the store.
I go to Napa. I also ask for the lifetime instead of the 1-year.
On starters, I'll hit it up with jumper cable as one last check just before installing, although I still had it checked before leaving the store.
I now buy rebuilds from these guys. Not sure if they ship ,but the same 2 guys have been there 20+ years doing the rebuilds. They do not scrimp on parts. You should see the shop. There are thousands of cores and rebuilt units on the shelves. They had an oem unit for my dads 93 allante. Its a 5 hour job to replace. 3 years no failure. Prices are very good too.
http://rwstarters.com/
http://rwstarters.com/
Originally Posted By: kasedian
So, would it be wise to have them test it, before you buy it?
Bingo! While it won't catch things that fail down the road, it will catch the DOA and it will also let you know if the counterguy knows how to conduct the test. After all, it is possible to test your old alternator and make it fail even if it's a good one by doing something wrong on the test.
If it's a tough to replace alternator, the last thing you want is to bring home a DOA and have to do the job again.
So, would it be wise to have them test it, before you buy it?
Bingo! While it won't catch things that fail down the road, it will catch the DOA and it will also let you know if the counterguy knows how to conduct the test. After all, it is possible to test your old alternator and make it fail even if it's a good one by doing something wrong on the test.
If it's a tough to replace alternator, the last thing you want is to bring home a DOA and have to do the job again.
It probably doesn't help you much now, but on my Jaguar's from that era and slightly earlier, the brushes were in a little pack that could be removed with a screwdriver, and replacement brushes were available at almost any decent hardware store for a couple of bucks each.
Brushes are a wear item, eventually they have to be replaced. These new alternators where nothing is user servicable blow.
Ease of maintenance is one of the reasons I hang on to my Xj12. That and the V12.
Brushes are a wear item, eventually they have to be replaced. These new alternators where nothing is user servicable blow.
Ease of maintenance is one of the reasons I hang on to my Xj12. That and the V12.
Too late to edit my last post, but they probably only gave you $10-$20 for your core - that old OEM alternator is far better than the rebuilt you just bought. I'd go buy it back and take it to a local rebuilder and have it rebuilt, if you can't change out the brushes yourself. If the bearing was still good, that's probably all that was wrong with it.
edit: assuming that there was even anything wrong with it, since you still have electrical issues after installation of a replacement part.
edit: assuming that there was even anything wrong with it, since you still have electrical issues after installation of a replacement part.
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Originally Posted By: Win
Too late to edit my last post, but they probably only gave you $10-$20 for your core - that old OEM alternator is far better than the rebuilt you just bought. I'd go buy it back and take it to a local rebuilder and have it rebuilt, if you can't change out the brushes yourself. If the bearing was still good, that's probably all that was wrong with it.
edit: assuming that there was even anything wrong with it, since you still have electrical issues after installation of a replacement part.
+1 on that local rebuilder. When it comes to starters or alternators "Buy/rebuild local".
Too late to edit my last post, but they probably only gave you $10-$20 for your core - that old OEM alternator is far better than the rebuilt you just bought. I'd go buy it back and take it to a local rebuilder and have it rebuilt, if you can't change out the brushes yourself. If the bearing was still good, that's probably all that was wrong with it.
edit: assuming that there was even anything wrong with it, since you still have electrical issues after installation of a replacement part.
+1 on that local rebuilder. When it comes to starters or alternators "Buy/rebuild local".
German cables are minimal in size. So Clean BOTH ends of all cables .
This should e done no matter what the core problem is.
Make sure the alt is grounded well- maybe add a ground wire.
This should e done no matter what the core problem is.
Make sure the alt is grounded well- maybe add a ground wire.
2003 Ford Focus, Factory Alternator failed at the 5 year mark. Replaced with a Napa Pro-Series 120amp (stock is 110) as it was the only unit I could find locally (needed it THAT day). The Napa unity lasted 2yrs and 4 months....just replaced it last week. They honored their warranty, but only after going to 3 stores (unit has lifetime warranty).
If you buy anything from Napa, be VERY wary of whether its a Napa corporate store, or a locally owned Jobber store. Locally owned store quality varies tremendously, and their prices are usually 15% higher or more.
The first Napa unit I had was remaned in China, but this newer unit was remaned in the USA. It doesn't whine like the other one did right out of the box either. Sadly it doesn't include the updated clutch pulley like all the other alts out there do, however it was free under warranty....so I won't complain. PITA to change too, so hopefully it lasts awhile.
When I worked the parts counter at a big name chain store, the failure rates out of the box was maybe 1-2% in my experience. Some of the figures I've seen thrown around in this thread are a bit extreme. Starters were more prone to being DOA then alts were...from what I've seen.
What this really means is you should buy from a place that has a good, easy to use warranty. Autozone uses a computerized warranty system....this makes getting replacement units a breeze. Napa and other stores....not so much.
If you buy anything from Napa, be VERY wary of whether its a Napa corporate store, or a locally owned Jobber store. Locally owned store quality varies tremendously, and their prices are usually 15% higher or more.
The first Napa unit I had was remaned in China, but this newer unit was remaned in the USA. It doesn't whine like the other one did right out of the box either. Sadly it doesn't include the updated clutch pulley like all the other alts out there do, however it was free under warranty....so I won't complain. PITA to change too, so hopefully it lasts awhile.
When I worked the parts counter at a big name chain store, the failure rates out of the box was maybe 1-2% in my experience. Some of the figures I've seen thrown around in this thread are a bit extreme. Starters were more prone to being DOA then alts were...from what I've seen.
What this really means is you should buy from a place that has a good, easy to use warranty. Autozone uses a computerized warranty system....this makes getting replacement units a breeze. Napa and other stores....not so much.
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