Originally Posted By: stockrex
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
I own 3 2014 Hondas, two civics and an accord.
There's a huge thread started by me a while back about Honda and their Oil Life Indicator (OLI) system. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3498755/1
Since your new to BITOG (welcome!) I'll sum up the major camps here for you:
1) Do whatever the manufacturer says - trust the OLI systems and only change it when it says to.
2) Don't trust the OLI's completely and just use them as a guide. (I'm in this camp)
3) Don't trust OLI's at all.
Camp 1 seems to want to squeak every last mile they can from the oil before changing it.
Camp 2 wants to strike some balance between camp 1 and 2.
My neighbor is the head mechanic at a Honda dealership. From conversations with him, threads here on BITOG and my own common sense, here's what I'm doing with my new Honda's:
1) Factory fill - drive it to 20% on the OLI
2) From then on running Mobil 1 extended 0W-20 and a Mobil 1 filter and running it to 30% on the OLI.
Oh, one other thing, I use the "dip stick/smell/feel" method also. Regardless of the OLI, if the oil feels like crud or smells of too much fuel I'm changing the oil.
I know this post will get a lot of heat, but to me oil is cheap, engines are not.
Edited: one Civic is at 12K, changed oil at 40%/6.5K and did a UOA. Lot's of life left on the oil. The two other cars are still on factory fill, one is 30% and the other 40%.
sasilverbullet is on the $$$$.
Here is the problem with Hondas, the fuel dilution kills the oil, the OLM will not measure that.
This is my experience, hence I go 5k with full syn, sometimes I do filter every other oil change.
Well, Honda is presumably aware that this engine has direct injection and that direct injected engines can suffer from fuel dilution and so has programmed the IOLM accordingly.
I wouldn't ignore the IOLM, but if it's a real worry maybe change when it gets to 30% or 40% oil life remaining if it makes for a better night's sleep. This approach will surely lead to a more rational change interval than 6 months/5k regardless of driving conditions.
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
I own 3 2014 Hondas, two civics and an accord.
There's a huge thread started by me a while back about Honda and their Oil Life Indicator (OLI) system. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3498755/1
Since your new to BITOG (welcome!) I'll sum up the major camps here for you:
1) Do whatever the manufacturer says - trust the OLI systems and only change it when it says to.
2) Don't trust the OLI's completely and just use them as a guide. (I'm in this camp)
3) Don't trust OLI's at all.
Camp 1 seems to want to squeak every last mile they can from the oil before changing it.
Camp 2 wants to strike some balance between camp 1 and 2.
My neighbor is the head mechanic at a Honda dealership. From conversations with him, threads here on BITOG and my own common sense, here's what I'm doing with my new Honda's:
1) Factory fill - drive it to 20% on the OLI
2) From then on running Mobil 1 extended 0W-20 and a Mobil 1 filter and running it to 30% on the OLI.
Oh, one other thing, I use the "dip stick/smell/feel" method also. Regardless of the OLI, if the oil feels like crud or smells of too much fuel I'm changing the oil.
I know this post will get a lot of heat, but to me oil is cheap, engines are not.
Edited: one Civic is at 12K, changed oil at 40%/6.5K and did a UOA. Lot's of life left on the oil. The two other cars are still on factory fill, one is 30% and the other 40%.
sasilverbullet is on the $$$$.
Here is the problem with Hondas, the fuel dilution kills the oil, the OLM will not measure that.
This is my experience, hence I go 5k with full syn, sometimes I do filter every other oil change.
Well, Honda is presumably aware that this engine has direct injection and that direct injected engines can suffer from fuel dilution and so has programmed the IOLM accordingly.
I wouldn't ignore the IOLM, but if it's a real worry maybe change when it gets to 30% or 40% oil life remaining if it makes for a better night's sleep. This approach will surely lead to a more rational change interval than 6 months/5k regardless of driving conditions.